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Preventative Maintenance

C420sailor

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 29, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
My ‘98 Ex has a 2010 Ranger SOHC long block in it, with 150k on the engine. Chains sound great, but I think it’s well past time to replace the hydraulic tensioners. I’m trying to formulate a list of ‘while I’m in there’ items.

Tensioners x2
Intake manifold gaskets
EGR to manifold o-ring
Clean IAC and throttle body

Can y’all think of anything else that’s easily accessible with all that junk removed? It’s been about six years...
 



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Why start the (complicated) chain process with a good sounding engine? You might get a lot more mileage out of your engine, and these things do not seem to explode without warning, but rather start to rattle on cold starts....

You obviously take good care of your truck.
 






No internal parts, just the external hydraulic tensioners. I know the recommendation is to change every 75k, but I’ve been lazy.

She’s my girl. I have three vehicles (and one other ex), but she is my daily driver, ride or die. I do a lot of road trips with her, so I like to keep her tip top. 317k and counting!
 






Replacing your tensioners sounds great
USE MOTORCRAFT UNITS ONLY
Check your belt and pulleys
Radiator hoses and t stat
 






i remember the 00M12 kit coming with the metal washer/gasket for the tensioner...if you buy the tensioner individually, does it come with the metal gasket washer?
 






I bought my 98 Sport new and work to maintain it too last as long as possible. These are all cost effective to do.

One big thing is clean all your grounds and battery cable connections. Dirty and loose or corroded connections can cause all kinds of crazy problems.

I upgraded my grounds and added some better ones with this 6 gauge cable kit -


These battery clamps - Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Positive Negative For Ford Jeep RV Van | eBay

Once a year critical maintenance.
1) Positive cable from battery to power distribution box to mega fuse and cable to alternator stud. Battery to starter.
2) Negative battery cable to core support short cable. Cable to starter stud.

Chassis grounds - I do every 2- 3 years.
1) behind battery is a ground single wire eyelet.
2) Braided strap ground from engine cylinder head to wiper motor stud. Upgraded to 6 gauge.
3) PCM ground next to PCM in firewall 2 wires on separate eyelets. Added 6 gauge wire from cylinder head bolt to this one.
4) behind coolant tank single wire eyelet.
5) behind drivers side kick panel major interior ground. Added 6 gauge cable direct to battery. Fuel pump uses this ground.
6) along the underside on the frame, each side is a braided cable ground.

Intake service - Twice a year.

K&N air filter- Hot tip keep the old filter to use when servicing the K&N. Let the K&N dry for 3 days or so before use.

CRC Quick Dry Electronic cleaner spray for everything below.

After loosening clamps on air intake tube I spray some cleaner between tube and MAF and TB to help loosen the tube.
Examine air intake tube for cracks and or leaks.

MAF sensor. TIP - Screws are security screws. I filed a slot in each screw, so I can use a standard screwdriver.

Spray the MAF sensor wires, keep nice and shiny.

IAT sensor spray with cleaner. Rotate in air intake tube to clean evenly.

TB Throttle body. Use a bungee cord to hold the TB open. I spray the cleaner on a clean old t-shirt and wipe off
TB plate. Once clean this is all you need to do to maintain it.


Ford plastic vacuum lines.
Replace with rubber lines and new connectors. Before you have problems.

Rubber hose match up correct size at parts store from bulk. I used Advance auto.
Connectors - Dorman 47380 Vacuum Connector Value Pack.
Replacement Ford connectors are available at part stores.


Pass side under glove box on firewall.
2 vacuum lines go into engine bay.
One goes to the heater hose shut off valve.
One goes to the vacuum ball reservoir located under the air intake box. This reservoir is available from dorman and on ebay.
When you your A/C is only coming out of the defrost vents, replace this ball.

I replaced both lines, bypassed the firewall connection and drilled a hole nearby. It was too hard to get the factory connector.

You can just go around the engine bay and replace the plastic lines you see.

This works for me no problems. Save me quite a few I do believe!

DR




 






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