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Moog Quality

C420sailor

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Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
Wondering if anyone else has had similar issues recently.

Been using Moog suspension parts for a very long time. Ordered replacement upper ball joints for my Moog arms. On arrival, both boots were torn to shreds in the packaging. I mean one was in 5-7 pieces, and the other one was about torn in half. Thank god I checked the parts before I pulled the old joints. Weird to have TWO identically bad units. Bad batch maybe?

The rubber boot was MUCH thinner than the Moog joint I have in the truck. Maybe they’re pinching pennies and making the boots paper thin?

Thoughts?

AF8438BD-2EAE-43B6-8350-5659E8C1B807.jpeg
 



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What is the country of origin on the label on the packaging? I read somewhere moog parts are made in 16 countries and they outsource some of the production. You would expect identical quality across the board.
 












Were both Moog's clear plastic parts bags sealed? Bottom boot in pic looks like broken dust boot remnants I removed from a Moog UCA that was only installed for 2-3 years. We all know Moog doesn't offer boots separately, and they usually fail long before the ball joints themselves. Happened to me with a Moog TRE purchased from Amazon and their lenient, but careless return policies. Appeared the previous buyer cleaned their old, broken TRE boot thoroughly and returned it in an opened package after pulling the switcheroo.
 






The boots are not as good as they used to be. Energy suspension makes a beautiful boot.
 






The Moog brand itself means nothing. They share bearings with other brands when it’s cost effective. The same is true of all their parts. Typically the cost is more important than the brand. Before someone bags on them as Chinese, be well aware China does some of the highest quality of manufacturing anywhere. China does FAR more high end manufacturing than the US. They also make some junk. The cost is the biggest differentiator in quality.
 






The boots are not as good as they used to be. Energy suspension makes a beautiful boot.
Do the poly ES or Prothane boots seal well? Moog and many others have a metal ring molded inside the flange that snaps on and seals.
I and many others would like to source boots that don't leak from the flange when greased.
 






Do the poly ES or Prothane boots seal well? Moog and many others have a metal ring molded inside the flange that snaps on and seals.
I and many others would like to source boots that don't leak from the flange when greased.
They have to leak when greased. Where’s the pressure supposed to go? Anything grease-able will leak 100%.
 






Do the poly ES or Prothane boots seal well? Moog and many others have a metal ring molded inside the flange that snaps on and seals.
I and many others would like to source boots that don't leak from the flange when greased.
I used the universal boot guide to find the ones I needed. As MBrooks420 stated, you won't find any that are totally sealed.

 






They have to leak when greased. Where’s the pressure supposed to go? Anything grease-able will leak 100%.
From Moog's "grease relief valve".

"After installing the ball joint into the control arm or steering knuckle, follow the suggestions below to install a “press fit” style MOOG boot. It is important to install the MOOG boot properly to prevent damage to the boot and to prevent excessive grease from squeezing out onto brake components when lubricating."


 






I used the universal boot guide to find the ones I needed. As MBrooks420 stated, you won't find any that are totally sealed.
No problems with grease getting on the rotors? Good way to ruin inside brake pads. WHICH ES covers are you using for upper and lowers? TIA
 






Moog has good and bad parts, like almost every brand. Buy carefully, the seller is more important for any Moog parts. Moog has no customer service, they defer everything to the sellers. So if you have a problem of any kind with a Moog part, you have to go through the seller. I had the wrong sized boots come with BJ's I got for my 91 Lincoln. The shop i paid to install them didn't notice the boots didn't fit, nor did I until I was working on installing them. I had to go to Advance and buy new Moog BJ's, and then return those to get the right boots. I called Moog first thing, that was a waste of time.
 






If they didn't leak, how would you know when you have pushed enough grease into the joint?

Moog hasn't been consistent with quality in many years. I will say that I have good luck with their problem solver series ball joints. I also like the upper joints with the angled zerk fittings.
 






Older Moog lower BJ's are sealed well when new, they did not leak from those boots. You simply filler the boot until it expands very slightly. That's full, and no grease was lost.

The tiny new boots they use now do leak some, around the perimeter, as do the upper BJ boots of the brands I have used. The upper BJ's need regular greasing because the same path for grease to get out, is also for water and dirt to get into the joints. You have to displace any moisture etc, out of them because they are not sealed well. I'm not saying they can be sealed, just that it is best if they are or can be.
 






No problems with grease getting on the rotors? Good way to ruin inside brake pads. WHICH ES covers are you using for upper and lowers? TIA
I think 9.13130G is the part number, it wasn't an explorer I was working on so not sure if that helps you. I've had no problems with greasing the joints.
 






The Moog brand itself means nothing. They share bearings with other brands when it’s cost effective. The same is true of all their parts. Typically the cost is more important than the brand. Before someone bags on them as Chinese, be well aware China does some of the highest quality of manufacturing anywhere. China does FAR more high end manufacturing than the US. They also make some junk. The cost is the biggest differentiator in quality.
A CNC machine will run anywhere in the world, doesn't matter where it is plugged in. If it is programmed correctly and the raw material is decent grade you will get a quality part. Environmentalism for profit has killed manufacturing in the US, the solution to saving the planet is outsource to less regulated countries. Anything you buy made in China is like a box of cracker jack, you wonder if the prize is a letter pleading for help.
 






I think 9.13130G is the part number, it wasn't an explorer I was working on so not sure if that helps you. I've had no problems with greasing the joints.
Just ordered from eBay. Lowers have been leaking for YEARS, and I've tried several generic rubber boots that never worked well. Had enough fails to find an easier way to separate the PITA tapered stud from the knuckle/spindle by threading the castle nut flush with the end of the threads, using a socket, floor jack, and heavy dead blow hammer.
 






Just ordered from eBay. Lowers have been leaking for YEARS, and I've tried several generic boots that never worked well. Had enough fails to find an easier way to separate the PITA tapered stud from the knuckle by threading the castle nut flush with the end of the threads, using a socket, floor jack, and heavy dead blow hammer. Thanks again.
It is a universal part, did you verify the measurements? Reading the questions and reviews on Amazon, others have used it on the explorer.
 






Did not, but I'll take a chance for $7.29 shipped. I do recall that number coming up often for lower boots in past EF threads. Moog K8695T flange is 47.4mm (1.86") and 9.13130 boots show 41.25mm (1.62"). Poly should easily stretch .24mm or around 1/4" and seal reasonably well. Anything close would be better than what remains on there now. Grease is everywhere including on the rotors. Will "try" to clean the pads, but probably replace them with Akebono/Pro-Act pads anyway.

Details (Dimensions)
 



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Did not, but I'll take a chance for $7.29 shipped. I do recall that number coming up often for lower boots in past EF threads. 8695T base is around 2 inches and ES boots show 41.25mm (1.625"). Poly should easily stretch that far and give a reasonably good seal. Anything close would be better than what's left on there now. Grease is everywhere including on rotors. Will "try" to clean the pads, but will probably upgrade with Akebono/Pro-Act pads anyway.

Buy your truck some OEM Motorcraft BRSD652 pads, the severe duty from Rock Auto, $42.99 plus shipping and taxes;

I've been delivering mail with those for several years now.
 






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