Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread | Page 23 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread

Thanks guys, needed a little positive reinforcement.

I've thought about it all day long and I think I agree. All that work and wasted money for maybe a another couple of horses IF that. I've decided to run with what I have. If the going get's rough (I dyno and don't make the numbers I want, Or don't get the times I'm wanting at the track) then I have another option. But really, I do like the sound I have right now. It's not to loud but it still is noticable.

I felt better when I took the truck out and ran a 7.5 0-60 back to back. (Probabaly cuss it's getting cooler here)

I got my "Hump" connector FINALLY! No more Blue Mac connectors. High quality clamps (Not worm gear clamps that chew your connectors up)
 



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Hey Aldive - I've noticed you've had a couple electric fans. Which one do you suggest?
 
























pixelfixed said:
Newb here, hello
can you document those numbers?

You can trust he gained that. He's proven things probably more than anyone else in here with docs.
 






Aldive you should be a road tester for Ford
 


















Okay, I've done A LOT of research on exhaust for my ride and have come up with this...

They make a y-pipe for the sport tracs (Random-tech) I'm gonna buy this bad boy and modify it to work with what I have. I'll cut the flange off and use a stainless magna flow y-pipe. Mock it up on the truck and brace it, then send it to my welder and have him weld er up. The front O2 sensor bungs are in place but no cats. Then continue out of the y-pipe with 2-1/2" stainless pipe. Measure where the rear bung needs to be and have the welder weld this into place as well. I'll be installing three stainless "stack breakers", one after the y-pipe, one before the muffler, and one after the muffler. This will enable me to take the exhaust off if needed, as well as give me a couple of mufflers to choose from that can easily be changed. I'll more than likely run with the Gibson muff and tail pipe but also want a BORLA PRO XS Stainless muffler I can run when I want to be louder. I feel this would make for a very good, quality exhaust. I'm doing this work, not really for a BIG performance gain, but more for the quality. (Stainless steel and good welds)

With out the random-tech y-pipe I'm looking at 244.52 plus welding charges. (NO BENDS in the 2.5 tubing) If I need more play, I'll get a stainless flex connectors.

The magnaflow y-pipe is on the way.

If anyone sees something I'm missing please speak now.
 












That setup with no cats is going to make the truck fall on its face off the line.
 






aldive said:
Do you plan to run no cats?

Sorry - One cat after the y-pipe and before the rear 02 bong.
 






boominXplorer said:
That setup with no cats is going to make the truck fall on its face off the line.

I'll put an adjustable valve on the tailpipe, if there's not enough back pressure for the low end torque, I'll just turn it in until I get it just right. ;) (joking)
 












aldive said:
What do you hope to accomplish with this setup?

Thanks ....

The best of both worlds. More HP and better 1/4 times. I think there's a myth with this Back Pressure thing. Yes, too free flowing will rob you of low end torque, but supposedly yield you better HP on the top end. I've heard of people dueling out and loosing with the 4.0 SOHC. I do believe there is a limit that you're just wasting your time, but remember, I won't be N/A forever. I'm aiming right in the middle. I've already experimented with the rear cats so I know the gain.

So, is it really Back pressure that's the issue or the exhaust pulses? Going to a bigger pipe can make the pulses slow down and give you a negative affect. With that said, there's a limit, and for the 4.0 SOHC, I think 2.5" is that (SINGLE). The cats are not designed to keep back pressure. I'm replacing with one.

The pulse issue is exactly why you see pipes starting off big at the beginning and getting smaller as they go. The reason they get smaller is because the "Heat" begins to dissipate, the smaller pipe speeds the pulse back up in a sense....Correct me if I'm wrong here.
 






I don't think it will make much if any difference. I would recommend spending your time and resources elsewhere.

Why not pursue ( 1) e fan (2) UDPs (3) computer tune(s)? These items are known power makers.
 






Heres something I found that explains....Yes, this is FULL out race stuff, really not for a slightly modded 4.0, but you get the idea.

As the piston approaches top dead center, the spark plug fires igniting a fireball just as the piston rocks over into the power stroke. The piston transfers the energy of the expanding gases to the crankshaft as the exhaust valve starts to open in the last part of the power stroke. The gas pressure is still high (70 to 90 p.s.i.) causing a rapid escape of the gases (blowdown). A pressure wave is generated as the valve continues to open. Gases can flow at an average speed of over 350 ft/sec, but the pressure wave travels at the speed of sound (and is dependent on gas temperature). Expanding exhaust gases rush into the port and down the primary header pipe. At the end of the pipe, the gases and waves converge at the collector. In the collector, the gases expand quickly as the waves propagate into all of the available orifices including the other primary tubes. The gases and some of the wave energy flow into the collector outlet and out the tail pipe.

Based on the above visualization, two basic phenomenon are at work in the exhaust system: gas particle movement and pressure wave activity. The absolute pressure differential between the cylinder and the atmosphere determines gas particle speed. As the gases travel down the pipe and expand, the speed decreases. The pressure waves, on the other hand, base their speed on the speed of sound. While the wave speed also decreases as they travel down the pipe due to gas cooling, the speed will increase again as the wave is reflected back up the pipe towards the cylinder. At all times, the speed of the wave action is much greater than the speed of the gas particles. Waves behave much differently than gas particles when a junction is encountered in the pipe. When two or more pipes come together, as in a collector for example, the waves travel into all of the available pipes - backwards as well as forwards. Waves are also reflected back up the original pipe, but with a negative pressure. The strength of the wave reflection is based on the area change compared to the area of the originating pipe.

This reflecting, negative pulse energy is the basis of wave action tuning. The basic idea is to time the negative wave pulse reflection to coincide with the period of overlap - this low pressure helps to pull in a fresh intake charge as the intake valve is opening and helps to remove the residual exhaust gases before the exhaust valve closes. Typically this phenomenon is controlled by the length of the primary header pipe. Due to the 'critical timing' aspect of this tuning technique, there may be parts of the power curve where more harm than good is done.

Gas speed is a double edged sword as well, too much gas speed indicates that that the system may be too restrictive hurting top end power, while too little gas speed tends to make the power curve excessively 'peaky' hurting low end torque. Larger diameter tubes allow the gases to expand; this cools the gases, slowing down both the gases and the waves.

Exhaust system design is a balancing act between all of these complex events and their timing. Even with the best compromise of exhaust pipe diameter and length, the collector outlet sizing can make or break the best design. The bottom line on any exhaust system design is to create the best, most useful power curve. All theory aside, the final judgement is how the engine likes the exhaust tuning on the dyno and on the track.

Various exhaust designs have evolved over the years from theory, but the majority are still being built from 'cut & try' experimenting. Only lately have computer programs like X-design or high end engine simulation programs been able to help in this process. Practical tools like adjustable length primary pipes and our B-TEC and DynoSYS adjustable collectors allow quicker design changes on the dyno or in the car. When considering a header design, the following points need to be considered:

1) Header primary pipe diameter (also whether constant size or stepped pipes).
2) Primary pipe overall length.
3) Collector package including the number of pipes per collector and the outlet sizing.
4) Megaphone/tailpipe package.
There are many ideas about header pipe sizing. Usually the primary pipe sizing is related to exhaust valve and port size. Header pipe length is dependent on wave tuning (or lack of it). Typically, longer pipes tune for lower r.p.m. power and the shorter pipes favor high r.p.m. power. The collector package is dependent on the number of cylinders, the engine configuration (V-8, inline 6, etc.), firing order and the basic design objectives (interference or independence). The collector outlet size is determined by primary pipe size and exhaust cam timing.
 






aldive said:
I don't think it will make much if any difference. I would recommend spending your time and resources elsewhere.

Why not pursue ( 1) e fan (2) UDPs (3) computer tune(s)? These items are known power makers.

It's all going to be done. I'll probably finish the Electric fan before I finish the exhaust but because I just added the Cat back I was justing planning out, what I think, is the best exhaust I could get. You're probably right, A lot of work for just a small gain. I look at it as a lot of work for a small gain, and a quality exhaust. Not just a cat back that's been welded up under a shade tree. ;)
 



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0-60, you can be the judge...

THIS HAS NO SOUND!!! Sorry, the real video camera will not hold a charge anymore!

Note*The RPM'S were built up to almost 2 grand before releasing the brake. You can see when the RPM'S started building after that so that should be the start of the time.

http://media.putfile.com/0-60-44-55

This should confirm the time's I've posted in here. Let me know what you come up with.
 






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