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My A4LD Rebuild Diary - Pt 4 - Postscript

Glacier991

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The ZC is 2.317. And if you go to the FIRST post in the Diary I believe it links all 4 threads there. I'll double check and if not I'll fix it.

[edit] it was there. Brooklyn yer making more work for me again!
 



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BrooklynBay

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Thanks for the information. Do you think the specifications are wrong on Aceomatic's website for listing a larger size? I wonder if they just made their part a little bigger to increase the pressure above the OEM specifications. I did see mistakes in other listing that they have on both their website, and in the catalog. I brought it to one of the tech's attention. He said that they would look into it, but the mistakes are still on their website.
 






BrooklynBay

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I'm sorry to make more work for you. It was just that in the sticky above, it stops by the end of the 3rd part. I thought that maybe it would just continue into this thread like the other 3 parts. Anyway, could this be a sticky thread listed underneath the 3 part diary in the stickies above?
 






Glacier991

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I don't know. (Yet again, I am saying that more and more) The Axiom (Aceomatic's current name) catalog only lists the ZC as the biggest. Yet I have heard of an "F" ... somewhere somehow.... could THAT be the bigger one? I dunno. For me the ZC is fine.
 






BrooklynBay

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BrooklynBay

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songspinr

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Is there an exploded view of the A4LD?

I am having difficulty getting the thing back together. I get everything stacked correctly, I think, and I lack a 1/32 in. so the center support doesn't seat properly. Any pictures or ideas to help find the extra 1/32?
 






BrooklynBay

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songspinr

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Thanks

Thanks again. You are the Man! I'll be driving in on time. I'm working with a bunch of gearheads that don't know anything about automatic Tranny's so I'm learning as I go. Thanks for your patients.
 






songspinr

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I have followed your advice in these pages and did what I thought was a correct rebuild. Here is where the real novice in me comes out. the A4LD is back in, and because it sat, got a new torque converter, but when I went to test drive...nothing. Just spun, I'd guess, but didn't even try to engage. Any ideas? I'm out of 'em, and I would really like to see my truck back in business.
 












stocki

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seal protectors

the pictured seal protectors are very expensive and nearly unobtainable over here in Europe. Are they absolutely necessary for a rebuild, or is there any substitution ?

Thanks,
Stocki
 






BrooklynBay

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They are good to have, but not absolutely necessary. Here is a universal lip seal installation tool: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Transmission_lip_seal_installer_tool_p/300-000jt0015.htm
300-000JT0015-2.jpg

Lubegard makes a universal cone seal driver kit called Seal-E-Zee: http://lubegard.com/~/C-191/LUBEGARD+Seal-E-Zee+Step+1
http://lubegard.com/~/C-193/LUBEGARD+Seal-E-Zee+Application+Cone+Set
item17_box4.gif

An alternative is to place the part with the seal in the freezer prior to installation.
 






duster623

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the rear sun shell, reverse clutch, forward drum and clutch assembly

hey i have a question. i am rebuilding one of these things mostly it has gone decent the rear sun shell, reverse clutch, forward drum and clutch assembly id my sticky issue i put it together several times and when the two shell pieces come together like the egg there is a small gap between them only about a 1/16 of an inch not sure if that is normal or within tolerance, about the only way to eliminate it that i can find is to remove the thrust washer from it.(no i dont plan on doing that lol)the clutches all seem to line up in the groove when I try and then slide pieces out carefully. i figured if this thread is still running I may be able to get a couble check. i have a few days before my last parts come in . one other question is i had a pain tring to get the pin out for the linkage, so I ordered the pin remover tool(looks like a hollow drill bit, any one have any experience on that tool, looks simple enough use the pin to center the bit an drill in slightly not going in too deep , just seeing if I should even attempt it :usa:
 






BrooklynBay

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Welcome to this forum! Don't use a drill bit. Take two flat screwdrivers, and grab the pin. A little space in the sun shell is normal just as long as it's not the snap design which is a close fit.
 






duster623

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As far as the pin it is not a drill bit per say it has a hollow point to ride on the pin so you can get a better bite and comes with pins that taper down to the origional size from the new size. As far as the gap I am glad to hear that it is not a snap lock design or anything just 2 toothed pieces that fit together and has a small gap probably about the thickness o a nickel or so. I figured It would be acceptable all the hard parts were fine and I was caution on order of parts . The Trans just had a shifting issue where it Wouldnt shift correctly on first run you had to manually shift the first time then it would. I swapped with a used one and it messed up on me where it would drive in any gear as long as I didn't shift into over drive then it wouldn't go anywhere in any gear until I let it rest in park. I decided to rebuild the origional one. I assume it's issue is in the valvebody or governor but I get tired of replacing same parts lol figure best to rebuild so I can say I trust it more. I plan on checking the tolerances even though I assume they are good being it is origional parts except for clutches I just need to make the guage for it I bought the micrometer and depth guage.
 






duster623

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2 question

hey guys i started this build about a month ago with the purpose of not rushing myself, but due to other things happening at the same time i am starting to lax on that . i have 2 main questions the first is about the seals on the center support, i origionally swapped them out of my kit and basically sized them by popping it in the center support for aday or 3 but when I went to put the parts back in i had to put it in and out a couple times and i cut a seal. i asked WIT trans for a couple more and they gave me a oring that to me looks a little thinner, and more what worries me it did not have the white color code on the outsidethe p/n supposedly being 56179v (may have had 2 blue stripes) for now i stuck one of them on there. question is is that stripe that important, should i just go through the hassle to get one from another source, i just dont have enough experience. the other issue i am wondering about is i put the clutch packs , sun gear and other pieces that go between the center support and reverse drum together (looks like an egg with the castle tower like teeth that locks together) which i have asked about before.... some space is between the teeth which is supposedly fine (about a 1/16 of an inch or maybe the size of a pencil tip off a =2 pencil) but when i put it in and the center support in i can only turn the output shaft one way... i am sure it is not part of the tech manual to do that but my thought is i believe it should be able to go both ways and if i cant then most likely i am binding up. i know i am supposed to take the measurement befor i put it all togetherand i have tools and plan too. i figure it should be fine as the only parts that have changed is the clutches and steels(all other hard parts were fine ) so the clearances should be there .... i have come too far to start rushing now i miss my mustang and figure talking to you guys will at least give me a good reason to not rush i would hate to pull it out due to a bad oring choice... thanks to all this thread rocks:salute:
 






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