Need help finding the correct fuel pump 2002 Sport Trac

[429CJ-3X2]

I'm in the process of changing the fuel pump in my 2002 Sport Trac with a build date of Aug 1, 2002. Got the tank off and drained only to find the pump assembly I bought has 4 pins in the electrical plug, and my old (original) has 5. Of course, there's no way to know exactly what you have until you drop the tank and get the old pump out.
There was a change in March of '02, possibly when they went to the plastic tank. The only one the major parts stores list for after 03/04/02 with 5 pins is not available locally or for home delivery. And it says the original has 5 pins, but the replacement has 4. I found 1 listing elsewhere that says 5 pins, but the photo shows 7.

I need help ASAP! My truck is apart in my driveway, and I need to get it running!

 

[410Fortune]

Why not just change the pump and leave the old hanger assembly? It’s much cheaper and you can get a quality pump and strainer

If your fuel gauge works then there is no reason to change the hanger assembly imo

 

[410Fortune]

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps---tanks/fuel-pump/fuel-pump/83db8e3f0135/v/a/18629/automotive-suv-2002-ford-explorer-sport-trac

Oreilly has precision denso and Delphi pumps

Decent pumps

If you are stuck with the hanger assembly you have consider taking the pump and strainer off it and install into yours

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I was going to replace the whole assembly because I recently noticed my fuel gauge isn't reading like it always has. I can go 100 miles or more before the needle moves off full, and about 200 miles on the top half. When it gets to a certain point near empty, usually around 300-320 miles of local driving, it takes 19-20 gallons. I watch the odometer as much as the fuel gauge because it's been consistent since I bought it 12+ years ago. When it hit the same spot on the gauge last week, I put in almost 22 gallons. It seemed off the fill-up before that, too. (The gauge in my '04 ST, and the '01 before that are/were more accurate throughout the entire range.)

It looks like the Precision Fuel Pump Module Assembly A47157 from O'Reilly is what I need, but it's special order. I was probably looking at that and deciding it's what I need as you were posting.
The only one Advance/Carquest shows for after 03/04/02, besides the wrong one I bought, is the one that says the original had 5 pins, but the replacement has 4. How does that work? It's also not available locally.

I'm blessed to be living within 5 miles of multiple stores for all the major chains, and double or triple that # within 10 miles. NAPA, Advance/Carquest (2), and O'Reilly's all have distribution centers within 5 miles, too. It's discouraging that the part I need is special order, and there isn't one locally!

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I returned the pump I'd bought to Carquest, and went to O'Reilly's and ordered what appears to be the correct pump assembly. It might take a week to find out if they can even get it.

Why not just change the pump and leave the old hanger assembly? It’s much cheaper and you can get a quality pump and strainer

If your fuel gauge works then there is no reason to change the hanger assembly imo

I just realized I inadvertently addressed your suggestion in my last post. Because I've watched the odometer as much as the fuel gauge for 12 years, and I'm the only one who drives it, I could get by with a defective gauge in this truck.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

The only one the major parts stores list for after 03/04/02 with 5 pins says the original has 5 pins, but the replacement has 4.

I assumed the difference was in something in the assembly other than the pump, but when looking for the bare pump, the (few) listings I found said the same thing. So the difference is in how the pump itself is wired, which makes me feel better about it. The bare pump is as unavailable as the assembly. Even if the bare pump was available, the pump and strainer would have been $140+. I was considering ordering the assembly that says the original has 5 pins, but the replacement has 4 from Advance for $200, but checked Rock Auto for a bare pump (not even listed) and found the assembly they offer is exactly the same part #. Wholesaler closeout for $71 shipped. Should be here Thursday, which is the next day I'll have a chance to work on it anyway. That's assuming I snagged the 1 they had remaining.

* Just got confirmation that it has shipped, an hour after placing the order!
I didn't go with Rock Auto last week because I didn't want to wait, and I was leery about the 5 to 4 pin thing. Forgot I have a discount code for RA until after I placed the order.

Since my truck is likely one of the last '02s built, I searched for pumps for an '03, and got the same results.
I haven't heard from O'Reillys about the special order I placed Saturday. I might end up with 2 pumps, but I didn't pay for the special order yet, and 2 is better than no pump.

 

[Mr Mumbles]

I'm in the process of changing the fuel pump in my 2002 Sport Trac with a build date of Aug 1, 2002. Got the tank off and drained only to find the pump assembly I bought has 4 pins in the electrical plug, and my old (original) has 5. Of course, there's no way to know exactly what you have until you drop the tank and get the old pump out.
There was a change in March of '02, possibly when they went to the plastic tank. The only one the major parts stores list for after 03/04/02 with 5 pins is not available locally or for home delivery. And it says the original has 5 pins, but the replacement has 4. I found 1 listing elsewhere that says 5 pins, but the photo shows 7.

I need help ASAP! My truck is apart in my driveway, and I need to get it running!

My '02 1/2 Explorer had a new fuel pump installed in it just before I bought it and I have the receipt for it in my hand. It's a Spectra brand and the P/N is SP2334M. Hope this helps.

Spectra Premium SP2334M Fuel Pump Module for Ford, Electric Fuel Pumps - Amazon Canada

Spectra Premium SP2334M Fuel Pump Module for Ford in Electric Fuel Pumps.

www.amazon.ca

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Thank you.
That one doesn't fit a Sport Trac. It's also "Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if it will be back in stock."

 

[410Fortune]

Here are all the bare fuel pumps available at rock auto

2002 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L V6 Fuel Pump | Shop Now at RockAuto

Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 2002 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

I have changed about 50 fuel pumps
They are all held in with a clamp and receive a + and - wire. The only reason to change the entire assembly is if you have issues with fuel gauge or pressure regulator

If you want to change the entire hanger cool, but it is not necessary. Confused on why you said rockauto does not list just th pump… you just gotta click on “fuel pump”
Instead of “fuel pump and housing assembly”

When replacing just the pump you will also need a strainer

Glad you got that tank dropped!

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Only 1 of those pumps is for trucks built after 03/04/02, (like mine) and the description contains no details.
Every description I found, from the parts chains, eBay, Amazon, etc, that does show details, lists the # of pins in the connector where the pump assembly plugs into the truck's wiring harness - 4 pins, 5 pins, or a few 7 pins. You're correct that the pump itself has just 2 wires to it. I don't know what difference it makes that the assembly has X# of wires when all the pumps have 2 wires that run directly to the pump, but the manufacturers list different part #s based on the # of wires going to the assembly, even for bare pumps.

My fuel gauge has never been truly accurate, but it read differently on the last 2 tanks than it has for the 12 years I've owned it. It had less gas, about 2 gallons, at the spot on the gauge where I usually fill up.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

The new pump came today. I'll post pics tomorrow and show the differences.

I have the pump in the tank, and I'm in the process of putting the tank back in. Getting it out, even with 15 gallons of gas in it, was a piece of cake compared to putting the empty tank back in the truck! It's pretty straightforward, except for the end of the rear strap that doesn't fit between the driveshaft and the tank. I fought that for far too long before giving up for the night. Ford obviously installed the tank before the driveshaft. With the end of the strap laying on the top of the driveshaft, I needed another 1/4" to get the other end hooked in the frame. There's a plastic cover that seems to protect the inner side of the tank. Not sure why it's there. I'm thinking of taking that off. It won't help the way I first thought, but it might free up some room between the tank and driveshaft.

FINALLY got the filter off. I tried 3 different tools multiple times with no success. I tried the Sharpie cap idea, and it seemed like it would have worked, but the walls of the cap were too thin. The outer diameter was less than the diameter of the ridge on the filter. Finally got it off with the aluminum set from Harbor Freight (4th different tool). Like others have said, it took several attempts, and I didn't do anything differently when it finally came off. I spent hours trying to get that off!

 

[410Fortune]

I hate those clips
I have destroyed a few fuel lines over the years because of those things and then you remaking a patch in a 70 psi fuel line… not fun

The old plastic clip fuel lines worked just fine and were way easier

After 99 the fuel systems are all returnless and run at 68 psi
I Am not sure why they list different pumps for early 02 and late 02…it is silly. When you can just install a walbro or Bosch high pressure pump in any of the hangers… which I have done at least 50 times I never paid any attention to those dates I simply have a pump I use for 96-98 returns style and then a different one for 98-04 trucks with returnless … I know ford changed a few things like the size and shape of the hanger assembly and the switch from a 2 line to 3 line filter sometime in 2002… sillyas
Far as the pump knows it is either on or off and making pressure or not…

 

[429CJ-3X2]

This was wrapped in tape along the wiring sheath for the old pump. Notice the red wire goes into the black rubber thing - it feels like a chunk of semi-soft rubber - but doesn't come back out. The other 2 wires come out, are spliced, but are the same colors after the splice. The factory wiring manual shows some things related to flex fuel in the fuel pump unit after 2/18/02. Accommodations for flex fuel, as well as switching to plastic fuel tanks, might be why they make different pumps. Maybe the rubber thingy is just a way to get the wiring for flex fuel that close to the pump assembly, and doesn't exist on flex fuel trucks because the red wire goes to the flex fuel components?

 

[429CJ-3X2]

IT RUNS!!
Finished putting it back together this morning, which is great, not just because it's taken so long and I want my truck, but it's still cool. Dangerous heat and humidity are expected by this afternoon and will stick around to the middle of next week.

The key to getting the rear tank strap in place is to put the outer end in the frame and turn it 90 degrees so the other end is toward the axle. Jack the tank up, and rotate the strap into place. There's just enough room to get the end of the strap between the tank and the driveshaft if you do that. Reverse of that is how it had to come off.

After buttoning everything up, I put about 8 gallons of gas in it, turned the key on and off 2 or 3 times, and started it. Runs strong!

The transmission has been shifting weird for several months - shifts were sometimes late and hard, and it didn't want to downshift. On our last 2 trips to Ohio, rpms were sometimes higher than they should have been for the speed we were traveling, and mileage was terrible, even allowing for the wind. When I realized the fuel pump was bad, I wondered if the transmission issues were related since the truck was down on power. Don't know yet if the last part has cleared up, but on my test drive the shifts, both up and down, were perfect - smooth and on time.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Old vs new. Things are oriented and mounted a little bit different, but the important parts seem to be in the right place. And it works. New pump is part# M2496130 from Advance/Carquest, made by Carter. I bought this one from Rock Auto, but it came in a Carquest box.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Truck is running smooth and strong. Driving across town yesterday, mostly 35 mph speed limit, with my brain on autopilot, I repeatedly found myself driving 40-45. Muscle memory had me depressing the gas pedal like I have been, and that's too far now with the new pump and filter.

I checked on pump assemblies for the 2004 ST, and the replacement assembly appears to have that rubber thing with 3 wires going in and 2 coming out taped to the sheath just like the original assembly for my '02. Also has 5 pins in the connector. Since my '04 is apparently flex fuel, although the only designation is the K engine code, that backs my thinking that the rubber piece is flex fuel related. I didn't realize flex fuel was a thing on the STs in '02.

Tip - there's a special tool for removing the lock ring holding the pump to the tank. It runs $39 and up. I took mine off with the careful use of a hammer and punch, and might have tightened it that way, but remembered I have a rubber strap wrench. It was just big enough, and worked perfectly. The lock ring takes patience to get started. The threads are so coarse that it looks and feels like it's going on crooked, but it eventually evens out.