Installing my TM Headers this weekend..

[Turdle]

Just double checking your work. Going off "hard knock" memory

 

[SilverBullet]

Just double checking your work. Going off "hard knock" memory

Do you think my cracked intake manifold would have any role in this? It's the front left corner, where the short bolt is. It cracked while I was tightening it all down, and after it cracked I just kept going and didn't remove it at all. I have someone lined up to weld it for me, just didn't have the time yet to pull it back off.

 

[Turdle]

Do you think my cracked intake manifold would have any role in this? It's the front left corner, where the short bolt is. It cracked while I was tightening it all down, and after it cracked I just kept going and didn't remove it at all. I have someone lined up to weld it for me, just didn't have the time yet to pull it back off.

You really need the code to troubleshoot this. It will point you right to the problem I would bet.

 

[techieman33]

Most auto parts stores will check your codes for free. Also just because you have the heat shields on the plug wires doesn't mean they're protected, they could still get damaged.

 

[Cobraguy]

I'm trying to picture your cracked intake manifold and can't get my arms around it. But to me, if you cracked it while tightening a bolt, there must be something underneath it to cause an unlevel surface you are forcing it against. (wire, vacuum line, etc) I think something needs to be looked at very carefully there.

 

[Limited02]

When you say "front left", do you mean on the drivers side front? or looking at it from the front of the vehicle, its on the passenger side front? The 302 I put into my Ranger had the thermostat on the front, passernger side. So I was thinking if that's the case with yours, being that you cracked the intake, you could be getting some coolant ingested into the runners, causeing the motor to foul out? Being that you have run the motor a few times, you could have heat cycled the intake enough to worsen the crack because it's not seated properly and has room to move. Or I could be over my head and maybe you messed up the 02 sensors on accident when installing the headers? Good luck with the fixing!

 

[Turdle]

I'm trying to picture your cracked intake manifold and can't get my arms around it. But to me, if you cracked it while tightening a bolt, there must be something underneath it to cause an unlevel surface you are forcing it against. (wire, vacuum line, etc) I think something needs to be looked at very carefully there.

Nope-
I happened to crack tekman05's when we did his spacer, Mountaineergreen cracked his-
it is something to do with the 1" spacer and 2 gaskets. I think the deformation occurs in these parts. You gotta go slow

When you say "front left", do you mean on the drivers side front? or looking at it from the front of the vehicle, its on the passenger side front? The 302 I put into my Ranger had the thermostat on the front, passernger side. So I was thinking if that's the case with yours, being that you cracked the intake, you could be getting some coolant ingested into the runners, causeing the motor to foul out? Being that you have run the motor a few times, you could have heat cycled the intake enough to worsen the crack because it's not seated properly and has room to move. Or I could be over my head and maybe you messed up the 02 sensors on accident when installing the headers? Good luck with the fixing!

Coolant does not flow in this area of the upper intake.

 

[410Fortune]

I think JT is onto something, only logical thing here is the spark plugs, one of the wires is not seated, or something melted, etc

I drove my 96 for 4 months with one wire ALMOST making it all the way onto the plug..with the fabric heat socks and the metal guards it can be real tricky to get the plug wire to seat fully.
Mine did not set a CEL, but it was running a bit rougher then usual (I have a cam so its not smooth idle) but when I did plug it back in I realized I had been missing some power for 4 months or so!! towing snowmobiles to the mountains on 7 cylinders!! LOL

Fix your cracked manifold and pull your code.
Maybe time to invest in a $30 Actron pocket scan for pulling codes, I love mine for $30 I use it on 4-5 trucks! LOL

code = problem 99% of the time, I have $5 on Mr Jtsmith its a wire/plug issue

 

[techieman33]

I agree too, that little intake leak, if it's leaking at all shouldn't be enough to cause much trouble.

 

[SilverBullet]

I went to O'Reiley's and borrowed a code scanner, I got P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1).

I looked it up at http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171

P0171 OBD-II Trouble Code
Technical DescriptionSystem Too Lean (Bank 1)

What does that mean?Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

SymptomsYou will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

CausesA code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Possible SolutionsPossible solutions include:

In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

I guess I'll try what it says. Although, the vacuum leak kind of scares me. What does downstream of the MAS mean? I guess my cracked manifold, but the crack surely can't be letting that much air in. I had a lot of vacuum lines break, but I fixed them all with rubber vacuum tubing.

 

[rizzjc]

You sure you plugged the MAF back in?

 

[SilverBullet]

Definately.. only because I've done that before and have learned from experience. haha

 

[rizzjc]

Definately.. only because I've done that before and have learned from experience. haha

Yeah, me too. That's why I suggested it.

 

[steveofire]

One thing you can try is get a can of carb cleaner and spray a little over the crack in the manifold and see if it reeves up at all or if you can hear a difference if you can then you need to find a way to seal off that intake leak. Also go back to the parts store and get there reader again and clear out all the codes and see if it comes back.

 

[SilverBullet]

I cleared the code, and I drove about 7 miles. My X still ran bad, but the CEL didn't come on. Then, after sitting for a few hours, the CEL came back on but was flashing and not steady.

 

[Turdle]

The runner which is cracked is #1. I think it is the source of the lean bank one code.
You might try packing the crack with jb weld and let it sit overnite.

 

[SilverBullet]

That's my next step. Crazy to think that such a small crack could have that much impact.

 

[410Fortune]

hmmmm
I would use the carb cleaner method and pin point the leak, maybe you have more then one!

How did the spacer install go? gaskets sit in place? everything fit flush?
Intake tube seated fully?
All vacuum lines plugged in?
EVAC system plugged in?

I too think its odd, maybe your leak is larger then we thought!

flashing CEL is odd??? I think that means stop driving now LOL

 

[TekMan05]

The runner which is cracked is #1. I think it is the source of the lean bank one code.
You might try packing the crack with jb weld and let it sit overnite.

Yup that's what I did, and after I did that and let is sit overnight it was able to sit in and I still check it from time to time. But that week after the header install I had it scanned and came with the smae code. After it was cleared though, it never came back on again. JB weld really can save you hundreds of dollars although at some point when it comes to rebuilding time I will buy another intake manifold and have it painted in a brillant Gold sparkle