Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon

[kert0307]

(opens can of worms...)

John, I think that if you triangulated the A pillars and the C pillars and just added vertical B pillars to the existing tubes with no triangulation you would be fine. For how much structure is in the roof of that there should be no problem from the force of a side load on the cage where the C pillar is because the roof structure will transfer the force to the A and C pillars. Assuming this cage is tied into something more substantial than the sheet metal of the body.

If it makes you sleep better at night, then by all means throw in some extra tube and triangulate the crap out of the B pillar The one piece tube CDW6212R suggested is the best way to go to put in B pillars too, I think it will be tough to get it in there, but well worth it.

 

[Turdle]

Earlier when I was changing out the radius arms I made a newbie goofball and forgot to disconnect the front axle u joint and vent tube.
When it drooped the vent tube fitting in the axle broke off. Then since the front drive shaft was still connected it bound the pinion up and damaged the pinion seal. Now it drips pretty bad.

I used an easy out, got the broken hollow fitting stub out pretty easily. I took the fitting loose from the hose and discovered about 1/2" of remaining threads. Good thing because it is a 1/2" 20 threaded fitting. Not too common.

I took a die to it and cleaned the threads. Then I put some teflon tape to the threads, and it screwed right in snug.

Now for the pinion seal.

I assume it goes like this. Mark pinion nut and bolt well. Remove nut. Remove pinion yoke. remove seal. tap in new seal, replace yoke, and torque nut down to the marks.


edit
on a side not the bars are all padded. We don't want to bump our heads in an accident now do we?

 

[CDW6212R]

...
on a side not the bars are all padded. We don't want to bump our heads in an accident now do we?

...especially if you don't use seat belts and bounce around the cab.

Is the top about done then, how's it look?

 

[Turdle]

Nope no top yet. We needed the bars installed for strap locations first. So, it goes back tomorrow.

 

[Turdle]

OK, pinion seal replacement was smooth

 

[IZwack]

OK, pinion seal replacement was smooth

That is of course, until you look down and see a pinion shim chillin on the driveway sayin hey girlfriend, whatssss uppp .. don DON DONNN, the plot thickens.

 

[crazyflights]

Way,way better than it was, you will get there.

 

[Turdle]

Well, in an attempt to get this thing to the SMORR meet, dkchrist came over to help work out the coil buckets, shock towers and steering.I stayed up all night but we threw in the towel at about 1:00 pm on Saturday afternoon.
We were actually on the home front, when all my measurement for bar lengths screwed things up.

My tie rod is good, however, I mis calculated length on the drag link and pan-hard bar.

It also appears tha only way I will clear the front diff is with a bent bar.

I shaved the stock bar mount from the axle, we got the coil buckets all welded in, still I have an un drivable paperweight in the driveway. Can't put the original steering back in because the pitman arm and knuckles have been bored to 3/4" to accommodate the new stuff.



Now no way to make it to the upholsterer either on monday. I should have just left it alone.

My son is here for leave, and we now have no transportation to do anything.

 

[Turdle]

Some pictures of the thrash. When I say thrash, I mean I am thrashed. even sitting in this recliner hurts.

You young guys really run circles around this old man--feel fortunate for your youth!!1

Man I have to thank dkchrist for hanging out, and, hanging in there with me. Not once did he call this until I was ready to give up. I made him late for the SMORR meet and everything. I did let him take a nap though.

Here's Dkchrist burning in the coil mounts and shock towers

His welding skills are excellent

 

[Turdle]

Well, I guess I will change the loose driver side lower ball joint tonight while it's cool. How mad do I need to be?

I have an air hammer and chisel set for it.
I was amazed how fast it shoved the coil bucket rivets out, so, I'm going to attempt to shock the spindle off with that. Is there a real good point to knock it? It seems to ring a bell in my head reading somewhere about a sweet spot-

 

[CDW6212R]

Hit the spindle on the inner most point next to the lower ball joint. The spindle has a large chunk of metal there sticking out which is made for you to hit. A sledge hammer easily makes the BJ pop out that way. Leave the BJ nut on about 1/8" from snug to catch it, then lower with a jack.

PS, I'm sorry for the loss, Turdle. Do what you have to of course.

 

[Turdle]

Hit the spindle on the inner most point next to the lower ball joint. The spindle has a large chunk of metal there sticking out which is made for you to hit. A sledge hammer easily makes the BJ pop out that way. Leave the BJ nut on about 1/8" from snug to catch it, then lower with a jack.

PS, I'm sorry for the loss, Turdle. Do what you have to of course.

Thanks Don.

 

[Turdle]

Well, if anyone is interested,
To remove a dana 44 spindle, what I did:

Air hammer with dull "wedge" chisel. Do not use a cutting chisel.

place chisel tip against the "seam" of spindle to knuckle joint, in the area between the studs. Pull the trigger to get a short burst, move to the next pair of studs, short burst and repeat this till you work your way all the way around.
Repeat, working around using short bursts from the air hammer.

On my 3rd pass around the spindle started walking off. I did not need to swing a hammer once.



Got the ball joint replaced no prob.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, different spindle, I needed that done on my 93 Explorer too.

 

[Happy Jack]

Jon, my son has a slide hammer and socket that screws on the spindle. Pulls it straight out. Let me know if you plan to do them again. Really fast easy and ya don't walk anything.

 

[Turdle]

Thank you Jack, is that a home made tool?

I may take you up on that.

Progress is going slow. I'm making a panhard bar bracket for the frame side right now.

 

[Turdle]

In tonight's episode of "Vitamin D"

Jon turns pyro

It all started when I remembered dkchrist saying " be careful welding on the axle tube-don;t want to warp it"

So I clamped my ground to the axle at the driver side bump stop bracket. I tig welded into the corner mig welds down one side, and went in for dinner while it cooled. I came out and did the opposite side, leaving a 3rd side and a side tab to box it in.

I thought I would weld in the frame bracket box cap while that cooled, so set up and began tig welding it in. I noticed some smoke so I stopped for a minute to let it settle down and started up again. While humming along nicely, I heard a "WHOOF" . I flipped up my mask and saw a burning brake line. The earls, braided type with a plastic coating.

I though"great, there goes 30 bux for a new line", then wrapped it with a wet towel. I went about welding the cap , stopped to check things out and saw a burned spot in the wet towel--hmm WTF?

SO , figuring the tig torch needed new tip, I replaced it and went on. Got to going good and heard "WHOOF" and WTF the brake line is burning--UNDER THE WET TOWEL!!! I looked up cause some more orange caught my attention and

oh HEll-the passenger side line is burning also--and red hot!!!

I put out all the flames, scratched my head and it hit my I still had the ground on the axle. The brake lines were my only ground
Guess that little braided stuff can't handle the current.
Now we know.


So, yeah. I put the clamp on the frame and finished up the bracket. Think I better call it a night.

 

[crazyflights]

Not as bad as my mess up today totaled ranger body in my driveway

 

[dkchrist]

I am sorry Jon. I should have warned you. We toasted 3 sets of brake lines on the baja car before we learned better.

Always ground close and never let the brakes hang on the ground and weld on a frame. The stainless brake hoses are the easiest path to ground.

 

[manaen]

I hope you also have your battery disconnected while welding... Rule of thumb is always have your ground clamp in sight and on the peice you are welding. The closer it is the less amperage you lose to resistance, which results in better welds. Also cleaning the ground spot with a wire wheel or flap disc is crucial. When you have a poor ground that's when electronics get fried on the car. Electricity will always find the path of least resistance and if there is enough resistance it will start to flow through bulbs and wiring and worse electronics. Think of it like hitting your car with lightning you need to provide a clean path.

But you probably already now all that...
Nice work BTW.. so are you going with a bent arm or are you going to move your mount point?