Newbie with problems (of course)

[Nataliator]

Hi All,
New member to the forums but have been lurking for some time. I joined to search, and unfortunately came up empty.

I have a 97 Explorer Sport, v6 SOHC 4.0 - and am currently experiencing a problem with the drive-line.

I guess first of all, I have seen so many threads outlining the transfer case #s and trans #s to each model, but I am confused on what I have. I am pretty sure I have a 5 sp auto in it, if that helps? The VIN is 1FMDU24E4VUB52446 if anyone could help me decode.

So onto the problem - I purchased the truck for next to nothing recently at an "as-is" auction, knowing full well I would have to drop some coin to get it to tip-top shape. Well after purchase, I took it to my trusted mechanic for a PPI, and he said all it needed was a ball joint, no big deal i had him do this work for me. He also mentioned that this truck was missing the front drive shaft but it drove fine, so I ought to buy one if I wanted to take advantage of the 4wd.

Of course it wasn't that simple. I purchased a drive shaft and hardware and installed it, only to find that my truck seemed to "jump" every revolution.

I have read alot from other posts here and i am not sure if the truck is stuck in 4wd hi or there is a problem with the t-case, or maybe in the front diff. It almost feels/sounds like the gears in the front diff aren't lining up tooth to gap once per revolution, but tooth to tooth causing the "jump" and loud "pop" sound. This occurs in a straight section and seems to magnify when turning, either direction.

So I have since removed the front drive shaft and driven it as a 2wd in the meantime. It hasn't given me any strange sounds or motions since, unless I cut the wheel all the way to one side or the other, then i get the same popping, jumping action, but its VERY VERY faint, whereas with the drive shaft on its loud and noticeable. I have driven alot since my experiments, and its been dead reliable, just no 4wd.

Does this sound like a t-case issue, or an issue in the guts of the diff?worse? both? Sorry for the long-windedness. I am prepared to have my tech look at it and hopefully fix it again, but I am hoping I can narrow down what my problem is so i don't have a nightmare story like some member's i have read where they take their truck in for repairs and after the repairs the problem still exists.

IF anyone can offer any insight or needs anymore information let me know!

TIA,

Steve

 

[ahodges]

Sounds to me like its in the front axel. I don't think its the differential itself but they have this automatic locking deal in the front axel towards the passengerside that sometimes fails or malfunctions which could cause the "binding" of the frontend.

Try engaging the 4 wheel drive with the front shaft out and see what happens..

 

[Nataliator]

Sounds to me like its in the front axel. I don't think its the differential itself but they have this automatic locking deal in the front axel towards the passengerside that sometimes fails or malfunctions which could cause the "binding" of the frontend.

Try engaging the 4 wheel drive with the front shaft out and see what happens..

I have switched the knob on the dash from 4wd auto to 4wd high both while parked and while moving and in every occasion the light comes on in the cluster "4wd" Even with the front drive shaft removed from the truck.

 

[ahodges]

Well if everything seems ok with the drive shaft out.. the problem lies either in the front axel with the auto hub lock or the T-case is indeed stuck in 4WD even though it says its in 2WD. Since during normal driving with it out there are no problems I would have to say that the differential itself is ok, but I am no expert..

Check the oil level in the T-case for starters if you haven't already..

I have had this same problem with mine but even with the front drive shaft in, when the truck is in 2WD the noise would go away. I was told that my problem could be a malfunctioning T-case but I checked the oil level added maybe 1/4 quart and I haven't had any more problems..

 

[Nataliator]

so is it unusual for the dash light to toggle on or off from 4x4 when the knob is turned to 4x4 high even with the front drive shaft out?

My fluid levels are OK.

 

[Glen4X4]

Ok, first off the 97 explorers have a "live" axle there is no axle disconnect that only pertains to 95 and 95 4.0 explorers 97 and up have the live axle where the wheels are locked to the differential at all times. And if you can do simple mechanics you should trouble shoot to see if the transfer case or an axle issue is a how-to http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203441

 

[Nataliator]

Ok, first off the 97 explorers have a "live" axle there is no axle disconnect that only pertains to 95 and 95 4.0 explorers 97 and up have the live axle where the wheels are locked to the differential at all times. And if you can do simple mechanics you should trouble shoot to see if the transfer case or an axle issue is a how-to http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203441

Thanks for the link. I went through and did this procedure and found that when I tried to install my driveshaft, it would not spin by hand for me while the truck was off and the front wheels in the air. (step 1) Does this mean my t-case is stuck in the 4wd position even though the dash light is never on?

I was able to roll each wheel in front without problem when the driveshaft is out of the truck, and i can see the front diff. input flange spinning with the wheel.

If it is a case of the transfer case being stuck - is there a fix, or is to likely that the unit is toast?

My truck has 140k miles.

 

[Glen4X4]

It sounds like its stuck, sometimes this works I've heard try taking your negative battery terminal off the battery for 10 minutes so the computer resets and see if the transfer case then allows you to spin it. If not then you need to either rebuild it or buy a new or used one from a junkyard just make sure you get one from a 97 only.

 

[Nataliator]

It sounds like its stuck, sometimes this works I've heard try taking your negative battery terminal off the battery for 10 minutes so the computer resets and see if the transfer case then allows you to spin it. If not then you need to either rebuild it or buy a new or used one from a junkyard just make sure you get one from a 97 only.

thank you for the response. 97 is the only t-case that will work for my Ex? In another thread while I was lurking, I thought i saw that all sports from 95 to 00 have the same t-case. If I am showing my noobness I apologize I am just trying to suck in as much info as possible at this time! Thanks again!

 

[Glen4X4]

They have the same model but there were changes made in 97 the output was changed to I believe a CV or double cardon versus 95 and 96 didn't and 98 they changed the speed sensor to the rear axle so that is why you must get from a 97 truck. And no need to apologize a couple years ago I was in the same position as you and I am still learning many things.

 

[Nataliator]

I am also curious for people's consensus on whether to have the t-case rebuilt or to swap in a unit from somewhere like this:
http://www.transfercases.com/order.htm


Will the costbe similar? Is there a benefit to having one sent to me from the above place vs. having a transmission shop rebuild my existing (fubared) unit? Thanks again!