Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

[techieman33]

The plastic one sounds like the one from my 2000, it's the 6 wire with the intake air temp sensor too.

 

[Turdle]

my 98 did not have the IAT sensor integrated to the MAF.

 

[seth247]

Well my engine harness has a seperate plug for the intake air temp sensor. It goes into the intake tube after the filter. My harness also doesn't have the two outside wires that I think go to the thermister(intake air temp sensor built into the maf)

so it looks like I have a later maf than the harness was designed for. I guess well find out if it will be a problem. Hopefully not.

 

[CDW6212R]

I wonder if the wire terminal ends are the same for the separate IAT sensor, versus the six wire MAF. I will also have to move my IAT wires into a six wire connector. I'd do that if you have a choice, the later six wire MAF's are the performance standard at the moment.

 

[seth247]

Hmm I think they may be the Same. I may do that later.

 

[seth247]

I was wrong Jaime I took a closer look at my diagrams and the one fo the '96 shows it using the t-case speed sensor. I tried hooking that up to my computer but still won't shift into third.

I'm haveing my exhaust finished up right now. Hopefully that'll solve my running rich problem.

Then I'll try the abs module and rear axle sensor.

 

[seth247]

I readjusted the trans range sensor using the multimeter. And hooked up the 4wabs module for the speed signal.

The computer is getting a correct speed signal, the exhaust is done, the range sensor is correctly adjusted and the damn transmission still won't shift out if f$&@in second.

I'm tired of all the stupid crap. I've been wishing for goin on two months that I had left the damn v6 alone.

I'm stepping away for tonight. Im just tired.

 

[seth247]

Testing with the multi meter shows that the computer is correctly grounding the shift solenoids to shift into third.

But the transmission ain't doin it.

So either I have a stuck solenoid...doubtful... Or something I installed in the transgo kit was incorrect. I had some bad feelings about some of the stuff.

I'll go pull the pan and test the solenoids.

 

[Jakee]

Seth247 - Hang in there. It can get frustrating as hell working on a project like this, v6 or v8. I can't tell you how many times I've thought, "Why in the heck did I even touch this thing".

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, take it slow if possible. The more things are changed at one time, the far more issues will turn up.

If there is no CEL light and code, it should be that the two shift wires are receiving the right signals. But can you check those wires again, run a continuity test for what you had to move in the trans connector? If you didn't get those swapped as needed, the trans would definitely do weird things.

 

[seth247]

Well I tested the solenoids directly with 12 volts and both clicked and both had a resistance of 26ohms. Fine.

I pulled off the valve body and replaced the transgo manual valve with the stock one and put in a check ball that was takin out with the transgo kit.

I'll try it in the morning and see if anything has changed.

About the trans wires. Since I found in my diagrams that none of the wires in that trans bulkhead connector changed at the computer when they changed at the connector, then ther is no need for re wiring. They only changed where the wires were in the connectors, and since all my connectors are matched. There should be no problems.

Testing while driving with the multi meter in the passenger seat shows that power is going through the solenoids and back to the computer. And the computer is grounding the correct sequence to trigger third gear. So it must be something internal with the trans.

The only cels I'm getting are related to the egr and evap systems. Which are not hooked up.

Truth be told I don't know if this trans ran correctly in the first place. I don't trust the JY I got it from.

 

[seth247]

Till nothing.

Itl do first to second when selecting manually.

But no further.

 

[seth247]

I'm thinking a shift valve is stuck in the bore.

I've been reading and a couple sources say the valve body bolt torque is around 6-8 ftlbs.

I know I've got at least twice that on them.

I think a combination of brand spanking new shift valves that were replaced with the transgo kit and warped bores cause by a certain idiot over tightening the bolts has one of em stuck.

 

[CDW6212R]

Okay, hit me again about the trans wires, I think I'll let it sink in this time. I recall you saying that before, but I still didn't take it in. The wires are 99 wires, so they match the trans, good. you used just the nine needed for the 96 MLPS, so it should be good.

Do get a 1/4" torque wrench to do those VB bolts, the specs are very important. They should be about 90-100in.lbs. as I recall. It's only light wrist pressure, a 1/4" ratchet and 8/10mm socket does well. Use your fingers and not your wrist to tighten them, if that makes sense. Put the TransGo manual valve back in, I think that was for improving resistance to internal fluid leaks, from wear.

 

[seth247]

Allright folks I MAY have found the problem.

I yanked the valve body for the seventieth time and inspected a the valves.

The solenoid regulator valve was not seating fully in the bore. By about a quarter inch.

I decided to force the matter and it now seats fully and I ran it in and out of the bore about a hundred times to wear it in. This was a valve that was replace with the transgo kit and they manufactured it slightly oversize to tighten tolerances.

I really really really hope it the last time I have to look at a valve body for a while.

Anyway. weather withstanding, I'm gonna throw It on tomorrow morning, paying special attention to bolt torque.

 

[410Fortune]

dang man, dont give up, I have seen this many times before... you can do it! It will work!

Trans issues after a drivetrain swap are common, so many times we have to remove the A4LD again to fix something, find that the AOD-e my buddy got was for DRAG RACING and wouldnt work for sh&* in his lifted 93, or the headers you just had coated dont fit around your AOD-e, lets keep fingers crossed your valve body issue is the deal! It sounds very much like it is.... so dont fret! TRUST ME WHEN I SAY you will forget about all those stupid frustrating hours and gallons of wasted fluids in about 14 minutes of drive time


pulling for you in CO, even the wife knows a bit about your conversion... I am always updating her with forum project trucks

 

[Turdle]

On the bright side Matt,
You can now be the forum 4r70w guru.

 

[seth247]

Thanks guys. And yeah I know thus thing like the back of my back now.

Unfortunately I woke up late and I got to get to work. I'll put it on tonight.

 

[410Fortune]

dude my BII I know better then the back of my hand, every bolt (except a few suckers behind the dash) I have installed..... the only electrical parts that are still OEM (300K miles) are the rear wiper motor and the pass door window motor, the cruise control speed controller and the 4x4 shift computer... thats it..even the wires to them have been customized!

Nothing like knowing your own vehicle, I can "feel" when a wheel bearing gets slightly loose LOL

 

[seth247]

Ok sorry i took so long to update.

We now shift through all gears! It kicks alittle on ythe 1-2 shift at slow speeds but then I did want harder shifts. Full throttle shifts are good.

It doesn't handle take offs very well. But I still haven't adjusted the tps which I will do tonight.

I'm leaking oil somewere from my remote oil filter mount. I'll check them out tomorrow morning.

It doesn't have a lot of top end power.(keep in mind I'm not pushing it yet) I think maybe because the fuel pump isn't up to the full throttle demand. Or maybe not. I need to recheck the codes tonight or tomorrow and see what the fuel curves are doing.

Question: how do i change the idle speed. Can I jus turn the throttle stop screw? Or is is something that must be done in the computer?

It idles okay in neutral and park but it doesn't like being put into gear. Revs drop to like 400-500rpm