New to me & Need a tone of Help 97 Ford Explorer

[donalds]

My wife's truck she loves it
Its fast at 9.5 boost and methanol injection
Even at 3.5 psi it is like a whole different truck
You will need to move extend some wires under the intake for your model year
We put about 60 k on it so far I think maybe more
The better job you do installing everything the better it will hold up

 

[HOBO]

My wife's truck she loves it
Its fast at 9.5 boost and methanol injection
Even at 3.5 psi it is like a whole different truck
You will need to move extend some wires under the intake for your model year
We put about 60 k on it so far I think maybe more
The better job you do installing everything the better it will hold up

Nice to know! I saw your wire part of your post. how much was that a pain in the ass? Do you remember which exact wires you needed to extended?

and yes I aggree quality is so important! Also what was MPG like at 3.5 PSI of boost?

 

[donalds]

It wasn't that bad just one wire at a time and you're good
It was like half the wires under there it really wasn't that bad took all day

Took one weekend to install the whole kit
The iac must be mounted backwards or buy one for a 2005 ranger

Buy the proper rubber hoses for the vac lines and protect them so they don't rub together

 

[HOBO]

It wasn't that bad just one wire at a time and you're good
It was like half the wires under there it really wasn't that bad took all day

Took one weekend to install the whole kit
The iac must be mounted backwards or buy one for a 2005 ranger

Thanks for the learning curb notes!!! Greatly appreciated that! I just learned you need to run 91 octane is that true at stock with 3.5 PSI of boost? plus what was gas mileage like?

 

[donalds]

Yes must run 91 I run 93
Normal driving my gas mileage stays the same 18-20 mpg but when you dig into the gas mileage sufficiently drops lol
But you won't care about that because of how easy it is to break the tires loose

 

[HOBO]

Yes must run 91 I run 93
Normal driving my gas mileage stays the same 18-20 mpg but when you dig into the gas mileage sufficiently drops lol
But you won't care about that because of how easy it is to break the tires loose

Thank you! Thats what I was needing to hear! Yes dollars per smile!!!! lol & **** wow! 18-20mpg that's better than my 1st fill up at 14.50 ish MPG yesterday. But of course I drove in a bunch of ****ty traffic yesterday. What size tires you running?

 

[donalds]

What size tires you running

Stock 235 75 r15
They should last 50k I get 20 bc of chirping the tires at red lights

I did upgrade the shocks and ALL the suspension bushings to poly bushings handles better this way

 

[HOBO]

Stock 235 75 r15
They should last 50k I get 20 bc of chirping the tires at red lights

I did upgrade the shocks and ALL the suspension bushings to poly bushings handles better this way

Noted, Yeah I do plan to do that & I was wanting to go to 33X12.50X15s if possible. But I doubt that. I think more like 31X10.50X15s are more realistic. I figured if I use the supper charger. I can push those larger tires with out much issues. Especially with the 4.10 gears.

 

[HOBO]

For parking brake scissors, I was able to use f150 style, however they are not side to side labeled correctly. Kit should be available at oriellys, and returnable. Pretty sure that's what I used.

924741. Dorman

Sk924741 skp

Same number you got.

Yeah, it's a good idea to service the diff at this time, get your backers assembled then slide axles back in
Bearings and seals too. It's a list of stuff, you'll find the end of it.

I just wanted to follow up. I got the parts locally thank you!!!!

The rear e brake is a small drum inside your disc brake rotor. The e brake drum can be a pita to repair, many people get frustrated and just gut it. I mean it’s an automatic so how often do people push down the parking brake? Not often. It is a good idea to get it working… just so you have an emergency brake. No the axlehsafts do not have to come out, but it can make the repair easier

I wanted to follow up on this. Is there a trick or best way to finagle the new scissors in there. Do I go from the front at an odd angle or can i come in from the back? Do, I need to grind anything more open?

 

[410Fortune]

You will want to cool your transmission if you are going supercharged

I would first make sure your 97 has a dual core radiator
Then make sure it has the aux trans cooler
Then I would add a second aux trans cooler and an in line magnetic filter

You are going to be putting a lot of stress on that ol 97 5r55e, heat kills transmissions, so you need to keep it cool

 

[HOBO]

You will want to cool your transmission if you are going supercharged

I would first make sure your 97 has a dual core radiator
Then make sure it has the aux trans cooler
Then I would add a second aux trans cooler and an in line magnetic filter

You are going to be putting a lot of stress on that ol 97 5r55e, heat kills transmissions, so you need to keep it cool

Yes I'm aware of heat killing transmission, Was in a trans shop for a bit in-between jobs. I have noticed a 2nd cooler attached to the radiator. I have yet to trace the lines to see what they go to. But I did check the fluid. Its dark in color & doesn't smell burnt "Does smell odd, different than what I have come to know" (IDK if thats normal for these). I know its over due for a service, flush, filter, & new fluid. So, Plan on doing that after the holidays.

But yet I not know if you have seen my follow up question the the Parking Break "Scissor" Install or not.

 

[Turdle]

Seems like there is a rubber liner in the backer, scissors push thru backer from outside. Hook facing rearward

 

[410Fortune]

Assembling the rear brakes and e brake is pretty straight forward
A pita, but do able
I would take the entire assembly apart and service it from the front, yes even the scissors and their protective boots which enter the e brake through the backing plate from the back. Chances are good you will need new e brake cables, they like to seize and rust and crack and break over the years

The rear e brake setup is basically the same from 95-01 on explorers and mountaineers, 02-04 sports and sport tracs as well as 06-11 4.0 rangers if you need parts

Dark fluid yuck
Is your radiator dual core?
Many of us bypass the “cooler” in the radiator because it is soo small it actually acts as a pre heater and not much of a cooler. Then we will add a second factory aux cooler

Dorman trans pans are cheap and include a nice drain plug so fluid changes are that much easier.

 

[HOBO]

Seems like there is a rubber liner in the backer, scissors push thru backer from outside. Hook facing rearward

Yes, there is a rubber boot. Okay, So it is possible to get the assembly thought the back of the plate.

Assembling the rear brakes and e brake is pretty straight forward
A pita, but do able
I would take the entire assembly apart and service it from the front, yes even the scissors and their protective boots

Dark fluid yuck
Is your radiator dual core?
Many of us bypass the “cooler” in the radiator because it is soo small it actually acts as a pre heater and not much of a cooler. Then we will add a second factory aux cooler

Oh I know its straight forward, done drums before. My issue is looking at it seems to be a tight fit & a lot of finagling from the front. I also don't want to be fighting it for 2 or more hours to install that one small assembly. Trying to speed the job up by cutting down on the learning curb. While obtaining a few tips & tricks for that.

I haven't got that far on the radiator yet. I just know its a new one from O'reilles. And nice to know on the Bypass & cooling issue that cause.

 

[410Fortune]

Well….. if you want to save time then you may consider opening the diff and pulling the c clips extend out the axleshafts.. for your first time it would actually save time and gives you a chance to change the fluid in the rear diff… 75-140 full synth
With the axle shafts in place you can plan to fight those little springs and shoes for at least a couple of hours lol
I can do them in I dunno 20-40 minutes per side, I have drum brake spring tools and brake drum shoe, etc that can really help with the setup and I have done these for the last 25 years so I’m used to them. The first few times there was lots of cussing and holding of flashlights as it got dark and we still outside fighting those little drum brakes lol

The toughest part is stretching the bottom spring across from shoe to shoe and getting g them to seat in their perspective holes. Having the right tools and good pliers is key. I use a handled tee tool with a hooked end and also the drum brake spring tool as well as a good set of pliers with good grip and teeth

 

[donalds]

I put 180 ° thermostat in my unit because of detonation risk this also lowered my transmission temperature to 170 all the time baby
I do run a factory transmission cooler with a filter and a dual core radiator with electric fan

 

[HOBO]

well tore the whole axle apart & installed the stupid thing yesterday. what a nightmare. Never the hell again. but its done. When a get more free time this weekend. I'll have to take a look at the radiator to see what's going on with it.

 

[EB4X]

That's like the only job I paid a mechanic to do in the last few years on my vehicles, hearing what a headache it is.... he only quoted $40 (not knowing it would be a headache) and I supplied pads....needless to say after that his facial expressions and quote for a potential job afterwards were quite different.

 

[410Fortune]

More Like $140
Lol
Battle on!!

 

[HOBO]

Okay, I got some more answers now. I just have a single core radiator, & the transmission is hooked up to this newly installed separate cooler. I also got a 1997 sales pamphlet in. So, know I know how it was option way better. I got the 2 Door Sport PEP 934A package, now thats just the base part of the package. Looks like I got a higher option trim such as the XLT941A or XLT 945A* I still need to decode the door tag with this new information. But I do find this way more helpful now. Vs my guessing.

Also, I made progress on the radio. I got it pulled & check the connections, Found a ground that looks to tie the radio from an old post on the site having similar issues. It was not the ground. It was solid & not loose. I check the fuses. which are not the case either. They are not blow. I'm tempted to just switch them all out to new ones with the LEDs for easy IDs. since they are all supper old. While The radio was out. I did check the blending switch connection. it was solid. so that's not it for the A/c issue.

Thats the current update.