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My Remote tuning Thread

First I want to say I too was one of the people who negelected to budget for tuning in my build. I was convinced I could take care of this myself.

All was going pretty well until I burned a piston.
My financial status also took a dive right as I finished with the original build, so this was a huge blow.
Here we are 3 years later and I finally have the issue resolved. This truck is running so good, and I know I can beat on it and it will take it.
Thanks James-you made this fun again!!

Now you all know me by now-I don't do anything very quickly. In fact, every one of you here can do anything better, and faster than I , if you stop to think about it.

On with the show-

I swapped out all of my original maf stuff for a Lightning Maf sensor, which required I make a new intake tube. Once I had this all figured out, James sent me a tune file and the truck fired right up!
If you aren't familiar with the combination, you can click the "my truck" link in my sig.

basically -the only thing stock under my hood is the timing cover, water pump, and oil pan.
The camshaft has a fairly aggressive grind profile. Not to mention This engine is 5.6 liters instead of 5.0. This alone will give a stock PCM fits-


James had to have pulled this original tune right from his head. We both expected the truck to run like crap but it actually ran very well.

After a few drive ability tunes-it was time for the WOT part to begin. I attempted to install my innovative wide band o2 sensor, but somehow it got messed up. While I waited for the replacement, James was more than happy to play around with the surging issue I was experiencing.

The wide band arrived, and while it was a hassle to install, the information it gives is more than worth it.

Now it gets fun (for the tuner--nerve racking for me)

You must have full , complete trust in the person you are working with for this step. There is no room for wimping out, as if you let up, or don't get a good pull, you need to do it all over again.


I was able to get a good "high load" pull by starting from a dead stop, in 2nd gear.
You must floor it, no easing in, --
Hold it mashed to the floor until it hits the rev limiter James has set in for you based on the information you have provided. In my case this was 6000 RPM's

So, 2nd gear, dead stop-
start the sct live link logging software.
Once the screen comes up-nail it and hang on. all the way up to 85 MPH.

Then stop the log, head home and send an email to James.
After he looks it over, and does a bit of his magic, he sends back another tune file.

The old tune files are deleted, the new one is flashed into the pcm, and another pull is run.
I started to send him logs of launches from 1st gear also. I noticed the transmission shifting way too early. I mentioned this and the next tune not only had the a/f corrections for the next wot pull, but the shift points were raised to 5500 RPM's ( as indicated by the factory tach)
I then mentioned the Truck not hooking well,
After only 8 successful pulls ( total), James handed me the keys to the final tune file today.









Yes it was windy-but I think you get the idea.

All in all I must say-I am very pleased with James' service. He truly knows his stuff.
This has been the most rewarding part of the whole modding experience -
I know my truck runs great-and, I know it is going to stay together.

This is meant to be a discussion thread. If you want to see screen shots, or , if you have the sct live link software and would like to see a few logs-let me know. I think James is going to poke his head in here to show what he did. I didn't ask much. I was too busy following instructions:D
 



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Couple of videos-
discussion?
seems my truck goes into wheelspin and shifts way too early-
First video is manually shifted-
second vid shortly-with manual shifting

 



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Its not necessarily bad but transfer cases are rated for only so much torque coming down from the transmission and we all know your engine is a little pushy. So you could be stretching the chain, or elongating the bearing lobe/seats ever so slightly (since the case halves are usually made of aluminum and/or magnesium) right at the instant of the launch when there is potential for the two axles to slip and not rotate at the same exact speed. This is just a theory and I"m not 100% sure but heck, 4406's are fairly common and somewhat inexpensive right?

EDIT: this site says its rated at ~300 ft/lbs: http://www.generation-edge.info/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6478&whichpage=3
 






That's a really nice torque converter Jon, it seems about right. I think I'll shoot for the 2500 range for room to grow. What do you think of the 3000 rpm you have now?

Where is the trans shifting by itself? I also don't know about the BW4406, I'm going to be testing the clutch in it on launches.

Do the manual BW4406 and the TOD version both have a mechanical lock of the front shaft when in 4HI? Does the TOD version have two ways to grab the front shaft, with the clutch and the 4HI shift motor setting?

Jon, I don't know what I would do with that, facing 2WD or 4HI. If possible it would be nice to try it gently, rolling into the gas from idle, then quicker each time. Is that what you were pondering?
 






Hey JT - I'm glad you got it tuned.

That thing spins like crazy off the line. Is there anyway you can "roll" into it without spinning like that? I can't tell where it's shifting at to well.

Have you tried playing with the adjustments? (Act like your going to install the tune and choose the user adjustments) You can increase the shift RPM a little. There's a few other things you can play with and James keeps things safe so I don't think you can adjust something that will get you in trouble.
 






About the shifting

If you look at the 2nd video-the clicking toward the beginning is me shifting it down to the "1" position.
If you watch you can see me move it to 2, then right before 6k rpm's I bump it to D and let it shift before getting out of it.
 






I noticed that, and I do a lot of shifting P/R/N/D etc. each day. That shifter is hard to do manually compared to floor shifter. Where does the PCM shift it at, and isn't it the same in each gear? I'm hoping for 5500 unless I can talk my cam guy down some.
 






I noticed that, and I do a lot of shifting P/R/N/D etc. each day. That shifter is hard to do manually compared to floor shifter. Where does the PCM shift it at, and isn't it the same in each gear? I'm hoping for 5500 unless I can talk my cam guy down some.

I think I will try bumping it up some-
I think ( but am not sure) the shift is now at around 5200,
 






I'd bet that your intake and heads are good for much more rpm, the cam is likely close to the 5500range for a best shift point. If you could bet the tire spin down you might be able to time runs with different shift points, to find the ideal rpm. I'll do that with mine and hope that it doesn't push me up higher than I'd like. I think my guy built the cam on the big side for later adding boost.
 












Isn't 5200 pretty low for a shift point when you have a 6k+ redline? Mine doesn't shift until 5400 by the tach.

yes-
the engine speed will go about 200-300 rpm's higher than the "shift point" while shifting-
so-
a 5200 shift point will " look " like it is shifting at 5400

Check a datalog and look at the RPM's when the shift is "commanded" if you could for me.
 






yes-
the engine speed will go about 200-300 rpm's higher than the "shift point" while shifting-
so-
a 5200 shift point will " look " like it is shifting at 5400

Check a datalog and look at the RPM's when the shift is "commanded" if you could for me.

It'll have to be tomorrow, my new laptop charger still hasn't show up, so I'll have to go borrow my brothers. Do you want to see it with the stock program or James' program? or nevermind I'll just do both.
 






Please remember that the shift points are where the computer is commanding the shift to start. The more power you make the better chance a commanded 5200 will actually execute around 5400-5500. After looking at the video, I agree Jons shift points need to be raised by aournd 300rpm. File sent now. -j
 
























I've got the stock info now. Command to shift at 4650rpm, actual shift at 5200rpm, oh and Jon my trans temp was around 120-130 in town and 140 on the highway cruising at ~80mph. And believe me I wish I couldn't show off with my awd, I'd much rather be spinning some tires in 2wd:D
 






Please remember that the shift points are where the computer is commanding the shift to start. The more power you make the better chance a commanded 5200 will actually execute around 5400-5500. After looking at the video, I agree Jons shift points need to be raised by aournd 300rpm. File sent now. -j




Zowie
James! Dooood!

wow-
that made more difference than anything IMO

Holy Bejeezus-
This thing just went from " hmm, will it make it to 100mph?"

to a steady pull to 110. It seems to shift right where it needs to now-without a single loss of pull all the way up-


Jeeemenie-I got scared and shut her down. I haven't been that fast in my truck for a looong time!!!

All I can say is wow-

I am now in the opinion the transmission controlling has way more to do with the whole scheme than engine tuning.

I'll try to get a video of how it behaves now. I'm certain it is dialed in well enough that the adjustable parameters will well be in range-

For now though-I'll say the wheel spin and vehicle speed seem to meet each other right before it hits 2nd gear-:thumbsup:

Big grin--:D:D
 



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