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My BII Project

changed over my fuel lines today. This is what I took out, not sure how I dident have any fuel leak any place. Only one pcs of a return line was not cut. When I took the fuel lines off the tank they just slipped right off. The return line had a actual fuel line fitting on the end but with no clip, and the main fuel line was just pushed on and the end was just a rubber fuel line. it was quite easy to take out and put a new one in. I also put a new fuel pump plug on. My gas guage works now! And it is not so sluggish. Works much better,
well here is some pics to show what took off......
Kind scary

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410 just wanted to know if at all possible if you can scan your fuse cover. I am having huge problems with little things in the truck. No idea what is what on the fuse box. My Inside light does not work, my lighter does not work, no sound when I open the door etc... It would be very nice of you :)
One of these days I will send you some GOOD STRONG CANADIAN BEER :)
well strong compared to your American beer. Might be able to get it there cold also.... hrrmmm
 






is a stock 8.8 from an explorer stock with Limited Slip? seems I have found 3 8.8's with LS
 






hey sorry, do you still need the fuse cover diagram?
3.55 and 3.73 limited slip are the most common Explorer 8.8 91-2001
 






yeah the fuse cover diagram would be killer. I was looking at them yesterday, I had no idea what I was looking at. Than it started to rain, and well its still raining. It tends to rain for months on end here in BC in the winter time. No snow, just rain. I have a 8.8 and a D35 I am waiting on. Hope to swap it over for x-mass break. Have one week off. I paid $400 for both, 100% complete, and with drive shafts. What am I going to need to get done with the drive shafts? Do I put the D35 than the 8.8 than look to see what I need to do with the drive shafts? Or can the be planed out before hand? Also is it possible to take the 8.8 and have it SOA and change the shock mounts before I put it under the truck?
 






yikes

driveshaft for the rear is last

Unless you run new lift your front d shaft should bolt in

yes the 8.8 can be prepped/comnverted to spring over before you install it, I did mine out of the truck, BUT I set it next to the 7.5" so the truck was on jack stands.

Also if I was going to do it again I would mock it up under the truck, then tack weld it after centering it and setting the pinion angle, then remove again and weld it up. You will have to adapt brake lines, e brake cables, cut off the old mounts, and prep the 8.8, it is quite a bit of work.
You should also get new U bolts made and I found some Ranger U 8.8 bolt plates work great instead of trying to use Explorer ones with the shock ears on them.
 






Found some one that is going to swap my 8.8 and my D35 for $200, He can get it done in a weekend. He has a 94 explorer that he is parting out. So he has all parts and D-shafts, he can shorten the d-shaft as well. So all in all $600 for the D35 8.8 and installed. thats with a Spring over axle as well. I hope to get it done this weekend. I also picked up a pair of Fiberglass fenders, around 6" flair. Hand laid fiberglass. Any pointers on those? They are from a 88 ranger, I noticed they have no holes for the side blinker.... But same style you have 410
 






okay got one fender on. Did it at lunch time, at work, do the other one tomorrow... Now I deffently can take some of my body lift out to fit the 35" tires
I will need to tuck up some wires and what not, and paint them. little before and after. Very easy to put in.
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I like the front (rear) bumper. :D
Fenders look good. Once you get the 35s on there it will be the black cousin of 410. :)

funny, haha front rear bumper... but thats what it is! hahah just waiting to get in **** for it some how... But belive it or not those are 35" tires on there now. The truck just has some body lift problems..... meaning TOO MUCH!
it needs to get cut down. Just woundering what to do to the back.
 






friggin sweet, the BII looks so killer with front glass.
I clear 35x12.5 on 15x8 with 3.75" backspacing with 4.5" of suspension, urethane body mounts (no lift) and Autofab 4" glass, and I am talking CLEAR, full bump, full droop, full lock

I made some nice ABS plastic inner fender liners to help keep the ice out of my door hinges and water out of the air intake this summer, I'll try to get some pictures, they are not installed right now (working on headers this summer) but I'll install them and get pictures soon, they really clean up the look of the glass.
I used some LED side markers and wired them in to work with turn signals and parking lamps :) Safety first hahaha
 






The truck just has some body lift problems..... meaning TOO MUCH!

Any amount of body lift is too much (for me at least). :D
I say take out the BL completely and cut or bend anything you need to clear the tires.
 






so what did you need to do to the rear to clear without trimming?
 






I have Skyjacker 4" leaf springs, stock shackles, and a 2" tappered Superlift lift block in the rear, 8.8 is converted to spring over using weld on style Warrior spring perches.
I clear 35x12.50 Goodyear MTR's 100% at full stuff (see BII forum banner) 100%, I took a 4" disc grinder and took about 1/4" off the inside of the lip on the rear bed sides, it took me about 5 minutes per side and I did it jsut because when I first put the 35's on they were getting cut just slightly on edge of the lugs, now it clears 100%.

I plan to actually pull the metal bed sides when I go to 37's and move my rear axle back a bit :)
 






Whynot go with somthing like this? $300 for both sides 3" fiberglass...
Good to know about the rear. I have the same 4" leafs and 2" block



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Looking in my book here and it shows it stock with a SOA
 






BII's are spring over
Since Skyjacker coils and leafs sag quite a bit, I am sitting at about 5" of total suspension over a factory BII (with 4 door ex leaves) and my 6" coils up front are right at about 4.5" over a factory BII with a dana 35 and Explorer coils hahaha

The rear glass is ugly, I do not like the seems around the brake lights, the rear hatch, or along the bottom of the window. When I cage my BII my metal bed sides will be just that anyways, metal sides, I am not even sure I will have any cargo area floor it should all be tube so the sides will just be metal skins by then anyways (more like a Ranger bed then a SUV anymore) I may keep some wheel tubs of some sort though for noise and weather....
 






If I have the option to get this 8.8 and D35 welded should I go for it? He may beable to weld it up when he swaps it in. Now I know it will make for a ruff ride on turns but is it actually worth my while? If its too hard on the rear is it a good idea to just get the D35 done? Because it is only used when I go in the woods
:thumbdwn: :thumbsup:

:confused:
 



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Just make sure he welds the **** out of it! Your also going to ruin the carrier. I ran my Dana 35 welded, its not to bad the only part that sucks is having to get out and unlock a hub everytime you turn.
 






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