Just Bought - Couple questions | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Just Bought - Couple questions

Nice looking truck. I'd like to add some things to think about though. The A4LD is a great trans on and off road while it lasts. With the high miles you have on yours I would be not want to go with larger tires than stock until I something is done with the trans. As was said it may have an aux. trans cooler. Check your radiator. On the drivers side engine facing part of the radiator below the radiator cap are your trans lines. Follow them back to see if you already have an aux. cooler. It will be a small radiator looking cooler. If you have one no need to install another now. I would not do a complete trans flush. Just drop the trans pan and clean and install a new filter(screen). Buy a good service and repair book for the proper way and torque sequence. When you buy the new gasket, filter, and fluid locate a retailer who sells BG products. This is great stuff. I had a A4LD in my 89 Bronco II and it let go on Hotel Rock Trail in Utah. I cooled in down and refilled with fluid but it would not pull on a incline. Drove up to Moab (about 3 hours) and stayed in a campground. The next morning it would not back up until it warmed up for about 10 minutes. Went to a shop that sold BG and put a can in and it worked great. Drove it home to Kansas over the passes in Colorado. Do not buy the cheap trans fixes in a bottle. My friend that recommended BG rebuilt trans for a living and said the have brake fluid in them. They can lock a tranny up so tight they cannot be disassembled. old transmissions use varnish build up on worn parts to work. A tranny flush could clean enough of that varnish away to make it stop working. You might consider either installing or having a trans temp gauge installed. That way you can monitor your temps. If you are good at wiring a big red light would be great to tell you when to pull over and cool things down while idling. Even with all this I would stay with stock tire size. Taller tires without changing gear ratio is like pulling a trailer all the time. Hard on the trans and cost more in fuel. This is why many used car dealers will remove a hitch from vehicles before putting them on the lot for sale.

You did not say if you are planning to do any off roading or much other driving in this current condition. Or how long before you are planning your Nevada Expeditions. The above with other service of engine, cooling, brakes and drive line would be good for local mild off road trips with stock aggressive tires. A bit about the 35 TTB independent axle. First in stock form and mild wheeling the auto lock outs are fine. Just service and replace worn parts. They use a different locking method than the manual lock outs and do not require 150lbs. of torque. Final torque according to my Chiltons is 16 inch pounds. If and when you do decide to change to manual lock outs get the Warn heavy duty lock outs made for the rear dana 35. These are a lot heavier and I run them. Do not buy the Warn conversion kit. Go to a Dana Spicer dealer and buy the stock 2 large nuts and lock ring for each side. Saves a bunch of money that way and you get the same parts. The 35 does have some things that need to be addressed with proper service. First is that the design placed the front wheel bearings very close together. This does not give them the strength of others with wider spacing. So they need to be replaced more often. Another related issue is spindle removal. Please stay away from advice to hammer or pry off the spindle. There is a socket that can be purchased like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KEHECY/?tag=serious-20. You will need a slide hammer but many auto parts stores will let you use one when you buy your service parts from them. Behind the spindle are seals that keep water and dirt out of the lock outs and bearings. I would include this to the list of service for you Explorer. And don't forget driveshafts and transfer case.

If you are not going to do any wheeling local or in Nevada until you have it the way you want it you can still start with all the things listed. Then transmission is first on the list. You can buy a pedal assy. and switch to a M5OD. If you do try to get one from a 2.9 as 1st gear is lower and you will love it off road. Of course if you can find a really good A4LD specialist out in Cali that is an option also but I would have an over size trans cooler and the temp gauge/light. The thing with an auto trans is heat. Std. trans don't need to be cooled and auto's do. That heat goes into the engine compartment and radiator. But for off road an auto is awesome. Much easier to work 2 pedals with 2 feet than 3 pedals. Then you need to decide on tire size an lift. You need to check what gear ratios you have now. If you have a high (numerically low) ratio then you can look for used parts with low (numerically high) ratio's and figure how tall of a tire you will need and how much lift. Car-Part has been good for me in the past. And you can think about if you want to add a lunch box locker or not.

I run 33's on my 94 Sport with 3.73 gears and a mild lift. But I have a lot of other mods. C-4 auto, Stubler 2nd low range box, and lockers front and back and I can do most difficult trails in Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and Arizona. I drive mine around Kansas with 31x10.5's but put it on a trailer with 33x 10.5's to go out west. Mine is not near as nice as yours.

If you have any questions please ask. You can PM or e-mail me. I can even get you my phone number. Take care and good luck.
Wow thank you so much for all the great information!! I will definitely use you as a resource as I am doing work on the truck. Just finally deep cleaned the inside and outside of the car, went underneath and got a good look at everything. Seems to be a very small leak (trans fluid) coming from back of tranny. leaking down the pan at the bottom best I could tell. I definitely want to get new seals on it, could be a very easy fix and leak is very slow. Trans fluid checked okay. Need to get that fixed, there also might be a very small oil leak somewhere, there is build up of what looks like old oil but couldn't really find any fresh stuff, also level on oil checked good. There is quite a bit of rust as well on the underbody. Luckily the places that looked the worse should be relatively easy fixes, the leaf springs on the sides were horrible, exhaust has hole eaten through, muffler has small hole but the rest seems manageable. Also quite a bit around the front springs, but doesn't look bad enough to rust on nuts or anything I hope. So definitely going to try and get those things taken care of, then yes work on tranny, also hopefully pull newer leaf springs off a compatible F-150/bronco ii at pick and pull. Or an explorer, then going to get a quote for exhaust, or have someone I know weld for me. Hopefully I can find affordable springs/shocks and get those on at some point as well. I'm new to lifts etc, what would be the easiest way to lift 1-2.5 inches? Longer shocks? Longer springs, or spacers? not really sure about advantages/disadvantages but my gut would say to lean away from spacers? Anyways that's a project for a later date but still just curious. The rear diff also had a mark around the perimeter that was very faint but darker. Looked like moisture I guess, first thought was it was leaking but doesn't look bad, and not wet at all to the touch, just a bit greasy but definitely odd. Thanks again!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I didn't see anybody mention it so..........here goes.
For your horn an CC, first check the fuses and relays. If all those are good, check the wiring to make sure nothing is disconnected or broken.
Thank you for the advice I will keep you posted!
 






And keep an eye on your coolant level the first set of heads in my 91 cracked around 175K.
 






Here's my truck with 31's, full size Bronco coils up front, and home built 1.5" lift shackles ( a little less than the warriors)
I'd also recommend this for a trans cooler - Hayden (OC-1679)

img_7106-jpg.jpg
 






Hopefully I can find affordable springs/shocks and get those on at some point as well. I'm new to lifts etc, what would be the easiest way to lift 1-2.5 inches? Longer shocks? Longer springs, or spacers? not really sure about advantages/disadvantages but my gut would say to lean away from spacers?
I just replaced the front springs and bushings on my '93. I put 3/4" brass spacers under them and between the new springs (old were sagging) and the spacers, I gained almost 2" of lift on the front. It has settled some since. For spacers, most will tell you to use the 2WD F150 coil spacers, but you'll have to locate them from a pick-n-pull or junk yard as I don't believe they are available new any longer.

New springs were relatively cheap on Roack Auto.

ldU_fvNXKgqLsGDY7aj9mMnj0qt6w3xcMOKk5yJZKLrA7CfuOg.jpg
xyv5zydgJKB8eGtDfmp03XmiCAVrLeM07FeSojImuxMqaoKUfQ.jpg


Just get longer shackles to easily lift the rear.

As for the rest of the stuff, you have a very good looking '91. Looks like it was well cared for. Follow the recommendations others listed here. This is called baselining - getting all of the "unknowns" out of the vehicle.

I would also add to replace the front bushings when you work on the front end (I don't remember that being talked about).

As for the trans fluid/filter replace, that would be a must, not matter how good the fluid looks. The fluid can look and smell ok, but still have over 100k miles on it. It's cheap and easy to do. If you plan to keep the auto and the truck for a long time, spend a little more and replace the trans pan with one that has a drain plug. Makes fluid/filter changes that much cleaner later down the road.

Amazon.com: Transmission Pan compatible with Ford Ranger 85-07 / Ford Explorer 91-03 18 Bolt Holes: Automotive
 






Skyjacker makes a 1.5" lift coil for these trucks that works very very well and gained us exactly 1.5 of lift on the last two trucks they were installed into.
The 1.5" of lift with new soft Skyjacker coils is nice because it still gives you some camber adjustment on the upper ball joint when you use the infinitely adjustable 0-3 degree style upper camber shim
 






Featured Content

Back
Top