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My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie? :eek:

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank :(
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

347 at Ford Strokers.jpg
 


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Dono

347 V8 Limited turbo
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I'm not sure if the valves should be rotating or not. No clue on that.
It's all interesting. I know the new build will have a far more critical eye looking at each and every aspect of the pieces and how they go together. Now, I just need to stay out of the builders way. He said he will be posting progress pictures to his facebook, and sending some to me.

I'm still very interested that he wants to go forged and diamond coated crank. Tim thinks it's maybe because he's trying to protect me against more damage in the event of another thrust failure. The internet says a forged crank is useless in a stock block, but then again the internet also says a stock block will crack. The builder says the stock block cracks due to improper balance, vibration, bad tuning, etc. He could tell from the burn pattern in the chamber that my tune was spot on with no detonation, but that with the new motor the tune will need to change drastically.

Next on my list is to email Don Lasota and ask him about adjusting trans line pressures in the tune. It looks like there is a torque table that has everything to do with line pressure. I'd rather start will a little less pressure than a little more. lol. Also, I'm sure the HV oil pump will help with the thrust issue also. Did I mention how excited I am about the block being made to work with the longer pump? lol.
 


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vroomzoomboom

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don showed me the list and things that are going to be done on his new motor. i see a low 12 coming out of it.
 




Turdle

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https://www.quora.com/What-is-valve-rotation

The valve has to rotate to keep the seal, and, to prevent weakening of any of the vale or seat surfaces

Here is a cutaway video, different engine of course but you will see the valve rotating.

about 1:35 in the video you'll see the painted dot on the valvespring do what it is supposed to do.
 




CDW6212R

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I don't think that engine had any balancing problems, it was the valve train obviously, but I would ask about the method they use to balance the assembly. There are a bunch of parts used for the process, bob weights chosen from the engine components, like the balancer.

Evidently there is some variation on balancer weight quality(location of weight versus the center(moment of force)), which affects true imbalance weight. Plus people who do the balancing select a level of imbalance to accept as a pass grade. Make sure that the exact balancer used, is given to the balancing person, the flexplate too. And ask them to get it as close to perfect as possible.

I think the builder wants a forged crank because those will flex less than a cast crank, and the flexing is a major component of a stock block cracking. It twists the block mains, the caps move a little, and it all transmits up through the block. I hadn't read of a forged crank specifically helping a stock block survive, but it makes sense to think of it that way.

The final wheel horsepower will be limited by the airflow that runs into the TB, and out the tailpipe. Restrictions in the inlet or exhaust are more important for boosted or high power engines. Keep working on all of it.
 




Dono

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yea, this pretty much goes without saying.
Tim had his rotating assembly balanced by this guy. I think it came out well under a gram.

I did ask how he plans on balancing to 28oz imbalance when the crank is a zero balance crank, and my flex plate and harmonic balancer are 28oz. The answer was that the cranks always come heavy, and he wont need to remove much material to get the crank to 28oz.

All that being said, I think I'll email damperdudes and see if they can source a zero balance explorer damper. I'd love to be zero balance on the motor.
 




vroomzoomboom

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yea, this pretty much goes without saying.
Tim had his rotating assembly balanced by this guy. I think it came out well under a gram.

.3 grams. tolerance was 5 grams

i do believe ahodges is zero balanced
 




CDW6212R

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.3 grams. tolerance was 5 grams

i do believe ahodges is zero balanced

That's great, the better the balance is the smoother the engine runs(crank/rods/pistons). I wish the valvetrain could be quieter. I know the roller rockers have that common sound, but I'd think the better roller system could be much quieter than they are.

That 14k OHC engine video is nuts, I didn't think the springs would move any at all.
 




Dono

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Damper dudes can do the zero balance harmonic balancer, and prw has the zero balance flex plate. I just checked with the builder and he said even though the crank is zero balance, the assembly may want to go the 28oz imbalance direction. He wants me to wait until he gets all the parts and spins the internal assembly. Then a decision will be made. He is looking for a zero balance motor as preference, as we all know.
 




CDW6212R

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Excellent, that says a lot about the engine builder/machinist. Good planning, now is the time to make it all right.
 




Dono

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Don Lasota was quick to respond, as he always is.
Here's his thoughts on tuning and line pressure.
"I doubt it is the line pressure – when that is raised it is better for trans life. The enclosed tune is the last one we sent you 8/23/17 with the line pressure stock.

My guess is the converter is the issue. Or if you happen to run an Eagle crankshaft or and other non-OEM crank. We had a real issue on one of our vehicles with an Eagle crank – kept eating up thrust bearings.

The aftermarket VBs can be an issue too."


I was doing a bunch of reading, and thought the torque table needed to be lowered to reduce line pressure. This was not one of the tables Don lowered, and it is currently quite a bit higher than factory. I'll take the trans settings he sent me and import them in to my current tune. I'm also going to take a chance at lowering the torque table for the initial truck start up while I am measuring the trans pressures. I can always raise these values at a later date.

TC is being replaced. I'm reasonably confident that the lentech valve body is not the issue, but there is no way to be certain. I remember that when the Valve body was installed initially, that's when I spotted the wiped out thrust bearing last time. It wasn't an eagle crank, but I will be sure to check tc pilot to crank to make sure it can't bottom out in the crank.
 




shucker1

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@Dono \ @gmanpaint ,

Gmanpaint....yea,I'm sure its a trans pressure issue now. those tight L connections I added in the cooler lines couldn't have been a good thing.

Thanks for the tip. I almost made the same mistake. After destroying my transmission lines I was going braided SST brake hose and using @CDW6212R suggestion of internal radiator cooler delete and going full external with a thermostat.

Hose routing was going to make some hard 90's but as per your comment the eventual design will change.

I watch and learn from the best.
 




Dono

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I guess that's why were here. We post the success's and the failures so we can all learn.
I'm really hoping Iv'e already fixed my thrust bearing issue, but just don't know it for sure yet.
 




gmanpaint

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Those that liver way down under America's Hat, can get by without the trans tank in the radiator. It heats, not cools, and calling it the cooler is stupid. lol

I bypassed the tank, and installed a larger cooler and a pusher fan for it. Trans heats up just fine by itself.

I see Don's thoughts was on par with mine. I like him, and don't even know him. :D
 




vroomzoomboom

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I see Don's thoughts was on par with mine. I like him, and don't even know him. :D

Ya know you could always come for a drive up here and meet the guy. I heard there is another member near him as well, but that guy is chopped liver I guess
 




shucker1

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Perhaps one day if I ever get my project finished (Before I Croak)....

Then again I have to get a passport to come up there I think?
 




gmanpaint

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Ya know you could always come for a drive up here and meet the guy. I heard there is another member near him as well, but that guy is chopped liver I guess

I have to get a vehicle that can make that distance first. The rigs I own can't make it around the block currently. lol
 




Dono

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Mine either, lol.
 




4pointslow

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Dono, I would like to see a screen shot of the torque table you are adjusting.
Could you send me a screenshot?
 




Dono

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More than happy to, except I left my dongle at work today.
I'll post what Don Lasota had set it at, What I tried lowering mine to, and what factory is.
I'll put it in the tuning thread I kinda forgot about. lol

I appreciate all the help I can get.
 


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Dono

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For anyone wanting to fallow the whole torque table thing, it's here: Tuning my 347 with rear mount turbo
I tried to keep things separated. but it was obviously an epic fail.

My water pump finally showed up. Nice piece, but made in China. On this one, the impeller does not rub and the quality appears to be there. Its a keeper.
upload_2018-7-26_9-35-51.png
 




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