gsbarry
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 6, 2008
- Messages
- 157
- Reaction score
- 12
- City, State
- Houston, TX
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- Stock 97 4.0 EB SOHC
Stock 97, 4.0 SOHC EB
I'm having trouble diagnosing the cause of an occasional no start condition (roughly 1 in 20 starts).
It's definitely electrical, when a no start condition occurs I can always jump the solenoid from the battery and start that way.
I have a good battery, starter motor, and starter solenoid fender relay (replaced twice to be sure).
My original thoughts were that it was a battery cable going bad, but I am getting correct voltage readings on the roughly 8" ground wire from battery to frame, as well as the cable going from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid relay (both showing 12.6 volts during the no start condition).
The red ignition wire is always showing 4 volts whether or not the ignition switch is in the 'on' position (I thought this was odd - i assumed there would be not voltage to that wire when in 'off'. Maybe it spikes to 12 volts when starting in order to activate the solenoid relay...).
I have noticed two different effects from the no start condition.
In one case, there is no sound (no starter motor turn, and hence no engine turn) but power remains to the rest of the vehicle after key is released from 'start' position (and in either 'on' or 'off').
In the other case, when attempting to start I hear a single click (sounds like a fuse popping - but all the fuses are good) (again no starter motor turn, and hence no engine turn) and then the vehicle loses all power in any key position. I can only resolve this case by disconnecting the negative battery cable (it must reset something though I'm not sure what), then jumping the starter solenoid relay. There is no blinking of the anti-theft light.
I should also point out there is no CEL (no codes), and no other issues.
I am not sure about where the other negative battery post wire goes, or the other two wires connecting to the 'always hot' post on the solenoid relay. What I mean is I'm not sure where they go or come from, so haven't been able to test those. That being said, it is a southern vehicle and all the wires look decent, but you can never be sure I suppose.
Sorry for the long post, but I thought it was all relevant.
I am out of ideas for now, help would really be appreciated. Thx.
I'm having trouble diagnosing the cause of an occasional no start condition (roughly 1 in 20 starts).
It's definitely electrical, when a no start condition occurs I can always jump the solenoid from the battery and start that way.
I have a good battery, starter motor, and starter solenoid fender relay (replaced twice to be sure).
My original thoughts were that it was a battery cable going bad, but I am getting correct voltage readings on the roughly 8" ground wire from battery to frame, as well as the cable going from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid relay (both showing 12.6 volts during the no start condition).
The red ignition wire is always showing 4 volts whether or not the ignition switch is in the 'on' position (I thought this was odd - i assumed there would be not voltage to that wire when in 'off'. Maybe it spikes to 12 volts when starting in order to activate the solenoid relay...).
I have noticed two different effects from the no start condition.
In one case, there is no sound (no starter motor turn, and hence no engine turn) but power remains to the rest of the vehicle after key is released from 'start' position (and in either 'on' or 'off').
In the other case, when attempting to start I hear a single click (sounds like a fuse popping - but all the fuses are good) (again no starter motor turn, and hence no engine turn) and then the vehicle loses all power in any key position. I can only resolve this case by disconnecting the negative battery cable (it must reset something though I'm not sure what), then jumping the starter solenoid relay. There is no blinking of the anti-theft light.
I should also point out there is no CEL (no codes), and no other issues.
I am not sure about where the other negative battery post wire goes, or the other two wires connecting to the 'always hot' post on the solenoid relay. What I mean is I'm not sure where they go or come from, so haven't been able to test those. That being said, it is a southern vehicle and all the wires look decent, but you can never be sure I suppose.
Sorry for the long post, but I thought it was all relevant.
I am out of ideas for now, help would really be appreciated. Thx.