Motorized pre-oiler

[2000StreetRod]

The Eagle rotating assembly for my 2003 Aviator engine is supposed to ship in a couple weeks. I want to install a motorized pre-oiler before I crank the rebuilt engine installed in my 2003 Limited. There are numerous turbocharger oil scavenge pumps available with a range in cost from $40 to more than $400 but very few 12 volt pumps designed for pressurized pumping. Many of the scavenge pumps specify flow volume at 0 psi but not at pressure (i.e. 20 or 30 psi). I want a pump that has system performance comparable to the Accusump I installed in my 2000 Sport: 20 or more psi at the oil pressure switch port in about 3 seconds after ignition on. A bonus would be enough flow to allow "limp home" on the electric pump if the mechanical oil pump should fail.

I installed the Accusump in my Sport to eliminate the SOHC V6 start up timing chain rattle. Some members may argue that with the advanced synthetic oils available today a pre-oiler is not justified to extend engine bearing life. "However, the spun rod bearings I found when tearing down the Aviator engine convinced me that a pre-oiler may be warranted on the 4.6L V8.

After watching a video showing how much quieter a TurboWerx pump was than the typical $50 to $150 scavenger pump (Turbowerx remote oil pump) I found one on eBay (Exa-Pump TWX-300-12) for $399.

I asked the seller if it was suitable to use as a pre-oiler and the response was: "It will function perfectly for your application. Over the years we have had many customers use our pumps for this as engine pre-oilers with 100% success." Then I searched online for a documented test of success. What I found was quite discouraging: TurboWerx Exa Oil Pump Review - Should you buy one?.

My Accusump has a 3 quart capacity but I think about 1 quart of that is used for stored air pressure. The oil pressure lasts for about 30 seconds before dropping below 5 psi. 2 qts/30 sec so 1 gal/min @ 20 psi should be my minimum flow requirement. RB Racing sells two possibly suitable pumps and their evaluation of their competition is informative: Turbo Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps

The one on the left is rated for continuous duty at 25 psi and the larger one on the right for 40 psi continuous duty however the flow is not specified at those pressures. The flow at 0 pressure is 2.6 GPM for the smaller pump ($295) and 3 GPM for the larger pump ($430). I'll contact RB Racing and try to get flow rates at pressure. RB Racing points out that if pressure exceeds the rated value the pump will overheat unless protected by an appropriately sized fuse. A pressure relief valve may be needed when pump flow exceeds demand. I suspect that direct drive gear pumps are more susceptible to overheating than other types. I could avoid the need for a pressure relief valve and oil return path by using pulse width modulation (PWM) to control pump speed based on the output voltage of an oil pressure sensor. A PWM motor controller worked well with my 340 lph fuel pump.

 

[2000StreetRod]

oil pump feed

The oil pan drain plug is at the best location for the oil pump feed port.

Unfortunately, the plug threads are M14x1.5.

I was unable to find any fittings with that thread. I did find a M14x1.5 to -8 AM male adapter (Fragola 460814) available from Summit for $5.97.

A Tee (Earl's Performance 926108ERL, $25.61 from Summit) will provide a port (the right angle) for the oil pump feed and a port to cap as a substitute for a drain plug.

My only concern is the total length of the adapter, fitting and cap will extend the cap below the bottom of the oil pan and expose it to road hazards.

 

[Ex Addict]

Hi StreetRod. I'm currently going down this path. Have you progressed this project since?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Hi StreetRod. I'm currently going down this path. Have you progressed this project since?

By the time I finally received my rotating assembly in the spring of this year I had become very active in politics. All of my automotive projects are on hold until after the Nov 8 general election.

 

[ZWilson07]

Subscribed. Any updates since election is over?

 

[2000StreetRod]

See the following posts:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...xt-project-vehicle.417189/page-9#post-3568583
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...t-project-vehicle.417189/page-10#post-3570218
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...t-project-vehicle.417189/page-10#post-3570450
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...t-project-vehicle.417189/page-10#post-3570870

I'm in the middle of assembling my DOHC V8 so I haven't done anything with installing the pre-oiler on the vehicle.

 

[ZWilson07]

See the following posts:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...xt-project-vehicle.417189/page-9#post-3568583
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...t-project-vehicle.417189/page-10#post-3570218
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...t-project-vehicle.417189/page-10#post-3570450
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...t-project-vehicle.417189/page-10#post-3570870

I'm in the middle of assembling my DOHC V8 so I haven't done anything with installing the pre-oiler on the vehicle.

Thanks. I thoroughly enjoy following your threads. Your work and the ideas you come up with always impress me. Your brain just has the correct way of thinking for it. Even though I'm an ASE tech for International and I am constantly faced with problems like these that you proceed to overcome, you still come up with ideas that I never would have thought of.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pre-lubers are more common on marine applications because boats often are not used during the winter months. I have seen one new specific manufacturer complete kit (shown below) offered on eBay several times for $650 to $750 which I was not willing to pay. The kit includes a motor/pump assembly, electrical control module, oil filter mount adapter, numerous fittings and hoses. I found a used unit (shown below) that includes most of the components offered for $150. I made an offer for $95 and the seller accepted with me paying the $12 shipping cost. The pump includes a check valve, pressure bypass and screen filter. The motor contains ball bearings instead of sleeve bearings and should last for many years.

There is no sandwich adapter for the oil filter but I don't need one because I'll be using a remote mount adapter. There is no documentation but I found a hookup wiring diagram and plumbing diagram posted with a new kit offered on eBay. Also, the furnished wiring (with connectors) are color coded to match what is labeled on the electronic controller. I don't know what the controller does but I assumed that it controls motor run time at start and reduces current flow at start up. The black hose is 0.5 in. internal dia. and rated at 250 psi. The gray hose is 5/8 in. internal dia. and rated at 250 psi. The pump inlet port is 3/8 in. NPT and the outlet port is 1/4 in. NPT. There is an assortment of fittings. The pump assembly weighs 7 pounds is about 8 inches from the bottom of the motor to the top of the pump. The assembly has two different three bolt mounting brackets. One bracket results in the ports facing 90 degrees relative to the mounting surface.

The hex head shown allows cleaning and replacement of the screen filter. The other bracket results in the ports facing 180 degrees relative to the mounting surface and allows easier access to the screen filter.

The limited documentation I found states:
There is a recessed check valve in the outlet port. The top subassembly is the bypass valve and variable clearance compensator housing (what ever that means). If I mount it inverted or horizontally where John (4PointSlow) mounted his intercooler pump (except on the driver side inner wheel well instead of the passenger side) there would only be a few inches of lift relative to the oil pan drain plug required to prime the pump.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Below is the wiring diagram I found on the internet that matches the connections and wire colors of the pre-luber for adding an LED that illuminates when the pump is running.

I set up a test using my battery charger to simulate the battery and my trickle charger to simulate the ignition and my digital voltmeter at the motor connections.

With the ignition off (trickle charger not plugged in) when I plugged in the large battery charger (simulating battery connected) I heard a relay click in the ECM and there was battery charger voltage at the motor connector pins. That would result in a drain on the battery. When I plugged in the trickle charger I heard a hum from the ECM and there was no change in the voltage at the motor connector pins. I left the power on for 5 minutes to see if something timed out. There were no changes.

I kluged together a setup for my first test of the pre-luber. The pump came fitted with -10 (or -12) O ring to 1/4 in. NPT adapter at the outlet port and -10 (or -12) O ring to 3/8 in. NPT adapter at the inlet port. The collection of fittings that came with the pre-luber contained appropriate hose barb fittings for 13/32 in. dia. and 1/2 in. dia. hose that I had on hand. The lift is about 24 inches from the bottom of the bucket containing a gallon of old oil to the top bend of the inlet hose. I inserted a small flat blade screwdriver into the yellow wire connector and connected the battery charger negative alligator clip to the screwdriver shaft. The positive alligator clip is connected to the red wire terminal.

The pump motor ran fast just a few seconds after the battery charger was plugged into the extension cord and then slowed when oil reached the pump. I didn't have time to measure the flow but there was considerable activity in the bucket. Current flow is about 15 amps at turn on and then varies between 10 and 12 amps continuously. The pump is not very quiet laying on the metal step stool but came with 3 mounting insulators that should quiet it some.

Using numerous fittings and hose clamps I was able to set up another test to measure the pre-luber oil flow under pressure.

I installed a 1/8 inch dia. hose barb fitting at the end of the outlet hose. When I plugged in the battery charger I was surprised to see the pressure gauge jump to about 50 psi but then settle to continuous pressure varying from 35 to 37 psi. The pump flow was still more than 1 gpm so I think it will be adequate. I plan to turn the motor on/off with a 30 amp relay controlled by a user programmable delay timer activated by the ignition switch turn on and another manual switch that energizes the relay until the manual switch is turned off. Its the same way the heat exchanger blower is controlled on my Sport.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent work Dale, I like it.

I'm still expecting to run one with an oil pressure switch/sensor at the block. I want to have the "emergency" pump run only when the oil pressure is low, and the ignition is on(with the alternator), or the starter). If I wire it correctly, the pump should run when the starter position is engaged, and just until pressure builds throughout the block(rear oil port). If that works, then the pump would run briefly at the startup each time, and almost never after that.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Don, you made me realize that there will be times that I won't want the pump to run when the ignition is on. One example is if I just want to check the fuel gauge. On my Sport I have a switch that allows me to deactivate the Accusump valve solenoid when the ignition is turned on. I'll have to check if my programmable timer has a manual disable in addition to its manual enable. If not, then I could wire a disable switch into the 30 amp relay solenoid.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I love little relays and circuits to manipulate the functions of a feature.

As one example I learned from, when I first added a switch on my right door panel in 2001ish, I ran full current through the switch, to a flasher, diode, for turn signals. That worked, but it took bigger wires and was trouble to route them, through connectors etc, and at the switch. When I did my 99 Explorer, I thought on it more, and used relays. I used a tiny switch instead, and only relay power goes through it. So if it was to get wet in any way, all it could do is power a relay, low current, and not damage any wiring or the switch. The old big switch would never fit on the top corner of the door panel either.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The oil drain plug port is fairly well protected by the anti-sway bar so I'm less worried about mounting an adapter there for the preluber inlet hose.

I'll install a M14x1.5 to -8 AN male adapter to match the inlet port on the preluber.

I realized that a swivel T fitting shown below would result in the shortest extension.

A cap installed on the right male port will act as an oil pan drain plug. One possible location to install the preluber is the outside of the rail aft of the wheel well.

A possible location for the remote oil filter is shown below.

It would make changing the filter easy but there isn't room for a standard filter and a bypass filter.

 

[CDW6212R]

The bypass oil filter adapter I have is 8.25" long, but the four ports are all at the ends. There is about 2" between the filter pads. How much space have you got there behind the frame body mount? You can install just two simple filter mounts, and use an adapter to accept a bypass filter on one of them. That will let you control where the outlets are too, by choosing filter mounts that have outlets you need.

I have one of those thread adapters to fit a bypass filter. It's available on eBay for about $12. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-Adapter-3-4-16-Thread-to-1-16-Thread-Fleetguard-LF9028/331076892226?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
But the bigger issue to do that, is that there isn't a built in restrictor for the bypass filter, you would have to create one. I didn't like the kinds of fittings or adapters common to buy, to create that kind of restriction(it's about .065" or so(I forgot)). It's not cheaper to have to buy several little adapter components, versus buying the made for bypass adapter as it is.

I just figured I'd have to locate individual filters due to space issues, and thus the thread adapter etc.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I recall a past discussion about the restrictor but I never understood the need for one. The standard full flow filter will have less resistance to oil flow than the bypass filter which filters smaller particles. If the two filters are in parallel the oil pressure at the inlets to both filters will be about equal and the pressure at the outlets of both filters will be about equal but the flow thru the bypass filter will be significantly less than thru the full flow filter. It seems desirable to maximize the flow thru the bypass filter to reduce the time before all of the oil in the system is filtered to the smaller particle size. However, I would not want to restrict the flow thru the standard filter to achieve that sooner. Most (if not all) standard filters have a built in bypass to allow oil flow when the filter is clogged to prevent engine destruction. I don't know if the bypass filter has a bypass valve like the full flow filter but it wouldn't be necessary.

 

[CDW6212R]

I also have wondered what would happen if the bypass filter had no restrictor. I'd guess either the filter media is more fragile and the flow would damage it, or the intent is so the full flow filter will handle the big particles, and not have them reach the bypass filter much. That would be a good discussion to have with designers of the system. I'm fairly sure there is no bypass valve in the bypass filter.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I decided there are too many disadvantages with mounting the preluber aft of the wheel well on the exterior of the frame rail. It would be considerably aft of the oil pan drain plug and the supply from the oil pan to the pump inlet port would have to be routed around the frame rail. Also, it would be exposed to vandalism and theft. A possible location for a smaller preluber is on the inside of the frame rail directly above the anti-sway bar mount below the exhaust manifold heat shield. Unfortunately, there is only about 6 inches of vertical space and I need almost 9 inches.

By the way, while under the vehicle I noticed that the top lower grommet for the anti-sway bar link is missing on both sides.

The only remaining mounting location I've found is the space below the battery tray and above the mounting location for the remote oil filter.

Advantages of the location are protection from physical damage, theft and vandalism and a short hose between the preluber and the remote filter. A disadvantage is limited access complicating installation.

 

[CDW6212R]

That space there looks similar in size to the 2nd gen's location, side of frame ahead of the tire. Would it be tall enough there if you used a piece of flat steel to raise the mounting of the external filter mount? It looks like all mounts are about the same in size/shape, just varying inlet and outlet ports.

If I can mount one higher than the frame like that, which 95-01 is below the battery, only the ABS wire is there really. I'd like to mount two external filters for both oil and trans, and PS for my mail truck if I can find space. My PS fluid is in rough shape now with a whine from the pump. I put new fluid in it last year, but the hard use is probably bad for the stock PS capacity, and heat. Adding a cooler is easy, like a stock oil cooler, but I also need more capacity, and a filter would be good in two ways. I hope to scout those areas soon, I'm now pulling apart my 99 for the trans rebuild.

 

[2000StreetRod]

That space there looks similar in size to the 2nd gen's location, side of frame ahead of the tire. Would it be tall enough there if you used a piece of flat steel to raise the mounting of the external filter mount? It looks like all mounts are about the same in size/shape, just varying inlet and outlet ports.

As I suspect you know, I prefer mounting remote filters behind the bumper on the 2nd generation vehicles.

Once installed they are protected and it's not necessary to remove the bumper to replace the filters. I just have to remove the lower air deflector. I suspect there is poor airflow in the space forward of the wheel well which might not be best for the power steering cooler. Also, the fuel vapor management valve is located above the frame rail on my Sport.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I do recall that emissions solenoid on my 99. The 98 V8 I'm driving has its solenoid nearby, but forward a little more. I'll put a cooler for the PS up front on the lower left side, and a filter I'd like to place there at the frame if I can.

Does your 2000 Sport take the FL1A filter, or the FL820S? I prefer the FL1A mainly because it's larger, but also there is a common larger size that fits too, the Wix 51773 or others. For extended intervals a bigger filter is good.