Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures) | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

I haven't yet, but I will soon. The alignment is pretty close, but it's something that really should be done. If you don't the joints and tires will wear faster than normal.
 



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kert0307 - Did you require an alignment to be performed on the front-end when you were done replacing the LCA ball-joints?

Lowers do not generally need an alignment. Uppers always do. Of you pop the lower joint, there is no room for adjustment there...think about it. :) The alignment cant change, since the new joint is placed identically to the old one.
 






Thank-you for all the great information. Replaced my lower ball joints for the first time in about 8 hours in the driveway. My vehicle is stock but took it off road and challenged it a bit was a great time and no more creaking.
Thanks again!!!!!!
 






Did my upper and lower joints on driver's side 03 Ranger Edge4x4. Replaced with the MOOG ball joints. Wouldn't have been possible without the PB Blaster. Would recommend getting the loan-a-tool 2 or 5 ton puller from Autozone for removing the hub/spinde from the front axle. Also had trouble using the Autozone ball joint press re-installing the LBJ. I used a hole saw bit that was a little larger than the ball joint on top since I didn't have a suitable socket. The wheel noticeably toes out now. Steering is not a problem but will it hurt to drive for a week until I can get alignment.
 






did upper and lower ball joints,inner and outer tie rods on a '99 2dr we paid too much for:o. Then did the "Poor Man's Alignment" with the string wrapped around the tires. looks ok,the steering wheel is even pretty centered,not dead spot on but pretty close,but still a little bit of this / \ with the tires and some wierd steering feeling going over bumps and such,kind of pulls (yanks almost) there doesnt seem to be any play in the steering;the tires move right away when wheel is turned when I was doing the toe in/out.

guess I'll have to take it to the alignment shop
 






A little nervous about doing this!

I went for an alignment today & the Mech called me over to look @ my LBJs. He put a crowbar under the tire and lifted the tire about a 1/2". The rig was on a lift. He told me I had to get new LBJs. Quoted me $350 for the job.:( Do to unexpected bills, I cant afford that. I asked him to just get the alignment as close as he could, and he obliged me. He said it was almost spot on, but I need to get the LBJs replaced asap.

He did not wiggle from top or bottom of the tire, is what he showed me correct? Should I trust that he just did that up/down visual to make it a selling point for a replacement? Is a 1/2" a lot of play?:confused:

SO, after reading most of this thread, I am toying with the idea of tackling this job myself. Thing is, I'm nervous as hell! Should I wait till I can get the money, or if I try to do this, can I get some help while I am doing this from my Explorer family out there in the forum? I will put my laptop on the tool tray! I never, ever tried to work on suspension b/4! I can yank a motor, swap a tranny, replace a coolant system, and a varity of others, but I will be exploring a new frontier.
 






If you have the normal tools that people who swap engines and major parts, you should be fine to do it. Try to get a good tool set as mentioned. With the wrong tool set you end up having to use sledge hammers etc, or find the right tool set. The one I bought worked well for both removing and installing the LBJ's. Take your time and it shouldn't be bad at all.
 












I believe that at the first of the thread there is a lot of suggestions about where people got the tools, most rent them from a part store. I bought mine knowing that I would need them every once in a while.
 






Harbor Freight has the ball joint press needed, it's virtually identical to the loan a tool set available at Auto Zone. I now live 30 miles from the nearest AZ, so I bought myself a press. I wouldn't want to tackle this job without the press one way or the other.
 






Harbor Freight has the ball joint press needed, it's virtually identical to the loan a tool set available at Auto Zone. I now live 30 miles from the nearest AZ, so I bought myself a press. I wouldn't want to tackle this job without the press one way or the other.

How much for the press @ Harbor Freight?
 


















Just wanted to say thanks alot for posting the directions and pictures on replacing the ball joints. You personally saved me at least 5 or 6 hundred dollars and countless hours of struggling and enabling me to do this myself having never done it before and really being clueless to the whole damn process. Sure appreciate it man. Thankx take it easy, u the man!!!!
 






The best thing you can do to show your appreciation is spend $20 and be an elite member. All these pictures and pages have to be hosted somewhere, web hosting and site software all cost money. None of this would be possible without Rick's time, efforts and money.......

http://www.explorer4x4.com/elite.html
 






Thanks a bunch for the helpful post, MountaineerGreen... You saved my buddy (1998 XLT) and myself (2000 XLT) about $600+. Your directions worked great and it took us probably about 4+ hours to do them. Not bad for jack, jackstands and handtools. My car is rock solid now. Thanks a ton!!
 






Just wonderful, I actually used 2 large 1/2 sockets to allow the bolt shaft of the ball joint to not cause any damage. I made sure to inspect and clean any rust or fod off the arm before re-assembly. Funny how i managed to figure out the same method for reinstall on my own!

A little bit of penetrating oil like wd40 will make it a little easier also. Don't forget dust cap for the greast fitting.
 






After getting the lower ball joint nut off, the knuckle should slide right off, correct? [Ball joint is good, I just need a new knuckle]
 






After getting the lower ball joint nut off, the knuckle should slide right off, correct? [Ball joint is good, I just need a new knuckle]

You will need to work on it. The knuckle will slide down (if you have removed the upper away from the knuckle). You might have to tap on it to get to slide off the end. Used a pentrating oil to help it along.
 



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But I don't need any special tools or anything like that if I'm not changing the ball joint?

I have EVERYTHING else disconnected from the knuckle, just not the lower portion.
 






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