NOOB AWD 5.0 questions

[stangman701]

Hey guys, I've read this site quite a few times over the last year or so, but I'm starting to get more serious about getting an explorer now so I thought I'd ask a few questions. I'm looking at 5.0 AWD explorers and mountaineers and I was just wondering what kind of power the stock drivetrain can withstand. Mostly things like the tranny, transfer case, and the front diff and axles. I'll eventually build an N/A power plant with around 400 fwhp and wanted to see what all might need to be upgraded. Also I see a lot of people saying the rpms are limited to around 5000, is this a transmission issue that's keeping the rev's down? It's not going to be an off road truck at all, more of an all weather hot rod I guess. I would like to see 13's in the 1/4 N/A and maybe 11's or 12's down the road with a turbo or two. Are there any upgrades that can be done to the tranny to make it capable of handling the kind of power needed to get the truck into the 11's? Thanks for any input.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The transmission is the 4R70W so it will hod up.

You will need to build a 347 stroker with all forged internals. Don't expect 13 sec 1/4 mile times running the awd. It takes alot of power running two axles.

Also you need gobs of torque to move one of these beast.

You would be better off finding a 2wd with the 5.0 to build up.

 

[stangman701]

The transmission is the 4R70W so it will hod up.

You will need to build a 347 stroker with all forged internals. Don't expect 13 sec 1/4 mile times running the awd. It takes alot of power running two axles.

Also you need gobs of torque to move one of these beast.

You would be better off finding a 2wd with the 5.0 to build up.

Well I'm not super concerned about the final #'s, just something that moves a little better than my current 97 ranger. I hate how slow that thing is. I've got a couple mustangs to run when I really want to go fast. Good to hear the tranny is up to the task though, I assume the rest of the running gear will be fine as well? Is a 351W based combo out of the question?

 

[X6StringerX]

Im thinking there are issues with the 351 oil pump clearance. I recall someone worked it out though, so it is possible.

 

[Turdle]

Dead Link Removed

Transmission and torque converter stuff--

Stay with the 5.0 block--

 

[410Fortune]

351 is tough to stuff in your truck
the AWD has a front diff which makes it even tougher (is that a word? how about more tough)

The trans can take 500 hp with some simple valve body mods
the 8.8 31 spline rear end is stout enough for most conditions

there are members here with high HP 5.0L based trucks, both 2wd and AWD, heck even some of us are now true 4x4

try looking around.
I can tell you 13 seconds is likely do able without robbing a bank
11 seconds, as with any SUV you will need to sell a kidney and a child

Check out Trolls truck on this forum

I vote keep it simple and focus on taking the Mustangs to the track.

I am looking into a simple-ish remote mount turbo setup for my 96 5.0L truck, basically just for the coolness factor (mile high = mountain driving and towing = power sucks) and because of the simplicity and cost of the setup...also if I fry my engine, I can drop another one in over a weekend

 

[stangman701]

351 is tough to stuff in your truck
the AWD has a front diff which makes it even tougher (is that a word? how about more tough)

The trans can take 500 hp with some simple valve body mods
the 8.8 31 spline rear end is stout enough for most conditions

there are members here with high HP 5.0L based trucks, both 2wd and AWD, heck even some of us are now true 4x4

try looking around.
I can tell you 13 seconds is likely do able without robbing a bank
11 seconds, as with any SUV you will need to sell a kidney and a child

Check out Trolls truck on this forum

I vote keep it simple and focus on taking the Mustangs to the track.

I am looking into a simple-ish remote mount turbo setup for my 96 5.0L truck, basically just for the coolness factor (mile high = mountain driving and towing = power sucks) and because of the simplicity and cost of the setup...also if I fry my engine, I can drop another one in over a weekend

500 hp... that's really good to hear. I thought I was looking forward to major tranny mods, and a stock 31 spline... cool.

I was also thinking about a possible remote mount turbo down the road. I've seen some really good results with the STS kits on GM cars with a lot less turbo lag than I would have thought. Have to brush up on my welding skills first, but maybe 2 or 3 years down the road. This will by no means be a track vehicle, probably just once or twice to see what it will do, same with my mustangs really. I'm just looking to maybe keep up with the SRT8 Grand Cherokee and the Trailblazer SS.

Does anyone know approximately what an AWD 5.0 explorer/mountaineer would weigh? Thanks for all the great replies

 

[CDW6212R]

Most from 1991 to present are well over 4000lbs. I'd guess mine at 4400. Buy a 98-01 model, they are virtually identical, other that the 99+ being returnless fuel systems. Buy a 98 if you plan to get serious with the engine mods.

With this much weight a 7500rpm 302 would be a dog before 30mph. Keep the rpm stock, and bump the compression, boost, and displacement. Good luck,

 

[stangman701]

Most from 1991 to present are well over 4000lbs. I'd guess mine at 4400. Buy a 98-01 model, they are virtually identical, other that the 99+ being returnless fuel systems. Buy a 98 if you plan to get serious with the engine mods.

With this much weight a 7500rpm 302 would be a dog before 30mph. Keep the rpm stock, and bump the compression, boost, and displacement. Good luck,

Any particular reason to stay away from the 96-97 trucks? I just found a really nice 97 mountaineer on autotrader.

 

[X6StringerX]

I've got a '98 for sale at the moment. PM me or check out the for sale thread if you're interested.

 

[410Fortune]

96-97 are good trucks but in 97.5 the 5.0L got the better flowing P heads

 

[stangman701]

96-97 are good trucks but in 97.5 the 5.0L got the better flowing P heads

Ahh, I see. That's good to know. I assumed they all had the P heads. Shouldn't effect me too much because I plan on getting different heads soon after I get the truck, but it would be nice to be able to sell the stockers to recoupe some of the cost and the P's will bring a good bit more money. If I'm looking at a 97 I should be able to tell fairly quickly by the angle of the plugs correct?

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The easiest way to tell is the non P had enternal EGR valves while P heads have external EGR valves.

A P motor will have tube to from the right exhaust manifold the EGR.

 

[410Fortune]

ported and polished /re worked GT-40 p heads should be considered against eh cost of new aftermarket performance heads with similar results

 

[CDW6212R]

Lots of improvements were made for 98-01 models. The torsion bar mounting pads were redesigned, the 95-97's are very prone to wearing out the torsion bar keys, and clunking. Almost all of the electronics are not interchangeable with 98-01's, from the GEM, the message center, the air bags, instrument cluster, etc, etc.

The cost of the 98-01 is not much more than the older 95-97, and parts are newer/better to be hunting later from the 98-01's.

The GT40 heads should sell as easily as the GT40P's, the GT40 will bolt into any older 302 headers with no issues. The GT40P heads need planning to get them into some older manifolds. Good luck,

 

[stangman701]

Lots of improvements were made for 98-01 models. The torsion bar mounting pads were redesigned, the 95-97's are very prone to wearing out the torsion bar keys, and clunking. Almost all of the electronics are not interchangeable with 98-01's, from the GEM, the message center, the air bags, instrument cluster, etc, etc.

The cost of the 98-01 is not much more than the older 95-97, and parts are newer/better to be hunting later from the 98-01's.

The GT40 heads should sell as easily as the GT40P's, the GT40 will bolt into any older 302 headers with no issues. The GT40P heads need planning to get them into some older manifolds. Good luck,

The fact that the electronics are different is a big plus. I don't want the same crap that's in my 97 ranger, it's got all kinds of problems. Blend door issues, wipers only work on high, dome lights staying on, and probably more than I'm forgetting.

 

[CDW6212R]

I even forgot the blend door issue, my 98 model has something related to the in dash housing. You really don't want to be pulling the dash for that mess.