Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon

[Turdle]

Considering this is a street truck with occasional trail usage,
which gear ratio for 35" tires?
I know I asked before but we got some dis information so I will ask again.

I am at 410 now, speedometer is right on the money.
at 65 mph it is right at 2100 rpm's

Personally I think 488 gears and 2800 rpm's is a bit high for a cruising speed, 456's should put it at about 2500 give or take. Thoughts?

It is all about keeping the torque converter locked on the highway. When it unlocks temps climb and things get tired.

 

[FROADER]

Mark's is at 4.56s and it's as close to stock as you can go. I wanted to go 5.13 in it and would have been fine for street use IMO. You don't need to go fast in these things so gear for the trail.

 

[james t]

4:88's on 35's. Trust me.

Its not like you're gonna be running 80mph on interstate all day. And if you did, 4:88's would be better anyway.

Id recommend 5:13's, but you and half the forum would baulk at me so just stick to 4:88's. :

 

[Turdle]

I guess I am just worried about the 2000 mile round trips. I guess throw fuel economy out the window to save the transmission huh?

 

[kert0307]

Or take the scenic route and keep it around 55-60mph

 

[james t]

4:11's and 35's

4:88's and 35's

5:13's and 35's


Its all gonna get the same fuel milage. You either keep the rpms low with big tires and it bogs and gets 13mpg, or you let it rev with big tires right in the meat of the powerband and it gets 13mpg. My rig was driven from Arizona to AR with 4:88s/35's when Phil first bought it... i drove it back then and IMHO you cant get a more perfect match.

4:11's to 4:56's is a waste of money. Just IMHO.

 

[manaen]

if it is going to do mostly street miles why not just stick with the 4.11's and add some cooling/shift kit to help the tranny. Besides you do have low range for off road right?

I have to agree 4.11 to 4.56 is a waste of money. Either go big or keep what you have. Do you want a street truck or a off road beast unfortunately there are compromises everywhere. Otherwise my truck would have 35's and 12"+ lift but I need to be realistic. What will most of your miles be, and what will compliment that type of driving the most.

 

[Maniak]

2100 rpms seems low for that 4.0 ohv. I knows its a torquey(sp?) motor but it doesn't have that much.

If you see anything resembling a hill (I know, your in Ks) your going to lug if your already at 2100 rpms when on the flats.

Assuming your primary cruising speed is really 65 (and not 60) going up to 4.88's would get you up to around 2400 rpms which is more in the meat of the powerband which means less throttle and less chance of it lugging and unlocking the converter.

~Mark

 

[cybergasm]

347 and 4.88's and 35's

Problem solved :

 

[Turdle]

On Another note
One of my tires was pretty worn, while the other three were like new. Since BFG no longer makes the old MT KO, I used Stic'o's suggestion and found a great deal on 2 pro comp MT's for the matching tread pattern. The tire shop removed all my tires from the wheels last thing last night. Since they had the truck overnight on jackstands, well, yeah.

I took the wheels home and now we have this

And, we now have a very nice >95% tread spare.

 

[cybergasm]

Dood it's totally Tubular man

 

[Happy Jack]

My 94 sport likes 1600-1900 rpm with my M5OD. I have 3.73's and 31's now. When I had the c-5 and stubler in it I ran 33's. I have trouble with heat. With no air dam up front and the TTB I think that air is hitting the TTB and goin up into the engine compartment causing positive preasure. The small grill opening is not enough to cool the engine. With the c-5 (no overdrive) and 33's I was turning 2900 rpm at 60 mph and with the added heat of the trans cooler it ran hot and I had trouble using the AC. And mpg was down at 15. With the M5 and 31's it runs cooler and get over 20mpg. But it goes too fast in low range for really difficult stuff. It did Red Cone and North Fork of the Swan last year but not like I wanted it to.

Thing is the truck is tall and pushing a bunch more air. That makes it work harder and make more heat. Easiest thing to do is to reduce tire size. A bit late now though. That will drop you down a bit and reduce the air you push on the highway and help your engine and tranny out a bit. And help off road.

And another option would be t-case ratio. Either a doubler or after market lower ratio for the trail. That would really help out your truck. I even know where there is a brand new in the box never installed Stubler. Getting crawl ratio to 100 will have you asking why you waited so long.

The only A4LD I have ever had was in an 89 BII. It had 4.11's 30" tires Auburn rear LS and lock right front locker. That thing went everywhere I pointed it..............while the tranny lasted. And would go out to Utah or Colorado and wheel for a week or two and make 20 mpg.

If you decide to do gears I know a guy who is really good.

 

[Trckmagik]

I would be in so much trouble if I had a powdercoater Looks great.

Pull the rear bumper and powder coat it like the front so you match. I love the zero chrome look.

 

[seth247]

Sweet

 

[Turdle]

I would be in so much trouble if I had a powdercoater Looks great.

Pull the rear bumper and powder coat it like the front so you match. I love the zero chrome look.

I have something in the works

Sweet

Hey stranger-How you been?


Well, today My son Matt and I tried installing the sliders. Wouldn;t you know it another lil snag.
Seems the under seat body mounts have a rivet tab on 1st gen, 2nd gen has welded mounts. The rivet tab was just in the way of one of the slider brackets. This issue was the same on both sides.
I needed a root beer float bad about this time so I went to A&W, grabbed a float and meandered over to orscheln farm and home.
There I grabbed some dewalt cut off and grinding wheels, a new face shield replacement, some 7014 welding rods and headed home.



I got back home, got up the nerve ,and went to it.
I placed support under the body bushing bolt, cut the tab and rivets off just the rear side of the center body mounts, and welded the remainder back to the frame.

Now I am too pooped to see if the sliders will fit. Tomorrow

 

[Turdle]

I got some of them awesome light covers also.
Thanks Sue!

 

[Trckmagik]

Looks great.

 

[Turdle]

2nd Gen bolt on sliders will not bolt onto a 1st Gen

I'm just going to sell these and build another set. On to other things now.

I guess we'll need a small step stool for Uwharrie--

 

[gmanpaint]

Rope ladder?

Stirup?

Hideaway steps like under an R/V door?

Drywaller stilts?

Star Trek Beaming capabilities?

Mini trampoline?

OR...........

How about them Shiny Black new looking Nerf bars you have in your shop? Just till you get the sliders made?

 

[techieman33]

could you just cut the mounts of and replace them?