How to: "My A4LD Rebuild Diary - Part 3, 2nd half - Reassembly

[Glacier991]

Extension Housing/ Parking Pawl

Back end of the case on the 4x4 has an "extension housing"that connects to the transfer case....within that is the parking pawl... that thing that keeps your Ex from rolling away in park. We'll install them next.

The parking pawl is an odd creature... it consists of a smallish spring...

which fits over a post

which then adds spring pressure to the pawl...

Now we are ready to install. I gooped the seal with sealant...

repeated it on the other side and bolted it into place... you have to work the manual lever into the parking pawl hole, but it's not difficult... once you have it... BANG! it slides home and everything lines up... Bolt that baby HOME!

Done!

 

[Glacier991]

The PAN

I had hoped to be adding an aftermarket cast pan.... and will... but for now we are reattaching the stock pan.... but wait! I had a MOD !!!

Can you figure out what I added?

Yeah... ceramic magnets. I bought em at Radio Shack.
Make sure you don't put em in the filter cutout or it will not fit properly.
Where I put em is not gospel, but it works!

Put a gasket on the pan rail....

make sure the pan fits ok over the filter snout and bolt that puppy on....

Now I have put on my share of pans, and never torqued one,. but since this is all being done "right" and sicne I just had the torque wrench sittin there, I torqued the pan... 100 inch lbs if you please.

Pan in place... a little paint to hide any blemishes...

Guess what guys? WE JUST REBUILT THE A4LD !!!

Who's buyin?

This isn't a great pic, but here it is all together, right side up.... finished!
(I'll add more and better finished pics later...)

THANKS ALL FOR YOUR KIND WORDS AND FOR STAYING WITH ME ON THIS LONG JOURNEY. I HOPE THIS HELPS SOME OF YOU. READ THE POSTSCRIPT ABOUT "BORROWING" MY TOOLS TO DO THIS YOURSELF TOO !

 

[Glacier991]

A few details.... seems like they ought to go here. The heatshield is an important part of this transmission. It goes like so....covers the servos and the modulator and protects them from the heat of the CAT...

notice the blue double headed bolt... that's where it attaches (there and with slips on the pan rail) Here's another view...

here's some detail of the 2 clips...

(post 127 here)

and a look closeup at the secure attachment point on the modulator bracket...

I am going to install the heat shield after the trannie is installed and the cooler lines connected.... it will just get damaged on installation otherwise I suspect.

 

[Glacier991]

A quick walkaround on some of the places we may need to touch this trannie once it is installed... much easier to visualize out of the car...to Start - the bands....The adjustment screw(bolt) for the intermediate

farther front - the OD band

I'll do another thread on the use of a transmission pressure gauge, but on the A4LD it goes in here... shown on the empty case, with the plug removed. The bore ahead of it is the throttle shaft/shifter bore.

here it is (bad pic, sorry) on the transmission as it is assembled...

 

[Glacier991]

One last item before we reinstall the transmission.. .the Torque Convertor. Remember that if you had metal contamination DO NOT REUSE THE OLD ONE.... and when and if you get a new one, a HD Low stall and brazed one will be your best friend long term...(and if you can measure it... I am not thrilled with mine... it was .003 over supposed max rebuild end play... (and way under the used numbers, which is why I decided to use it anyway))...ok moving on... lube the TC shaft with vaseline and carefully! (later FORD introduced handles to make this easier) insert it into the transmission through the seal... rotate it with light pressure inward and in one or more steps it will jolt deeper into the case and eventually bottom...

Now measure to the end of the pilot...using a strainghtedge across the bellhousing....

and we get a reading of....

acceptable range is .375 - .625... so we are midpoint. Perfect. If you had installed the driven gear bevel side inward, I doubt you'd get this measurement, so here is a check.

Oh and, once you are this far, here's a suggestion. Once the TC is installed.... leave it. put the separator plate on the bell and secure it with ties....

add some styrofoam, a rag, something... and call it ready... (remember to remove this before bolt up <g>....

 

[Glacier991]

Sheesh. I ask who's buyin... and no takers! After all this? not a single offer of a cold one?

 

[Brain]

Come on up to Golden and you can have three free cold ones a day at the Coors brewery...doesn't get any fresher than that! That's one of the reasons I haven't left this place ; ) "Where everybody knows your naaaame, and you're always glad you caaaaame"

 

[Glacier991]

Sure... Golden.... where the School of Mines has a Carbide Lamp waitin and a canary with your name on em... <g>

ok ok I LIKE Golden. Speakin as an old UC Buff here.

 

[Az_NavajoRob]

Glacier - WOW!, what an amazing write-up. If you're ever in Tucson, look me up so I can buy you a beer.

Anyway, just wanted to share a tip with you. To get the metal interlocking rings (like on the pump boby)out, do the following: With your right thumb just to the right of where the two rings lock together, push the ring all the way down into the groove. Now slide your index finger clockwise around the ring, pushing it in like your thumb is. When you get about 3/4ths of the way around, you should see the unheld side of the ring come up and clear the other end. with your left hand, use a pick or just grab it and pull it clear. This also works with O-rings.

 

[Glacier991]

Hey AzNavajoRob... thanks for the kind words, and THANK YOU for that tip! Makes perfect sense to me.