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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Thanks Jon for the link. Here's the clip I made today. This is essentially how it should sound once I have the "Real" push rods installed. BTW, the Idle james has set it at is still around 950rpm's. I'm still tuning so right now my adjustable options are still locked.
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Sounds great. Mine idle is set around 950 rpms as well. That is were it has to be with a large cam to avoid dipping in rpms when you let off the gas. Also, if you lower too much it will stall itself.
That's interesting because my mustang is set at 750 rpm's at ilde and it drives fine. It's a little fussy with bucking initially on a dead cold start up if you try to drive it right away but other than that drives like a dream. Either way on The Explorer it still only Chops on park or neutral idle. Still not in "Drive" idle. So far she is holding together. Been resisting the urge to all out WoT her and it's hard considering how much better she feels. I'm not hearing the valve chattery tap noise. But I still hear some kinda sound that is similar to a sewing machine type sound. Hard to explain what exactly it is. Thing is, I notice only in the cab. As soon as I pop the hood to investigate it almost becomes lost :scratch:
Here's a clip of the sound I'm referring to. Note though, this video makes the sound seem louder than how it is heard in real life. But that is the type of sound I'm hearing.
Thomas.
I suggest parking it until you can get the new push rods in.
That sound is tapping very fast. I am "hoping" another push rod has bent a tad.
When you do get the new ones in, handle the "old" ones very carefully.
Find a big piece of glass, like a mirror or glass table top, raise one end to allow the push rod to roll. One at a time, roll them down the glass,and you will hear a bent one. It will not roll smooth, rather make a wobbly sound as it goes down.
She will be parked tonight. And I'll try that when we pull them. I just hope its not a lifter gone bad. I figured with the compression higher this time it may shorten the length of the rods that much more. Thanks Jon, I'll keep everyone posted.
Thanks guys. Literally just a few minutes after that post I found my answer. Took a rocker arm and placed it over the push rod. It has to be the ball end under the rocker. The ball end allows the smooth pivot of the rocker arm otherwise it would bind up. All the new push rods are in. Didn't start it because we left the compression tester at my friend's brother's house and he'd already gone to bed for the night. We wanna test the compression first before firing her back up. So it'll get done tomorrow or soon after.!
Got it started and DIDN'T even drive it. It's just one thing after another. 1st the EGR tube thread for the top nut stripped so that's gonna have to be replaced. 2nd, the engine sounds horrible overall. Something didn't go right. As soon as you put it in Reverse it sounds like a collection of fireworks from a strange back fire. Something didn't get set right or one of the wires is crossed. It's SUPER late so I'm gonna worry about that tomorrow. Sometimes when cranking too it double cranks like a DJ scratching a disc. This is gettin REAL frustrating!!!!!
Crisis averted for the moment!!! Went out this morning inspected the wires. 1 and 2 were crossed in my fatigue from last night. Swapped them around. No more popping. Took her for a drive and ran pretty much like she did this last time. Still not chopping hard enough for me though. Granted I was running without the fan blade on since we initially took it off to check the timing. The only noise actually I'm hearing is that of the EGR tube which I will need to find a suitable replacement.
Hey guys, it's been a while since my last update. Things have been running good overall on the truck. Had two spots leaking coolant. Had to take the fan off and tighten the water pump. a couple of bolts were about a 1/8-1/4 turn loose which stopped after tightening. And the heater hose clamp was a bit loose. Mechanically, the truck seems to run pretty good, gas mileage is a tad bit better than before the new push rods as well. I still need to do a few more data log sessions for James before him releasing all the tunes and options back to me. I just gotta get a hold of a laptop first. Now I noticed there's still a tad bit of valve train noise but nothing like before. No loud constant tapping. I've also thought about switching my exhaust setup again in time. I've contemplated 2 super 44 delta flows turned sideways(muffler sides turned vertical) and then having a true mid-pipe welded preceding them. I have the dual in/out 40 original now and from what I understand the 44 is more aggressive AND has a better flow rate than the 40 series as well. We shall see. here's a quick fly-by clip. It was windy today so it's kinda hard to hear the exhaust. I'd say she sounds healthy though.
Glad to hear it's running better! I have the SCT software setup on my laptop but I haven't been able to get it to work properly for whatever reason. It will only record for about 3 seconds and stop. If I get it to work, I can help you get whatever datalogging you need as well as myself because I want my tune tweaked a little too.
Hey guys finally got more tuning done. James unlocked my device back to me. I also switched back to the stock coils before the last data log session. I wanted it to be the same from the last session and 2 it felt like with the MSD my low end started to feel slightly sluggish. But now after a couple of weeks I'm getting a consistant CEL. (1309) Missfire detection monitor not enabled? I dunno if this could still be related to one or both the coils being bad. Overall I do not feel much of a miss in acceleration. And with it being cammed it's hard to listen to. The other little bug is the shift press went from feeling good to feeling spongy like stock now. Even when I adjust it in the hand held device it just doesn't feel like it's firming up. Its not feeling snappy on hard accelerations at all. Still waiting to hear back from James. In the meantime heres another idle clip.
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P1309 is a cam sensor code, which can be set by a noisy ( electrical) alternator also.
Are you certain the cam sensor is aligned well? You might take the cap off and clean it out.
Also, check the alternator wiring. From what I understand a leaky diode in the voltage regulator on the alternator can cause this code.
