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My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie? :eek:

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank :(
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

347 at Ford Strokers.jpg
 
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vroomzoomboom

Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS!
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ive had them spin in roof racks, and mirrors off the top of my head. not fun. i am wounding if u clips like used for bolting fenders onto the fender apron would work. i can always grab some of those while im getting the cooler.
 
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CDW6212R

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The OEM self tapping bolts work well in any thick steel, the thicker sandwiched parts of the radiator they would hold onto. Those bolts are rare, older Fords have them on the coil brackets, fender starter solenoids. We have four in the frame holding the big plastic air dam under the radiator support. Those four are big and great for use in the frame etc.

For the trans line, flare them to match the OEM end type(rear end at trans), which match the steel 3/8" fuel lines you can buy from parts stores. Use o-rings in the flare fittings to seal better without having to torque the fittings so tight.

There's a perfect spot for a filter behind each frame horn, mounted to the radiator support(bolts in the pocket where the frame mount is). With the bumper off, you can easily get at the radiator support there.

RF oil filter mounting.jpg


Projectthread110.JPG
 
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Dono

347 V8 Limited turbo
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I'll try flairing again, but my last attempt was a Fail, with a capital F. I know flairing like factory would be best.
The last time, I borrowed a tool, and the line would just slide in the clamp.
Here's the one I'll try this time:
Double Flaring Tool Kit | Princess Auto
 
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CDW6212R

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The quality of the flared in is related directly to the tool quality. The clamp section is the most important, cheap brands are more likely to not hold the line well.

I have a cheap tool kit also, and I borrowed a good brand version when I did the ABS lines of a 95 Crown Vic(I added ABS to the car). I flared four ends in the middle of the car to join two full length lines(4 channel ABS system), which I had to cut to remove from donor cars. The fittings I created didn't leak fortunately, it's still working.

You can do it, double flare the ends for a best result quality. Practice a few times with spare line, it just takes a few to get used to doing it.
 
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4pointslow

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Don't cut the line... Unless you really want leaks.
Just add the second cooler where the hoses already are.

You should test pressure before you do anything.
What if your are not hitting 80 psi line pressure and there is another problem causing the repeated thrust bearing failure.
 
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CDW6212R

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Ditto, I'd maintain the radiator cooler at least until you have a method(T'stat) to control flow to the other coolers.
 
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Dono

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I have no idea how I can test line pressure without cutting the line. Its hard line all the way from the line out of the trans to the top of the radiator.
I'm open to suggestions.

I agree its not exactly ideal making more joints than necessary.
 
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delexploder

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ditch the factory lines all together and go with braided line and A/N fittings with a tee on both in and out and pressure guages on both , use a B&M cooler with a fan , this is what my friend runs on his turbo 347 4r70w mustang
 
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Dono

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Funny, Tim and I discussed braided line. I was just concerned about keeping it secure and out of the way of things.
This might be the way to go though.

The flair tool was a fail. I ended up using the compression fitting on one of the lines going to the aux cooler as a test as I had previously shortened the hard line due to inter cooler space issues. I think they actually work really well. I'll only know when its under line pressure though.

I'm still back on the 'do I cut that line out from the trans to the rad?'
I think I have to if I'm going to check that line pressure. And, If I need cut that line with the motor in, at a minimum the rad will have to come out. More research required. At a minimum, the second cooler is going in in the same configuration as skpyle. That config doesn't cut any hard lines.

edit: This might be the easiest way to start, and not cut the hard line unless it becomes a requirement.
 
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GoldV8Ranger

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Hey Dono, Ive been through the whole new transmssion lines from the transmission up to the radiator. DONT USE THE COMPRESSION FITTINGS. I jst finished my V8 swap into my ranger and i had two of those compressions on there to scab a couple pieces together and within a week of driving, the heads of those fittings cracked and started leaking. I know its a pain in the a** but flare all fittings and get the correct screw together fittings that you can use pipe thread sealant on and never have to worry about it again
 
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Dono

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ok, so now I need to find a flare tool that works. I have a feeling this is going to cost me.
 
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GoldV8Ranger

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I know mine was about 50 bucks US and I just took my time with it and they arent the best ones on the planet but they’ve worked for over 500 miles
 
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4pointslow

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ditto on don't use compression fittings and don't cut the lines
 
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Dono

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I tried the cheaper one, and the line just pushed thru the clamp as I was pressing the die in to the end of the line.
I'm not sure what I could be doing wrong, as it seems pretty straight forward. The factory line seems too hard of a steel. I could probably bend my own starting with a new line as the new stuff seems much softer.

4point, I still need to flare the two lines that needed to be (and were) cut back where the aux cooler was attached as the intercooler ended up in the way. At a minimum, I need to figure this part out.
 
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4pointslow

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Get a test piece of trans line to try out a flare tool if you are insisting on going that route
My flare tool that does 5/8 stainless was $400.00 just for reference
There are also hydraulic ones that are nice to have but I have not found one rated as high as the 400 manual one I got.

Cant you see what line pressure is in the datalogger? I thought there was a pid for it
There is also a line test port on side of most transmissions
Or am I confusing the names of the pressures
 
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Dono

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I can't datalog pressure, maybe too old of a pcm? I can, and will, use that test port for pressure testing when the motor is back in.

What I still need to sort out is where the aux cooler soft line attaches to the hard line at the factory. The flair end was cut back as it was in the way of the intercooler mount. Now, I'd like to get a flare end back on these two ends so the soft line doesn't want to seep anymore.

It will probably be best at this point to phone around till I find someone with a higher end flare tool and take the two lines to them.
 
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GoldV8Ranger

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I believe the new lines you can buy are a softer material. I had the same problem of trying to flare the stock so I gave up and put all new lines. One main thing, since i don't know how much bending there will be, but dont skimp on a bender, I've seen a cheap bender barely kink lines and they've caused overheating issues. Just another thing to keep in mind
 
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4pointslow

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Line pressure is the pressure coming out the pump so that tap was made to test that, have you found the location of the Line test port on your trans?
Do you have 4R70 or 4R100? I forget what they put inot the V8's.

There are different types of things that some nice flare tools can do like a bubble ended or even the quick disconnect fuel filter fitting type of flare. I don't know how to word that any better. lol
You might be able to just have a bubble type of flare done to the ends to keep the trans hoses from blowing off or leaking.

That's a good idea to see if someone has one that can just do the flare for you, save money and time maybe.
If you have the lines off I would expect they wouldn't charge that much.
Maybe a trans guy near you might have a good hydraulic one.
 
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delexploder

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Another option would be to take the line off and take it to a shop that dose hydraulic lines for tractors and such and have them make what you want
 
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Dono

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I'm going to call the whole flare thing a fail. The two cut lines that I still need to deal with are made by Dorman. Might not be the best quality, but better than what I could do myself. If the line is a bit softer, that's even better for me as it will be easy to deal with the inter-cooler interference with a slight bend.

4point, 4r70w. I now know there is a test port on the drivers side of the transmission for line pressure. This will solve my pressure testing issue.

edit: although, these guys should be able to take care of me.
Dynamic Fluid Power and Westcan Hydraulic Lines | Dynamic Machine Corporation
 
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