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Planning a 5.0 Overhaul

On start up, get oil pressure and have someone looking for leaks. If no leaks hold the RPM's at 2k for 20 mins to initially seat the rings and pump up the lifters. After that drive it and accelerate hard (not floored) up to 50-60 and then decellerate back down to a lower speed and then accelerate again. Do that for about 20-30 miles. After that just drive it normally, not beating on it for 500 - 800 miles without ever setting the cruise control. The more rpm fluctuation though this period the better. After the first few hundred miles, change the oil and enjoy..
 



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SUCCESS!!! She did not blow up on startup. In fact she didn't even chatter neither. We lubed her up real good and it payed. Only one CEL and that was ignition related because prior to startup we pulled the coil plugs off to prime her up a couple times. The engine pulls real hard starting now. I take it has to do with the higher compression? No engine leaks, since it was late we weren't able to get her onto the highway not too mention we didn't put the front bumper on , only the front clip and lights to drive around the neighborhood (Sorry neighbors :D). There was a little bit of transmission stuttering at first. Probably because of the added tranny cooler it need more fluid. So we poured a little bit more in there and checked the levels. Shifted fine. The only major thing honestly is it idles between 950-1100 rpms. Gotta get that figured out. I'm using a base tune from James but it never gave me the options to set the idle and other variables. Only to upload the tune or cancel. It was under the custom tunes not the per-programmed ones like the original ones from before where I can change shift patterns, rev, idle, A/F etc. I wanna get that set, get her tagged up, then start some data loggin. I can tell she's gonna be a real good AWD daily runner once the bugs are out. I'll get a few clips later on tonight or this weekend. I been SUPER tired between doing this after work the last few nights.
 






SUCCESS!!! She did not blow up on startup. In fact she didn't even chatter neither. We lubed her up real good and it payed. Only one CEL and that was ignition related because prior to startup we pulled the coil plugs off to prime her up a couple times. The engine pulls real hard starting now. I take it has to do with the higher compression? No engine leaks, since it was late we weren't able to get her onto the highway not too mention we didn't put the front bumper on , only the front clip and lights to drive around the neighborhood (Sorry neighbors :D). There was a little bit of transmission stuttering at first. Probably because of the added tranny cooler it need more fluid. So we poured a little bit more in there and checked the levels. Shifted fine. The only major thing honestly is it idles between 950-1100 rpms. Gotta get that figured out. I'm using a base tune from James but it never gave me the options to set the idle and other variables. Only to upload the tune or cancel. It was under the custom tunes not the per-programmed ones like the original ones from before where I can change shift patterns, rev, idle, A/F etc. I wanna get that set, get her tagged up, then start some data loggin. I can tell she's gonna be a real good AWD daily runner once the bugs are out. I'll get a few clips later on tonight or this weekend. I been SUPER tired between doing this after work the last few nights.

I'm glad you lubed her up real good because the first time is always the hardest..............:D

Glad to hear you got it running man! Take your time getting it back together and maybe we can meet up so I can check it out. Also, I was at Starlight Theatre last night to see IL Divo and you don't live to far from there right?
 






I'm glad you lubed her up real good because the first time is always the hardest..............:D

Glad to hear you got it running man! Take your time getting it back together and maybe we can meet up so I can check it out. Also, I was at Starlight Theatre last night to see IL Divo and you don't live to far from there right?

Thanks, I live in Gladstone which is in the Northland area of KC. Another quick question, now that it's cammed is it normal for an OHV motor to be a little bit nosier? I know on my mustang it was a little bit as far as lifter sounds go. I need to find those exhaust caps to really hear it. Standing a few feet away I don't hear nothing but I can hear a little bit of lifter noise as I put my ear a foot away or so. Just looking for some insight.:thumbsup:
 






Video still uploading to Youtube. Here's a few pics I snapped.

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Video still uploading to Youtube. Here's a few pics I snapped.

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That dual cooler setup looks familiar...:shifty_ey. Looks good and gald to hear it's running good!

The lifter noise in normal with a big cam from what I have heard and my experience recently. Mine has .540 intake lift and .560 exhaust w/ dual springs on each valve. You can hear mine "working" as well.
 






Okay took it out last night to get her on the highway a bit. She started missing. Brought her back in the driveways and we could see arching from number 4 and 2 cylinders on the head not wires. Took number 2 and there was a hairline crack.Didn't take any others yet but I did go buy new plugs and will put them in tonight. I noticed that "Lifter" like sound was more noticeable from that side. Maybe that's where my chugging is coming from. But it still idles at 1000-1100 rpms. I don't know why it just doesn't want to lope at all. It bogs only when I shifting from D, R, P. Hmmm is it in the tune? All vacum lines are good.
 






You might get the front end up real high, turn on the heater and make sure all the air is burped from the coolant. If the coolant is not reaching the ect sensor, idle will rise. Just a thought.
 






It may idle high until the temps are stabilized--Turdle did.

Also, you might get a vacuum gauge and adjust the idle set screw-( check TPS voltage) . Try to achieve a low idle, but do not let vacuum drop below like about 16
 






Okay thanks for the tips Jon. We had just straight water pretty much for the start up. Changed the coolant , plugs , and oil tonight. Will try to burp it more either tomorrow or Monday. I got a P0340 CEL tonight on the drive around the block. Cam sensor, moved it around back to where we had it. Seemed to smooth the power band out just a bit but still chugs right off throttle, and idles high. Seems like it wants to chop a little just not there yet. I'm wondering if this base tune I have has something to do with it. I'm gonna start data logging shortly so James can start getting her tweaked.
 






Here's the video from a few nights ago of the first start.
 






Video from this morning displaying the idle issue. Let me mention that my friend did a compression test on all cylinders yesterday and they were all between 148-152psi. I'm not sure what that relates to compression ration but I was told that was pretty healthy. Now another possibilty I was thinking of for the hesistation is poor gas. It was sitting 4 months with maybe 3/8ths tank of fuel. It has higher compression now as well. It seems the more I drive which of now is still under 30 miles has slowly cleared up. The plugs were replaced , wires good. Still haven't measured the TPS voltage yet. Having a hard time reaching the screws through the A/C canister and keep breaking torque bits on them. I also wondering if it just needs to be tuned properly as well.

 






Well, the camshaft will make a difference in idle characteristics, enough that the previous setting might be wacky
It would be nice to know that the tps voltage is below .99 v at idle. if it is higher, idle will be high. Also, the throttle plate opening was good for the stock cam vacuum, but I would think it would need adjusting with a different camshaft.
 






Well, the camshaft will make a difference in idle characteristics, enough that the previous setting might be wacky
It would be nice to know that the tps voltage is below .99 v at idle. if it is higher, idle will be high. Also, the throttle plate opening was good for the stock cam vacuum, but I would think it would need adjusting with a different camshaft.

Okay cool. Geoff reminded me of something that we're gonna check tonight. Along with checking the TPS(If we can get the screw bolts out they're Dead tight and destroying all our torx bits) is that we never put a gasket on the elbow to upper intake. We couldn't find the gasket at the time and just put RTV sealant for the time but now we found it. So hey, it's worth a shot. Process of elimination. Also got the data logging software install on the laptop. Having issues getting the usb signal to recognize he tuner being plugged into the ECU but we'll figure it out. Hope to get her running right soon. Still feels like the valve train is chattery but folks keep telling me that's normal on a more aggressive camshaft. Not to mention the compression on the truck is really good as well. Here pretty soon I still plan on swapping valve covers.
----Jon,
Thought I'd also let you know a few things. I was getting the chirping from the Cam Pos. Sensor. So I tried your idea with the transmission fluid under the cap. Worked like a charm. And I don't know if you've found this out already. Remember how much we fought with the pass. collecter bolts on the header install? Well Geoff wanted me to mention for anyone who struggles that a swivel head ratchet works wonders in that area. Also, would you happen to still have that link to the correct valve covers I'd need and with enough clearance for my rockers.
 






You can get a 3/16" thick fel pro "cork lam" gasket

This valve cover set has the oil fill at the right place, and a closed off driver side cover
Ford Racing M-6000-K302R

Ford Racing EFI Truck valve cover

ford_racing_M-6000-K302R.jpg


http://performanceparts.com/part/Ford-Racing/M-6000-K302R

I googled that link. You might want to shop around. Hopefully they will clear the rockers.
 






Thanks Jon. I'll have to measure my valve covers now and compare to these ones. They look nice,just gotta save for a bit to get them. Question about tuning, I got the live link 6.5 software downloaded on a laptop. My X3 device comes on when connected to the laptop. But for some reason it's not letting me start a data logging session. Is there a step I'm missing. James told me to look at the help section on SCT's website but that didn't really help too much. :scratch:
 






I had similar problems when datalogging and still have problems keeping a conection for more than a couple minutes or less sometimes. When you open the program click on "I want to datalog a vehicle" and it will guide you though the steps. If you have a wide band sensor make sure that is plugged into the hand held first. Then:

1st - connect the USB cable to the hand held.
2nd - connect the OBDII connector to the truck.
3rd - I turn the truck to ON (Just before start, it says to start the vehicle)
4th - Click on "check communication"
5th - if it is communicating with the truck at this point you should be able to datalog. Then you have to select the parameters that James has told you to record in the example. Save this configuration so you can load it with a click of a button after you did it once. After the parameters are selected you can begin to datalog.

I usually start the datalog first and then start my truck.. I seem to have slightly better success this way. If at any point the computer looses connection with your truck you have to shut the truck off, unplug everything, and start over.. It's a PITA.
 






^^ not to mention if it does hang up, sometimes a total restart of your laptop is needed.

I have not messed with the SCT stuff for over 2 years. I wish I could be of more help
 






Ok, just reporting in here real quick. Racked up only about 300 miles on the engine so far. Seems to sound a bit healthier than before and is gaining some decent mid power just from the normal driving. Still down shifts too much for my liking though. She still also idles a tad too high but is starting to slowly calm down. My low end is still not there though I've noticed. I got One revised data logged tune so far. He told me my driver said had an exhaust leak or bad o2 sensor somewhere. So I replaced my driver's o2 sensor and resealed the collector flange with more copper sealnt. Quieted down a bit. Luckily the header was not leaking. I'm also still dealing with an issue of it stalling when putting it in reverse on a hill. It like to bog down a bit regardless when shifting outta park into other gears. Any ideas? I'll continue data logging until I can get her to all these hiccups are no more.
 



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Here's a couple newer clips from a few nights ago.





 






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