Multiple Codes and battery drainage | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Multiple Codes and battery drainage

anthonycurran

New Member
Joined
October 17, 2013
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Ford Explorer
My 01 Explorer began running rough. After running for more than 15 min. Driving it will get a surge in rpm's then cut out and dies. I took it to a shop and they say that it is putting out multiple random codes even after clearing. They say that I have to take it to a electrical shop due to a short. I brought it home and I notice that after 24 hrs in the garage my battery was dead I then charged it and run it for a while and then again after 24 hrs its dead again. In re of the codes they are from evap to ignition to security. Does anyone know what is going on I would like to fix this issue before paying $80 per hour for diagnosis. If it helps I can list all the codes that the shop found. Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Don't sound good.
Could be a bad main ground..short or who knows.
Start with the basics.
Battery...how old?
Alt...How many volts will it put out?
Fuse boxes look dry and clean?
 






Like Dave said. Start simple. Be sure battery is healthy, fully charged, and load tested.(CCA's checked) Local parts store can do this for you if you do not have the tools. 12.4-12.6V. To check alternator- read battery voltage with car running and all accessories on.(hi-beam headlights,wipers,radio,A/C..) It should read between 13.5V-14.5V(or at the very least .5V higher than battery voltage)
Now you can do a "parasitic draw test" to find what is draining your battery. Be sure to check for blown fuses while doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
A drained battery(bad battery or bad alternator) can certainly cause your vehicle to dye while driving.
Do the test then report back. You could have a variety of issues though. But attack your draining issue first.
I would hope the shop you went to at least did these tests. But, I would question the competence of a shop that would just send you on your way. A good shop would have called in a competent electrical tech if they couldn't resolve the issue.
Good luck and I hope it's something simple.
 






Posting the codes is necessary.

After charging the battery, pull the alternator fuse in the power dist box under the hood and let it set all night and see if the battery is still dead in the morning.
 






How old is the battery?

Reason I ask-I had experienced a bad batery that walmart tested and found"good"

It would die overnight. It had an internal short only found once they "load tested" it for an extended all day long test.

Now bear with me here-
if a battery is dying and the alternator fuse is blown, it is not uncommon for all kinds of code to come up.
I almost bet the codes are not present until the battery voltage gets down to less than 11v, which is a good thing because if the fault were in the wiring, as in a dead short to an engine component the codes would show right away.

Once the battery is charged full:

Does everything in the truck work? all lights bells whistles, windows, locks? Does setting the alarm result in one horn tone?

Just for giggles, disconnect the battery and let it sit once charged. see if the voltage drops overnight sitting disconnected. You "could" have both a bad battery and a bad alternator. A high charge demand from a shorted battery can indeed knock out an alternator.
 






How old is the battery?

Reason I ask-I had experienced a bad batery that walmart tested and found"good"

It would die overnight. It had an internal short only found once they "load tested" it for an extended all day long test.

Now bear with me here-
if a battery is dying and the alternator fuse is blown, it is not uncommon for all kinds of code to come up.
I almost bet the codes are not present until the battery voltage gets down to less than 11v, which is a good thing because if the fault were in the wiring, as in a dead short to an engine component the codes would show right away.

Once the battery is charged full:

Does everything in the truck work? all lights bells whistles, windows, locks? Does setting the alarm result in one horn tone?

Just for giggles, disconnect the battery and let it sit once charged. see if the voltage drops overnight sitting disconnected. You "could" have both a bad battery and a bad alternator. A high charge demand from a shorted battery can indeed knock out an alternator.
:thumbsup:
 






Featured Content

Back
Top