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Mounty71's 4x4 Long Travel Build
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Trans crossmember done! First I loosely assembled the new front end so I could get an idea of where the driveshaft will be. Bolted up the front driveshaft and made the crossmember to have clearance at max u-joint angle. Also have the radius arm brackets welded on.
turboexplorer
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- 98' XLT 5.0L 4X4
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Subscribing! 
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Ya they were built by Solo years ago, came off that rain gutter Ranger (I believe named Rusty) that was stolen and then recovered a few months ago. 4.5" extended, D44 outer conversion, and all TIG welded. I can't wait either!
josh40601
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drool...
If I ever get tired of the solid axle, I'll be using one of their 44 beam sets under my truck.
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BTW, front LT kit is for sale: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-gen-4-5-long-travel-kit.454758/#post-3584215
Stock transmission also for sale: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-transmission-for-2wd-v8.453357/#post-3584209
Stock transmission also for sale: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-transmission-for-2wd-v8.453357/#post-3584209
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Made huge progress this weekend and am working on it today as well.
I've read that for swapping a 5.0 into Rangers and 1st gen Explorers that a dual dump Mustang oil pan is needed to clear, so I bought one from a member here that had been clearanced for the rear beam mount. Swapped my oil pump and pick up tube, then went to put on the new pan (painted green by the previous owner) and of course it didn't fit. The clearanced section hit the new larger pick up, so we bent the pick up ever so slightly out of the way and got it to work.
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Then I installed a remote oil filter adapter, and it was time to mount the 1st gen steering box. I used the same mounting plates that Brian1 made on JTX's SAS. The box ended up barely squeezing into place and contacting a few things, plus would make getting to the oil filter adapter impossible without lifting the engine or removing the steering box. So I notched into the inside of the frame rails and boxed it all back in to gain a bunch of clearance, and I'm really happy I decided to do that.
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While I was doing all that a couple friends started trimming the TTB crossmember to fit. It fits surprisingly well, like it could have been there originally. And it also looks like the stock oil pan may have fit above the crossmember after all, but now with the extra room I'm hoping I can drop the oil pan without pulling the motor, if I ever have to. I'll get pictures of that when it's in its final position.
I've read that for swapping a 5.0 into Rangers and 1st gen Explorers that a dual dump Mustang oil pan is needed to clear, so I bought one from a member here that had been clearanced for the rear beam mount. Swapped my oil pump and pick up tube, then went to put on the new pan (painted green by the previous owner) and of course it didn't fit. The clearanced section hit the new larger pick up, so we bent the pick up ever so slightly out of the way and got it to work.
%5BURL=http://s167.photobucket.com/user/mounty71/media/A125F102-98B9-41AE-98D5-F4CC122DF054_zpsqjndsov1.jpg.html]
%5BURL=http://s167.photobucket.com/user/mounty71/media/DDD785DB-B06D-4990-B0CA-A34804C00DBB_zpsljq9v4nd.jpg.html]
Then I installed a remote oil filter adapter, and it was time to mount the 1st gen steering box. I used the same mounting plates that Brian1 made on JTX's SAS. The box ended up barely squeezing into place and contacting a few things, plus would make getting to the oil filter adapter impossible without lifting the engine or removing the steering box. So I notched into the inside of the frame rails and boxed it all back in to gain a bunch of clearance, and I'm really happy I decided to do that.
%5BURL=http://s167.photobucket.com/user/mounty71/media/D690690A-9F0A-4985-84ED-CABCBBC82205_zpszc5pwnnz.jpg.html]
%5BURL=http://s167.photobucket.com/user/mounty71/media/F1919265-406F-4A52-90E0-3E247AD170B4_zpsab0xlozl.jpg.html]
%5BURL=http://s167.photobucket.com/user/mounty71/media/6743BD48-69A2-4E3C-AA8D-0D9820265B30_zpsuyhky2ac.jpg.html]
%5BURL=http://s167.photobucket.com/user/mounty71/media/7EACCDD9-585C-47EB-B662-89FDB1B18DB1_zpsvg3nhr1i.jpg.html]
While I was doing all that a couple friends started trimming the TTB crossmember to fit. It fits surprisingly well, like it could have been there originally. And it also looks like the stock oil pan may have fit above the crossmember after all, but now with the extra room I'm hoping I can drop the oil pan without pulling the motor, if I ever have to. I'll get pictures of that when it's in its final position.
josh40601
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I am really debating on stealing your idea for the steering box. Mine is SUPER close on the ranger, and I'm running that relocation kit too. Its so close on mine I don't think I can run hydro assist unless I modify the mounting area or go with a box on the outside of the frame, but that would then be in the way of tires.
Where are you going to run the filter? I have mine zip tied to the engine cage right now. lol
Where are you going to run the filter? I have mine zip tied to the engine cage right now. lol
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Ya that's why I did it, because I didn't see it being possible to have room for the hydro assist lines. And I'm not sure where the filter will go yet.
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Here's the crossmember in its approximate location and the beams hung for the first time.
After a lot of measuring the crossmember is as close to centered and square as I can possibly get it. Seems as though after all the years of abuse this truck has seen, the body and frame aren't exactly centered over each other anymore. I just need to trim the bottom of the motor mounts now and clean up the crossmember, make some gussets and the crossmember can go on hopefully for good.
Just for reassurance, can someone tell me what the distance is on a stock 1st gen from the back of the pitman arm to the front edge of the crossmember?
After a lot of measuring the crossmember is as close to centered and square as I can possibly get it. Seems as though after all the years of abuse this truck has seen, the body and frame aren't exactly centered over each other anymore. I just need to trim the bottom of the motor mounts now and clean up the crossmember, make some gussets and the crossmember can go on hopefully for good.
Just for reassurance, can someone tell me what the distance is on a stock 1st gen from the back of the pitman arm to the front edge of the crossmember?
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Spent most of Saturday resealing my steering box and drilling and tapping it for hydro-assist. I just plugged the ports for now and will tackle that later. Also finished up a bunch of welding. Today got the crossmember in its final position and tacked into place, got a wheel and 35" tire on and set the wheelbase at 113". Started on the radius arms too! Tire-to-body position is approximately what ride height will be.
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According to the Google the 1st gen is 111.9" vs. the 2nd gen at 111.6". I really don't have the room to extend the wheelbase any more than what I have it at now. And I got the measurement, thanks.
josh40601
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yea... i guess i could have googled it too. lol I thought the wheel base was much longer than that. News to me!
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I have this whole week off work so I've been getting a lot done! Built radius arms, plated and boxed the beams, welded in the uniball cups, and finished the radius arm tabs on the back of the beams. The driver's beam was bumping out on the middle of the crossmember and earlier than the passenger beam, so to help with that I raised the crossmember as much as I could, which required cutting a lot of the motor mounts out and then notching into the frame so the diff part of the beam wouldn't hit. Now the beam bottoms out on the frame instead of the crossmember and I got a little more bump travel on that side.
Pretty stoked on my welding on these
I trimmed down the tabs for the radius arms so I can fit a secondary shock as far in towards the radius arm and as far down as possible
I'm using the shock tabs on the front of the beam for coilovers, and the tabs on top are being cut off
I realized that at ride height I have about 7* of negative camber so I will probably need to remove some of the "cut and turn".
And after some deliberation I decided that I'm just tired of my SwayAways leaking like crazy after every rebuild, so I am selling all my SAW stuff and I ordered some new King 2.5x12" coilovers. Should be here tomorrow!
Pretty stoked on my welding on these
I trimmed down the tabs for the radius arms so I can fit a secondary shock as far in towards the radius arm and as far down as possible
I'm using the shock tabs on the front of the beam for coilovers, and the tabs on top are being cut off
I realized that at ride height I have about 7* of negative camber so I will probably need to remove some of the "cut and turn".
And after some deliberation I decided that I'm just tired of my SwayAways leaking like crazy after every rebuild, so I am selling all my SAW stuff and I ordered some new King 2.5x12" coilovers. Should be here tomorrow!
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