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Question on Details of Power Window Repair, '91 EB

Lee Iaccoca

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January 8, 2008
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City, State
Washington, DC metro-area
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Explorer EB
I have an EB Explorer '91 4dr with 200k on the clock. Its been in the family since the summer of 1990 and been using synthetics for the last 150k. The rig has good axles, an ok 4.0 engine, and Warn manual hubs were installed about 50k miles ago. So I am generally not interested in giving her up in favor of something more modern (...but with a drive train likely not much more durable).

However, all four power windows are not working. The motors in each door work (hear motor when each switch activated), but the glass won't drop or raise. I have tried greasing the guides on the side of each window with sprayable silicone with no luck. I have cracked in to the drivers side door and cleaned off/ sprayed silicone on the "metal rails" (?). Still no go, even for the drivers window.

While reading the forum here, I noticed that people were fixing their own power windows by replacing the nylon gears in each (if they had deteriorated). I might give this a go myself -- gear sets are only $15 a door.

My real question is though: How do I access the power window motor and or these gears? Do I unscrew the bolts I see on the door when I remove the trim panel, then somehow slide the motor contraption through the large holes in the door metal? Do I somehow remove the metal panel to access a doors respective power window mechanism? Its not entirely clear to me. Thanks! :salute:
 



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If I remember correctly you have to drill holes in the door sheet metal to access the motor bolts without removing the window regulator. Look for small dimples around the motor area, should be three. I drill them out to 1/2" and then you can get a socket in to remove the bolts, then pop the motor off and remove it thru the hole in the door.

Might be a good idea to run some duct or masking tape over the top of the door and keep the glass up while doing this, they don't usually move with the motor out but sometimes will.........when you install the motor, start the bolts and then be prepared to flip the window switch briefly to line up the gears BEFORE you tighten the motor bolts.
 






The window is spring loaded. It cannot 'fall' with the motor un-bolted.

Ryan
 






BT: so a ford tech has to drill holes in the door metal to do any kind of repairs on the motors/gears at a dealership service center? That sounds a little extreme (but it certainly encourages one to buy a newer Ex when one gets the labor estimate for such a job :eek:)

When I took the door panel off the drivers door, I saw several brass colored nuts apparently affixed to bolts in the door holding the power window motor and sliding mechanism inside (sorry don't know terminology for the mechanisms). You sure its not a matter of just unscrewing these nuts and somehow sliding the lift contraption out of the 6-8 inch hole in the metal which the plastic door panel fits over?
 






BT: so a ford tech has to drill holes in the door metal to do any kind of repairs on the motors/gears at a dealership service center? That sounds a little extreme (but it certainly encourages one to buy a newer Ex when one gets the labor estimate for such a job :eek:)

When I took the door panel off the drivers door, I saw several brass colored nuts apparently affixed to bolts in the door holding the power window motor and sliding mechanism inside (sorry don't know terminology for the mechanisms). You sure its not a matter of just unscrewing these nuts and somehow sliding the lift contraption out of the 6-8 inch hole in the metal which the plastic door panel fits over?

You can remove the entire assembly, just no reason to so if the motor is the problem. Most Fords of that era have the dimples I mentioned, some actually have holes from the factory so you can access the motor bolts. Removing the regulator is a bunch more work than it's worth in this case.
 












All four power windows are dead in the water. But the motors in each apparently still work (hear them running when the switches are pressed). Strangely, when it rains and water gets on the glass, the driver's window (it recently received silcone lube on the vertical rubber channels holding the window) starts performing relatively normally -- I don't have to hold the window and push down to lower and grip it to raise it.

I am guessing that it could be an unseen lubrication issue somewhere in each of the doors (we're talking 200k on this explorer) that's causing friction which is obstructing the lift/lowering action in each. I also suspect that the nylon gears may have deteriorated and that replacement of them in each door is the only way to restore power window function.

How much does that "factory" (?) service manual you have run, BT? You know where I can buy it? Thanks
 






Not a factory manual, I don't work for Ford anymore. We use an Alldata service at the shop. Much of what they have is just copied from factory manuals. I doubt you can still order that manual, but try Helms (I think that's the right name) they were the publishers of Ford service lit for quite a while.

Window Gear failures were/are common on Fords products of this and earlier eras.
 






unless someone has already replaced the nylon pegs in the motors before now, there should be (2) 10mm headed bolts that can be readily taken out and the dimple that needs to be drilled is most likely obscured by the speakers, which must be removed.

the nylon pegs/pins can be bought at AutoZone or other stores. I chucked up some delrin rod (plastic) and cut my own on a mini lathe, plus a bunch more for spares... they came in handy. Yesterday, I replaced the broken pegs in a '91 Ford pickup. Made me a tidy bit of extra change. A shop wanted $75 per window to put in used motors. I did them both with 25 cents of delrin and only charged the guy $60 total. only took about 30 min.

....ain't retirement fun..........jjf
 






The other thing is if I do just pull the motor out in each door (without removing the entire assembly), are those nylon replacement gears guys here talk about somehow attached to each window motor?
 












Thanks. That's good to know. Looks like I will be pulling out four power window motors before too long to check the gears.
 






Tip, every time you wash the vehicle, try to remember to spray WD40 on the outer window edges, along the felt/guides. That will improve the ease of the window to go up and down.
 






question folks. all 4 windows have quit in my g/f's 91 Eddie Bauer. I have the drivers door apart and the motor works, the regulator drive gear is turning but the windows won't budge. what am I missing here? the teeth look fine on the motor gear and they feel ok on the regulator. the regulator is well lubed and the window moves freely in the track....it just doesn't sound like the motor is engaging the regulator. I compared the motor with one out of my full sized Bronco and the teeth on the Broncos motor do look taller. can the gears be worn that bad that they won't engage the regulator?
 






Rebuild the motor gear section, there are plastic parts in them which fall apart. Take the tiny screw off that cover and find out if you need just the three "pucks", or the whole group with the round gear. Parts stores carry both kinds of parts.
 












so the outer gear will still turn if the nylon bushings are shot, but won't turn under a load...ie, engaged to the regulator? I just want to be sure.....replacing all 4 motors would get expensive, even if I can find a 91 in the local salvage yard.
 






The motors rarely ever fail, that's why the gearing parts are plastic, they fail.

FYI, you can use a 2001 Explorer window motor, they should all swap. I have 99 motors in my 91 and 93 doors, from building one truck from two.
 






so the outer gear will still turn if the nylon bushings are shot, but won't turn under a load...ie, engaged to the regulator? I just want to be sure.....replacing all 4 motors would get expensive, even if I can find a 91 in the local salvage yard.
I guarantee 100% that your problem is the bushings. It happens to every 1st gen. The gear itself may not even be messed up. I have replaced the bushings in all four of my doors. Just follow the guide I posted above and it'll be a piece of cake. Just a bit time consuming.
 



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I'll give it a try. Already drilled the access hole for the third bolt and had the motor out...but the outer gear turning threw me. She can run the A/C until next weekend. Thanks y'all.
 






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