Post Timing Chain Installation Blue

[doctordeeptrack]

I installed new timing chains and tensioners from NAPA about 5 months ago. I used Cloyes. Did a complete engine removal on the stand to accomplish this. Had to do a job in Santa Monica and left it idle till just now. I finished the install. New gaskets thermostat etc and replaced all the wiring and hoses and fired it up. It ran smooth and quiet for about 15 seconds. I heard a sinister little click and it went right back to the nasty shaking and clattering that I had hoped to cure. I purchased the special OTC 6488 4.0 SOHC cam tool kit to do the install and took my time so I feel like the cams were properly installed especiall in light of the fact that it started immediately and smoothly. Someone help me here if my Ranger inexperience shows but the only way I can see to check the driver side tensioner is to remove the intake. I did so. Also removed driver side valve cover. The cassette looks good and the chain looks good. Upon removing the tesioner I noticed that no oil came out of it. Shouldn't it be full? I turned the motor over with the tensioner out to check the oil galley and it was clear and pumped out oil into the tensioner hole. I primed the tensioer with a squirt can and reassembled. Same clacking and rough running. Any ideas?

 

[2000StreetRod]

lash adjusters?

Does the clacking sound like valve clatter? The hydraulic lash adjusters will drain after an extended period of sitting. It took me about 20 minutes of driving to get them all to quiet down.

 

[CDW6212R]

Subscribing, I've got a Cloyes kit to install very soon. I hope you figure that one out, and Dale is right it could take a bit to fill all of the oil passages.

 

[doctordeeptrack]

#5 needs more input

Thanks street rod. I drove around the block a couple of times and it has run for a total of about 10 minutes but the clicking scares me. I do not want to magnetically pick pieces out of the sump. I will run a little longer and see what happens. As for more input. Was the tensioner supposed to be full of oil?
also do I have to remove the intake manifold to check the front tensioner or is there a way to sneak in by the thermostat? How do you prime your tensioners? Now that you mention it that sound could be collapsed lifters.

 

[doctordeeptrack]

helpful videos

After searching the web and throwing out all the garbage info as near as I could make it I did find two videos that in conjunction with the Chilton or Haynes and the Cam Installation Tool Manual made this job a little easier to understand. Realize of course that I am a novice. I do have Harley and Honda papers from MMI Phoenix but that does not make me a car mechanic. If you search "2001 4.0L V6 Ford Ranger timing chain installation" two videos almost always prominently appear. One is by a guy named Dirtbike 5000 or something like that and he has 2 videos that are good and the other is a series of 3 or 4 videos by a guy name Cruzroy. He knows what he's doing and has some practical down home solutions for a couple of special tools and situations. If you are a Texan like me it is difficult to listen to that doofy, yankee, Boston accent. Or he could be a Mainer. I don't know but watching it done by someone else seems to give me the confidence to do it myself.
Hey Street Rod, like a newbie I put all the original bolts back in the thing. Is it going to come apart in 10K because I did not replace "Torque to Yield" items with new bolts?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ranger configuration

Some members have been able to replace the front hydraulic tensioners without removing the intake manifold. However, there are multiple intake manifold configurations. Your Ranger is different than my Explorer so I don't know if it must be removed.

It's always good to oil the tensioner and manually test it prior to installation. Make sure it doesn't stick in the retracted or extended positions.

 

[2000StreetRod]

reusing TTY bolts

. . . Hey Street Rod, like a newbie I put all the original bolts back in the thing. Is it going to come apart in 10K because I did not replace "Torque to Yield" items with new bolts?

Many members reuse their torque-to-yield bolts. Usually, reusing them once results in no problems although the bolts are weakened each time they are reused. You'll probably be fine.

 

[doctordeeptrack]

just noticed a small oil drip from the rear tensioner dripping onto the catalytic converter. nice fire hazard. I'm guessiung first try and torque it down a little tighter. It does have a silver metal sealing washer.

 

[Mike65]

When I did both of the hydraulic tensioners on my wife's 99 Sport 4.0 SOHC the r/s rear was easy, & the l/s front I had to remove the upper & lower thermostat housings & using a long extension I was able to replace it. I used Cloyes tensioners.