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M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy:D:D so let the fun begin.
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

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RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)
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VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)
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Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
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and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY
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well just a little update.well the burnouts and doughnuts have paid their toll on all the mounts and middle bearing on the driveshaft.i shifted hard into 3rd last night and heard a LOUD clunk:(.knew right away that it was either the rear end or that POS bearing in the middle of the two piece driveshaft.pulled over and it was the middle bearing had torn right out and bent the casing.i also have a broken motor mount and tranny mount.both are being replaced with solid so not even going to mess with them now.

up till 98 these things had 2 piece driveshafts.so i have been looking for a one piece even before this happened but finding a 98-2001 2wd ex cab,5 speed has not been easy.sat i ended up finding one,drove out and it was the wrong one:mad:.i told him i was looking for one that is 64'' weld to weld and 28 spline count.he had a 34''blah blah.he said "well we just got a ranger in Friday that hasn't been inventoried,let me check it" he comes back and has the driveshaft!!!!!i couldn't believe it!!!it was the big aluminum one,they make two and the steel one is more rare and smaller round.

long story short,it fits and has no clearance issues for now.it will when i drop the rear to 4 inches tho

that U clamp looking thing should be around the rubber thing.
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thing is HUGE!!!:eek:
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hard to see but if you look close at the motor mount you can see it has moved forward and torn from the rubber bottom part

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and some teasers of the modified brake parts,wired brushed them and cleaned them all up.looks STUNNING in the sun,hard to capture with a camera.:smoke:

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should have all the rest of the parts in and back by wed.:D
 



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Your busting things and you haven't even added the real power yet. What brand of tires do you like? I really need to buy stocks in that company. :)

The brakes are an awesome idea. Their going to cook great. What kind of rims are you going to use? You will really need to show those brakes off.
 






Your busting things and you haven't even added the real power yet. What brand of tires do you like? I really need to buy stocks in that company. :)

Yea I know.well everything rubber will be solid after the swap.this is my second set of tires!! Hahah once I get my good tires burnouts will stop!! Well atleast the daily or tire melting ones!!!!

255/50r16 BFG G FORCE;)
 






Those are pretty meaty tires. Awesome!!
 






Those are pretty meaty tires. Awesome!!

Biggest I could find in a 16" before going to a slick.going to try and run them on four corners
 






Nice brake swap i have thought about doing that on my explorer. wit the 5.0 rear end your going to get it should already have those on it. yea try not to break this drive shaft lol :eek: and nice story about the date though :bsnicker: that was good.
 






Nice brake swap i have thought about doing that on my explorer. wit the 5.0 rear end your going to get it should already have those on it. yea try not to break this drive shaft lol :eek: and nice story about the date though :bsnicker: that was good.

No OE is 10.25" ill be doing the FN bracket swap or making my own to run 12" in the rear also.honestly I wanted the steel because is smaller round and thought it would be stronger.but from searching people say the aluminum one is stronger.:dunno:

Traction is going to be the hard part, if I can get that I think A LOT of stuff is going to break.with my big 36x14.50 on the ex I could light them up from a dead stop by just pounching it.the new tires are about 11" wide (contact area) but are way stickier and more tread makes contact with the ground
 






Beat on it until it breaks, make it stronger... Repeat.
 






Pick up my new rear end last night.its a 8.8 3.73 LS from a 5.0 explorer, so it has trac bars.it will be getting new seals, bearings, clutches and cobra 12" brakes.so now ill have 12" brakes on all four corners. That should stop this truck on a dime!!;)




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I like the trac bars! I will have to look and see if I have the mounts. Big, beefy brakes will be awesome. Mostly up front, of course.
 






I like the trac bars! I will have to look and see if I have the mounts. Big, beefy brakes will be awesome. Mostly up front, of course.

Only 5.0 rear ends came with them.should help alittle.I may end up making some thicker ones tho.i tend to use and rely on my brakes a lot,especially when entering a corner really hard.I hate brake fade!!!:thumbdwn::mad: I'm going to be running stainless steel lines also;)should really perform well on the stip when I'm stopping from high speeds also
 






Did you grab two right side trac-bar brackets? Or are you going to try to utilize the left side bracket with e-brake support?

Only the 5.0 rear ends have the mounts on the axle tubes.
 






Did you grab two right side trac-bar brackets? Or are you going to try to utilize the left side bracket with e-brake support?

I have both.doubt ill be able to use either.frame is smaller.ill have to probably have to make my own mounts or use the mounts and make my own arms.I'm thinking make my own arms.I would like a thicker bar and hemi joints.also the cobra brakes will use a different setup for the ebrake

Yea only 5.0 ex have them on the tube
 






Those bars are solid. You shouldnt get any flex out of them. But since your Ranger frame is tighter you probably will have to make your own. If geometry constraints allow for it, run those bars up the frame as far toward the cab as possible to keep the angle small.
 






Those bars are solid. You shouldnt get any flex out of them. But since your Ranger frame is tighter you probably will have to make your own. If geometry constraints allow for it, run those bars up the frame as far toward the cab as possible to keep the angle small.

Ranger leafs mount outside of the frame where explorer mounts under it.I may just weld like two inch blocks to the frame or whatever the differences in width, then mount the stock brackets to them.that would be easiest, differences should be about the width of the leaf pack.
 






Oh yea sounds like a plan:)
 






:exp:
Oh yea sounds like a plan:)

We shall see ;) gota finish up the front suspension and brakes first.

Anyone know if they sell a performance spring in stock ride height? I know moog sells a progressive rate spring in stock height but don't know if a progressive spring would preform better than a standard coil spring.to me you would have to load it up before it preforms good.standard would preform at the same rate right off the bat.but idk...any input?
 






so im still waiting on my rotors,calipers and the machine shop to free up some time,should be done wed.so i figured i would degrease the motor and frame.when i bought it,it had a power steering hose that was loose.so the whole motor and frame was covered in oil!!!good thing is that it dont really have any rust.

so took me 4 hour to degrease the motor and frame.i used engine degreaser,then simple green and then crudd cutter.i pressure washed the hell out of it and got it about 90% down to bare metal.i then used rust reformer on the whole frame,front to back and inside and out.looks really good for just reformer.i still need to paint it tho,thinking just a gloss black.i obviously didnt paint the leafs or axles as they are both getting replaced;)

frame isnt really rusted,thats just flash rust from removing the paint and gunk.
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You need your own speed shop or custom shop... The kind of work I have seen is truly amazing.

Although working on other peoples stuff always puts yours on the back burner. I say this from my days turning wrenches in the Army... you're too tired to fix or tinker on your own.
 



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You need your own speed shop or custom shop... The kind of work I have seen is truly amazing.

Although working on other peoples stuff always puts yours on the back burner. I say this from my days turning wrenches in the Army... you're too tired to fix or tinker on your own.

i basically have my own shop lol:D o i do work or help alot of my boys.i try and do something every day or atleast on the weekends to my truck.got a ton of work planned.

i see you posted over on rps about the 12'' brakes.what size rims do you have?i planned on making two kits for testing,one for me and one for xeek.but he has 15'' rims so if the brakes dont fit his 15'' rims i may need someone else to help me test the brackets;)
 






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