Loose Steering??

[410Fortune]

thanks to this thread I have avoided installing a new rack in my 96, from what I can tell so far the problem (binding) I am having is indeed at the connection from intermediate shaft to the rack itself....now I just have to get it off, inspect it then rebuild it or replace it with my "spare" shaft.....

I have a new rack in the box if I need it but I suspect now I wont ($160 savings)

Thanks fella's

that bolt is a PITA to get too...I am going to try now...my trucks are both 96 so I have the metal shafts....

 

[MountaineerGreen]

that bolt is a PITA to get too...

In my numerous times doing this, I found that a 13mm, 3/8 drive socket on a universal and a long extension works best for me. Get a helper to crank the wheel until the bolt is visible from the front of the truck.

 

[carlover]

Both pinch bolts on mine were very easy to get too. Maybe because its 2wd, im not sure. And for some reason no matter how i turn my wheels the pinch bolts do not change position.

I need a new shaft, my original one is very sloppy and has a noticable bind to it.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The lower pinch bolt on mine is a huge PITA. Its a little easier now that I know how, but the first go around was very difficult.

 

[carlover]

Hey evan i never could get that shaft to fit. I ended up spreading it too far apart and the little bolt welded on the end fell off lol. Ive been looking at local salvage yard for a 95-97 shaft and havent found anything decent yet. Hopefully soon theyll have one, mine is trashed. It makes for a very unstable vehicle.

 

[410Fortune]

I got it. Thursday I removed the factory 96 shaft and found it was toast, rust inside the joints...

Since I had one laying around hahaha with half the miles on it and in great shape, I diss-assembled it, cleaned and re-lubed it, then installed it in my 96.
It steers like butter.

I am returning the new rack I purchased tomorrow, I was 80% sure it was the rack when I was researching binding and found this thread.
You see I forgot that when I installed the drivetrain in this truck I did not replace the 163K mile shaft with the 83K shaft and I meant too.

I jacked up the front end and removed the d side tire.

I accessed the pinch bolt with 1/2 drive, 13mm shallow 6 point socket, wobbly, 12" extension and driver.
I released the metal brake line from its plastic mount.
I used a small bunji cord to pull the metal brake line out of the way (body lift = directly in front of the bolt)

Using a shallow 13mm socket I removed the bolt. You approach from the front alongside the bottom of the ac compressor, around the header and the power steering lines/crossmember and supsension mounts. Its a PITA to get at for sure
Re-installing was the same but requires some patience.
I actually installed the bolt using a pair of "claws" i have.
Its a 24" long metal aparatus with 4 jaws that come out of the end of the flexible body
(read grabber tool) Enabled me to get the bolt into position and begin threading in minutes.

Thanks!

Saved me $172 for now

 

[Turdle]

I got it. Thursday I removed the factory 96 shaft and found it was toast, rust inside the joints...

Since I had one laying around hahaha with half the miles on it and in great shape, I diss-assembled it, cleaned and re-lubed it, then installed it in my 96.
It steers like butter.

I am returning the new rack I purchased tomorrow, I was 80% sure it was the rack when I was researching binding and found this thread.
You see I forgot that when I installed the drivetrain in this truck I did not replace the 163K mile shaft with the 83K shaft and I meant too.

I jacked up the front end and removed the d side tire.

I accessed the pinch bolt with 1/2 drive socket, wobbly, 12" extension and driver.
I released the metal brake line from its plastic mount.
I used a small bunji cord to pull the metal brake line out of the way (body lift = directly in front of the bolt)

Using a shallow 13mm socket I removed the bolt
Re-installing was the same but requires some patience.
I actually installed the bolt using a pair of "claws" i have.
Its a 24" long metal aparatus with 4 jaws that come out of the end of the flexible body
(read grabber tool) Enabled me to get the bolt into position and begin threading in minutes.

Thanks!

Saved me $172 for now

Awesome!!
yeah, I see this as a small problem area that needs attention.

 

[geber11]

Another thought I have is that a weak or low pressure in the power steering system for whatever reason is causing the wandering steering. I noticed on long distant trip that when I switched on the A/C the steering becomes even more loose or wandering than with the A/C off. Is it possible that the A/C on is causing an even lower pressure in the power steering system, causing looser steering? No leaks visible. What do you guys think?

 

[Lazzman]

Thats intertesting, I was thinking the same thing with the power steering unit as well.

I recenly replaced the intermediate shaft on my '98 Sport with a brand new unit from Ford. Thought that would do the trick but it did not. I then ordered a brand new steering gear from Ford with new Bushings, make sure you order the new bushings if you replace the wrack. I also replaced the outer tie rod ends a few months back with Moog Greasable units.

Steering is not much better with both new rack and Intermediate shaft. The notchyness is gone and so is the binding but it still feels loose and the steering wheel Shudders left to right on the highway at speed. After installing the new steering gear I had new Toyo Tires put on with alignment. Shimme, shake is still present.

I am wondering if the power steering pump could have something to do with this?? Low pressure could cause that looseness.

The steering is tight in the respect that it has not play in it anymore.

What the hell is going on, all the steering parts are new?

 

[geber11]

That is odd. Well there only one thing left to try...the power steering pump. This is what my steering does... I'm driving down the highway and the x starts to steer to one side so i adjust the steering to correct and then the x starts to head toward the opposite direction so I recorrect and it starts goin back to the other side. its like there is no center to the steering. The correction necessary is greater with the air conditioning on

 

[Lazzman]

Wow that is strange, mine does not do that it just shakes and shudders a bit from side to side at highway speeds. Another odd thing is that even though there is absolutely no play in the steering, the wheel feel is not tight and confident it is rather loose, like in big Cadilacs and other boats of the 70's era.

I am having my mechanic check it out and will let you know what he finds. Maybe we have the same issue going on?

 

[Redneck0907]

hey lazzman where in mass are ya from? im from wrentham. i used to have a 97 sport sohc.. and it was great, just the transfer case was about to die out on me so i sold it..

also my truck does the same damn thing as well, i have gotten used to it, but still every now and then i start to pay attention to it and it drives me insane... if you dont mind me asking how much did it cost for you to have it done assuming, you took it to a shop. im trying to decide if its worth my time to do it or if i should just have some shop do it. thanks!

 

[Howie69]

I see you are having this problem as well. I know for a fact that my intermediate shaft is bad...or the pinch joint one...I can block the wheels...or even HOLD them...and wabble the steering wheel, and the tires never move, but the intermediate shaft does...and it works in the opposite direction too...can have someone hold the steering wheel, and move the wheels back and forth...can see noticeable play before the intermediate shaft even tries to move.

However, if you have already fixed all of that...and are still having 'wandering' problems, I'd check the sway bar bushings. If they go bad..the thing will literally 'sway' ( Hence, where it gets it's name ). And from my research into this, it seems like bad sway bar bushings tends to lead to faster pinch-joint wear or intermediate shaft play. Oh, and the higher your truck...or wider the tires seems to help the process too. I guess it's from the stress the extra grip/inertia puts on the wheels.

I just wish there was an easy place to find replacements. Local junkyards here have nothing so far.

 

[gavin]

I recently replaced my lower steering shaft with an all metal part I found on ebay.
it seems to have helped, but I still feel slop in the upper steering shaft.
I also still have some play in the steering wheel. How much play is normal?

 

[96kenex]

New Rack????

Question, could this also cause stiff spots troughout the turn? My steering doesnt have alot of play, but when I turn, I get "stiff" spots.

Actually I had that very problem and my friends at LS misdiagnosed the problem as my rack, which I had replaced a year before...problem did not go away. After replacing the second rack under warranty and watching them suck power steering fluid through my intake vacuum (I questioned this and they said oh yea we do this all the time), finally found it was the steering shaft. Had to pay for labor at LS, but they allowed me to buy the part myself and no warranty (I bought new from Ford dealer off this site).

Now I take it in to another shop for tire rotation and they try to tell me my power steering is leaking from the vent tube to my front gears which take 80-90w??? Well I know better, but now don't feel I can trust this shop which is under new management. (With friends like these, I'll be happier in Iraq!)

Bottom line is the rack is loose on driver's side, but I can't tighten down on bolt (shop tells me it is bad bushing and requires a new rack)...consequently the outer tie rod end seal is blown out and not sure how much longer it will take that movement from the loose rack.

My question before ordering a rack, shouldn't I just be able to tighten the racks retainer bolt or do I need to order a rack?

Help!

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I'd start by getting a socket and ratchet, a wrench to hold the top and try to tighten the bolt yourself. If that doesn't work, you could remove the bolt, check it for damaged threads. iIt is a specialty bolt, most likely a dealer item if it is even available. I can't really see the bushing going bad unless it was damaged by an improperly tightened (loose) bolt.

The vent tube leaking into the diff is crap- there is no vent tube for the rack. I'd stay far away from that shop.

 

[96kenex]

Will do thanks!

 

[17nut]

Ok so I went to the junkyard today and picked up a new shaft the boot on the top is fine but the bottom one is torn a little my question is Is the bottom boot supposed to be closed or does it come open? It doesnt look like it was ever closed

 

[scottdbutcher]

Hey guys, not sure if anybody still follows this thread, but im having a heck of a time diagnosing the steering wheel slop in my 1996 5.0 AWD. I have read and re-read this thread and others, but am still baffled and hoping maybe one of you guys could shed some light on it for me.....

My steering wheel has almost a 1/4 turn play in it w/o moving the wheels. HORRIBLE! So i checked the pinch bolt, its tight. Then i grabbed the sterring shaft in the engine compartment with my hands, and it has QUITE a bit of movement. The whole shaft, not the upper or lower specifically, and where it goes into the steering rack there is a flange by the pinch bolt that turns with it.

So i guess my question is, before i start throwing all kinds of $ and random parts at it, and im too cheap to go to a shop (LOL), have any of you seen this? If the intermediate shaft was bad, or the pinch, the flange on the rack wouldn't move would it? It looks to me like i need a new rack, but i hope im wrong, it looks like a HUGE pita job!!!

Is there some sort of gear that could be bad right inside the steering rack that i could change? Also, are the 4.0 and 5.0 steering assembly's the same? I could probably get a used one from the junk yard here for cheap......Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks in advance!

 

[gavin]

it's most likely the lower steering shaft, that connects the intermediate steering shaft to the rack.

and yes, replacing the rack is a huge PITA. I spent 9 hrs on Saturday doing that.