Project thread: “Beast”

[Fix4Dirt]

Which as a plumber.. anything with a gasket is also hand tight and a quarter turn. Should have made the same connection here lol.

not two ugha dugga? i kid i kid

 

[97Sandbox]

But the real issue I want to make sure I am not making worse, my bolts for the control arms can’t come out because of the TMH. The bolts slide out and then hit the pipes. I tried lots of angels and moving it around and such. My next idea is cutting the bolt as short as I can and still fit the adjustment plate and nut on.

What type of camber bolts are in there now? I just did this job last week with TMHs on my Mounty. The camber bolts that were installed had the eccentric washer pressed onto the head side of the bolt and the only way I got them out was cutting them. But the new Mevotech camber bolts I installed had the inner washers loose just like the outers and I had no trouble installing them.

 

[TribeZ]

What type of camber bolts are in there now? I just did this job last week with TMHs on my Mounty. The camber bolts that were installed had the eccentric washer pressed onto the head side of the bolt and the only way I got them out was cutting them. But the new Mevotech camber bolts I installed had the inner washers loose just like the outers and I had no trouble installing them.

Yea I have the older plate and nut style. I cut them and it worked well. Still barely got them out but shouldn’t effect being able to adjust them If needed. I haven’t tightened my front end back up yet. I also did not have new wheel grease I didn’t realize I was swapping the bearings to change the front rotors. I wanna buy some new grease and pull and pack them again. And I need my new passenger side abs sensor. I got the metal pit with a screw driver and hammer after the inside of the adapter came apart without the metal sleeve.

Edit:

Both sides done. Got a new passenger abs sensor, got more wheel grease and made sure to lube those good.

My driver side LBJ barely needed any assistance getting into the arm. And took some creative thinking to make sure it wasn’t spinning. But I suspect I need to change the whole arm, or have someone tack weld that sucker in… but that’s a long term solution/problem lol.

I still need l bleed brakes, and I need set the new pads to rotors on the way to get an alignment. Hopefully that wasn’t a bad call to do all same time.

Should be finishing it up during the week, or I have the tires back on for now so may just let it sit until the weekend before finishing it up.

 

[TribeZ]

Hopefully my thread is entertaining..

So my brakes were bleeding well, lots of pumps was seeing pure fluid clear everywhere. Brakes felt good in park car off.. started car up and as I switched to reverse the brake losses pressure and goes to the floor. I’m not on the flattest surface.. and I roll back. Now I don’t have a working e-brake.. so instead of dropping it into gear which may have worked, I tried to shove it into park. It clicked and didn’t grab, and I rolled back onto my other car. Broken tail light on my Mazda.. which I got coming in the mail Saturday.. miraculously no damage to the xploder but a paint scuff. Was worried my door was gonna be messed up at first but nothing I can notice.

So I assumed I have lots of air somewhere still mainly because my brake fluid drained completely during install. So when I get back to it today I’m going to get a bottle setup and flush a fill quart through the system before trying again. I hope I didn’t hurt anything else by flooring the brake so hard. My master cylinder is newer so fingers crossed .

 

[TribeZ]

Front calipers were on the wrong sides. Had bleeders on the bottom, and then also found the L and R markings..

Flipped those, bleed my brakes excessively. They work again!

Front end all torqued up, I need to set the rotors and pads and get and alignment now.

Then onward to interior work again. This weekend will now be dash LED swap and final touches for next upcoming road trip may 16th!

For the dash I already sanded down the gauges from donor and have all the green tint removed. Left all other alert lights and such stock and will only be changing out the 5 main lights. With red LED. I already did the middle some light warm white they are nicely bright. And I have red for the license plate lights.

 

[410Fortune]

You are changing the pass uca to the one piece? You must install camber shims if you go the the one piece passenger side. If that is the case you can cut the factory bolts

They will not be able to
Align your truck if you did not install correction shims on the passenger side
From the pics it looks like you did but they are black? I am used to seeing them chromed

Red license plate lights? Displaying red blue green will get you pulled over up here in Idaho they are really cracking down

 

[TribeZ]

You are changing the pass uca to the one piece? You must install camber shims if you go the the one piece passenger side. If that is the case you can cut the factory bolts

They will not be able to
Align your truck if you did not install correction shims on the passenger side
From the pics it looks like you did but they are black? I am used to seeing them chromed

Red license plate lights? Displaying red blue green will get you pulled over up here in Idaho they are really cracking down

I did not add any shims unless the Moog arm has them built in. I was told Moog was one of the one piece arms that was able to be aligned so maybe they have it built in?

Where do the shims go if I do have them or need to put them in?

And dang maybe I should skip the license plate light, it is only the rear license plate one I am going to do. I don’t have any lights for the front.

 

[410Fortune]

Any one piece arm on pass side will require 2.5 degree correction camber shims

The shims are a set of bolts and washers that go in place of the factory bolts and spacers
They install where the uca bolts to the frame

Did the Moog parts come with shims? Because it appears you have shims installed in the picture they are just black in color

 

[TribeZ]

Any one piece arm on pass side will require 2.5 degree correction camber shims

The shims are a set of bolts and washers that go in place of the factory bolts and spacers
They install where the uca bolts to the frame

Did the Moog parts come with shims? Because it appears you have shims installed in the picture they are just black in color

I cut and re-used the bolt that had the built in plate, other side is another plate and a nut. I cut the bolts short to get them out but re-used those same bolts, the only new piece moog had was the holder bolt for the ball joint.

Anything in the picture would be built into the arm. They have outside washer looking things with notches on them when I assume are the shins you’re seeing? Which picture are they in?

I assume this one ?

I also included a picture of the moogs open box.

I appreciate your wisdom and patience 410

 

[410Fortune]

Don’t forget to clean the oil off that brake rotor

Here are the shims you need and must install if you want alignment

 

[TribeZ]

Don’t forget to clean the oil off that brake rotor

Here are the shims you need and must install if you want alignment

I don’t see a link

Are these what we are talking?

1995-2001 Ford Explorer Alignment Caster Camber Kit - Replacement 961-108 - Front - PartsGeek.com

Those were on the original bolts. So I’m thinking it’s something else.

 

[410Fortune]

No I think you nailed it
Looks like somebody has already replaced your factory spacers w camber shims

Those are camber correction shims

I am used to getting the whole kit comes w bolts and eccentric washers etc

2002 FORD RANGER 3.0L V6 Cooling System Parts | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[TribeZ]

No I think you nailed it
Looks like somebody has already replaced your factory spacers w camber shims

Those are camber correction shims

I am used to getting the whole kit comes w bolts and eccentric washers etc

2002 FORD RANGER 3.0L V6 Cooling System Parts | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Sweet yea I happen to have those already then. Going for an alignment later today.

 

[Wrath]

Next was these;

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Explorer/Powerstop/Brake_Disc_and_Caliper_Kit/2001/P15KC185536.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=20882398558&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqpSwBhClARIsADlZ_TkzM8Br6KdWuesnfnYlpwVx7OrehC_W83LlX5T8ORsR8CUFL5PHyrEaAlorEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Are powerstop breaks gimmicky ? I just want the red powder coated calipers mainly. But the rotors would be an upgraded over OEM style rotor I assume ?

I've read that drilled rotors tend to crack starting at the holes. Not sure if the slots would cause a similar issue.

 

[Wrath]

Will be after the blender door on hoping the donors isn’t broken. I plan to use tomorrow for some more deconstructions. Taking the holiday today.

Check out Heater Treater. They make metal replacement blend doors to replace the plastic factory door. I have them in two of my Explorers.

Ford Explorer '95-'02

Failure of your heat and/or A/C in your Ford Explorer is due to the failure of your blend door. Heater Treater replaces the cheap, plastic blend door with steel. Replacing the blend door with the same plastic part from the manufacturer WILL result in continued problems — the same system design...

heatertreater.net

 

[Blown]

Go man, sounds like it is coming together nicely.

Jeez, I almost ran over myself once. I slipped under the rig real quick and bumped the shifter cable which was enough to take it out of park. The driveway was not too steep and I was able to roll out...................not without a couple of scrapes. I always use my wheel chocks, even after fixing and tightening-up the shifter lever issue.

I am going for those, assuming they are Power Stop Brakes? I am not sure which pad, Z36 for towing or Z23 sport brakes? What'd you get?

 

[TribeZ]

I've read that drilled rotors tend to crack starting at the holes. Not sure if the slots would cause a similar issue.

Yea 410 mentioned that too.

I kept my other set of rotors they were not that worn. So if I need to change them back out in the future I’m ready lol.

 

[TribeZ]

Go man, sounds like it is coming together nicely.

Jeez, I almost ran over myself once. I slipped under the rig real quick and bumped the shifter cable which was enough to take it out of park. The driveway was not too steep and I was able to roll out...................not without a couple of scrapes. I always use my wheel chocks, even after fixing and tightening-up the shifter lever issue.

I am going for those, assuming they are Power Stop Brakes? I am not sure which pad, Z36 for towing or Z23 sport brakes? What'd you get?

I did the z36. But they are the same thing just one has rubber / plastic brackets z23, and the z36 have metal clips.

I mainly wanted the red calipers . But the whole kit I got for 590 on sale at summit racing. They had a promotion going and the part was discounted.

They also sell the parts all individually. The pads and just calipers if you don’t want the rotors was only like 280$ total.

 

[Blown]

Thx............I have had those in my cart at Summit for some time but have too many other projects.

I found this from Power Stop: "Both kits are an improvement above any OEM setup. The Z36 does offer about 25-30% more stopping power than stock, while the Z23 is good for about 15-20% better than stock. Z23 will have less brake dust overall, and will last a bit longer. Z36 pads are made from a slightly different materials to get that better stopping power, but they will produce a little more dust and overall life of the Z36 pads is about 10-15% less than Z23."

 

[TribeZ]

Thx............I have had those in my cart at Summit for some time but have too many other projects.

I found this from Power Stop: "Both kits are an improvement above any OEM setup. The Z36 does offer about 25-30% more stopping power than stock, while the Z23 is good for about 15-20% better than stock. Z23 will have less brake dust overall, and will last a bit longer. Z36 pads are made from a slightly different materials to get that better stopping power, but they will produce a little more dust and overall life of the Z36 pads is about 10-15% less than Z23."

Oh dang for some reason the pads seemed like the same item when I was looking at parts individually. More stopping power is nice in general for me I don’t mind the pad wear and am used to dust but these should still have a lot less then standard pads. Good to know.