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New 289 Motor Build

JDraper

Somewhat Functional
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
January 11, 2001
Messages
15,189
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City, State
McVeytown, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'18 XLT
Got a new project to start :D
 

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You're gonna put that engine in a bicycle? cool!!
 






Nah, just gonna mount the bike seat on it and call it good :)
 






So what's the scoop?? More performance for the old 'stang, or something completely different??
 






New motor for the '66. Existing one has a rattle associated with the camshaft that I (and several mechanics) can't track down as to what is causing the problem. The cam keeps walking backwards in the block, which is odd for Fords, they usually walk forwards if not constrained. Serves me right for not building the short block myself the first time.

This will be a hotter version of the existing motor. More agressive cam, stronger bottom end, etc.

The motor is an original early '66 289 that looks like it's never been cracked open. Still has the original tags on it and the bolts and gaskets appear to be undisturbed. Turns over smooth and the oil in it looks good. Teardown will commence soon :)
 












I've already had Jon powdercoat a bunch of the parts I'm using. I'm re-using most of the motor accessories I already have.

Motor will be black and silver...no technicolor motor here..
 






Are you sure its not Sue's knee your hearing rattle or the little peanut in her head?
 






Are you sure its not Sue's knee your hearing rattle or the little peanut in her head?

Sue is now mumbling threats under her breath about Ben and great bodily harm....:p:
 






Cracked the motor open today. Someone obviously wasn't into car maintenance....:eek::eek::wtf:

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Thankfully the cylinder bores look pretty good.
 






Sue is now mumbling threats under her breath about Ben and great bodily harm....:p:

:thumbsup:

and um.....yea, them's original miles. prob with the original oil i bet to.
 






Fortunately, the bottom end is in a lot better shape than the top end. No scoring on the cylinder walls and no damage on the pistons. Crank *might* need an 0.010" turn. Definitely needs new wristpins. I'm hoping that I can get away with a hone on the cylinders and re-use the existing pistons. Guess we'll find out when it goes to the shop.

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Took the block, crank, pistons and connecting rods down to HP Engines in Thompsontown, PA today. Did a quick measurement on the cylinder bores and we're going to have to do an 0.030" bore on them. Cylinders were worn from .018" to 0.021". That means we'll be putting in new forged pistons now :).
 






Bummer that it needs a bore job, but at least you'll have piece of mind running forged pistons. A stroker kit sure would be fun:D
 






I think a supercharger is needed.. You don't need Sue's permission.. Well you can just buy it and install it and say yea I changed the plan on the 66's motor :D
 












Assembly started.

Crank installed:

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Piston assemblies and rings laid out in the proper order so I don't goof :)

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Rings assembled onto pistons:

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Installing pistons with covers on the studs to protect the crank:

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Plastigaging everything just to be sure:

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Got to the # 8 piston and broke a ring in my ring compressor...:fire::fire::fire:. The compressor had fought me all day, and since I broke 1 ring, I was concerned about the condition of all the other rings, so I yanked all the pistons back out..:rolleyes: Thankfully, all the other rings were fine and now I've got a better ring compressor and new rings for the #8 piston on order.

Stay tuned...:p:
 






Well, a good quality tool really helps. I went out and bought one of these compressors:

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What a difference!! Took me only 35 minutes to install all 8 pistons. On Sunday it took me 4 hours to do 7 with the old band style compressor:

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The old one went in the trash...
 






How exactly does that Summit one work?

Also that one you put in the trash is exactly what I have. Some of my tools need to be updated, I think I bought that while in High School.
 



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The Summit one is a tapered sleeve. You slide it through from the wide side and put the narrower side against the block. They are not universal, but made for a specific bore. It works EXTREMELY well.
 






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