Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Install

[donalds]

The cam spins half the speed is the crank so 2 spins should be fine but I would go with 3 or 4 just to be sure

 

[C420sailor]

That’s about how many I did. With the tensioners I listed, the top of the locking nuts was flush with the bottom of the hex head of the adjuster. If you’re about there, you’ll be good to go for start. Not sure how other tensioners are.

I’ll post pics later—pulling the old girl into the garage in a bit for some fluids and PM

 

[C420sailor]

If the adjuster is threaded in much less than this, I’d do some additional checking before firing it up. This is on a Job 2 motor, but I don’t think there should be a difference. Front looks the same.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Replying so I don't forget about this.

 

[BTR]

@C420sailor,

Thanks for the pic! Excellent help! My manual tensioners should be arriving today or tomorrow. I hope to put them in soon.

(As far as I know), you're correct in that manual tensioners installed in Job1 and Job2 4.0L SOHC engines should appear the same. (If I recall correctly), the differences in Job1 and Job2 engines are all "external," i.e., they have to do with the valve covers and the location of the oil fill cap.

 

[410Fortune]

2 complete rotations of the crank is one full cycle of the 4 stroke engine

I would crank it around a full 6 or 8 times just for good measure

No real changes to sohc engine 01-04 you will be fine

 

[BTR]

Today, I received 2 Alpha Rider Cam Timing Chain Tensioner Manual W/Gasket For Polaris Ranger 1000 RZR 570 XP 900 ACE Stainless Steel from Amazon.

One is OK; the other has buggered-up threads on both the body and the tension pin. I’ll be returning it for a replacement.

If I put a little bit of oil on the O-ring (inside the manual tensioner), should I use mineral oil, or motor oil, which one? Please advise. Many thanks.

 

[donalds]

should I use mineral oil, or motor oil, which one? Please advise. Many thanks.

I used engine oil

 

[410Fortune]

Engine oil, pb blaster, Vaseline, atf, mineral oil it really doesn’t matter as long as you don’t try to install it dry

 

[C420sailor]

I use the tears of my enemies

 

[BTR]

2000 XLT 4DR 2WD. 4.0L SOHC JOB 1 VIN E. 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E. 158,000 miles.

I replaced the rear hydraulic tensioner (Ford OEM hydraulic tensioner 7U3Z-6K254-A installed August 2022 at 149,000 miles), which was working properly, with a manual tensioner (Alpha Rider Cam Timing Chain Tensioner Manual W/Gasket For Polaris Ranger 1000 RZR 570 XP 900 ACE Stainless Steel; Amazon).

Thanks to everyone's advice and tips, the job went smoothly.

I did 3 "passes" of tightening the tensioner pin: (1) rotating the engine clockwise by hand, (2) rotating the engine with the starter while the fuel pump relay was disconnected, (3) running the engine.

I ended up with about 2 threads of the tensioner pin showing above the lock nut (not zero threads as shown in C420sailor's picture above).

On first startup (warm engine), it started and ran quieter. However, the real test will be the first startup this morning (cold engine). I'll report back how it goes. Also, soon, I'll be replacing the front hydraulic tensioner with an Alpha Rider manual tensioner.

 

[donalds]

Super cool

 

[410Fortune]

No more cold start rattle, which is timing chains at slack, which is what kills the tensioners… manual is the way to go thanks to Polaris choosing to use crappy parts! I mean you grab one part from ford and it’s the worst one of them all! Hahahaha

 

[C420sailor]

Makes sense you didn’t need as much adjuster depth…my engine has more miles on it, likely a little more chain stretch

 

[BTR]

On first startup after sitting overnight in the cold, it's super quiet. No rattle!

Previously, on cold mornings' first startup, I had a serious, nerve racking, damn-damn-damn! rattle that sounded like it was going to break through the block at any moment! Now, none at all. This thing (aftermarket manual tensioner) is a $16.99 miracle!

Given I replaced only the rear tensioner (not the front; front is still a hydraulic tensioner; I'll be replacing it soon), it's obvious that most... if not all... of my chain rattle was in the rear. I'd always wondered where the rattle was coming from... now I know.

Once I replace the front tensioner, I'll report back with the outcome.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Makes sense you didn’t need as much adjuster depth…my engine has more miles on it, likely a little more chain stretch

Noticed this one had decent chain stretch on it after 330k. I might have to find one longer if yours was all the way in haha.

 

[C420sailor]

Nah mine still had some left for sure. Remember that chain stretch isn’t linear.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Nah mine still had some left for sure. Remember that chain stretch isn’t linear.

True I just remeber when I had the front cover off with everything in it still had some play. Granted the hydraulics werent pumped up but I figure this is its resting stage without any external pressure it had some slack.

 

[swshawaii]

Now a sticky.

Thank you OP
@C420sailor

 

[BTR]

2000 XLT 4DR 2WD. 4.0L SOHC JOB 1 VIN E. 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E. 158,000 miles.

Update:

• I have now replaced both the rear and front hydraulic tensioners (both previously replaced at 149,000 miles and were both working properly) with manual tensioners.​
• With the engine running, I tightened the tension pins to finger-tight. Then, I turned the engine off, backed the tension pins out by 1/4 turn, and locked the pins down using the lock nuts and a small dab of blue Loctite.​
• My startup rattle is about 80% quieter than before. However, there is still some startup rattle. On startup, the rattle goes away quickly. On acceleration (2,000... 3,000... 3,500 RPMs) there is no rattle.​

Soooooo, this leaves me with some questions:

1. Will further tightening of the tension pins completely eliminate startup rattle?
2. Is it realistic to want-to-achieve complete elimination of startup rattle?
3. Should I tighten them more... or leave them alone... which one?
4. I assume the chains, guides, etc. will get looser and looser as time goes on (even with good oil and filters, and frequent oil changes). Given this, when and how do I know to snug-up the tension pins?

Please advise. Many thanks!