How to: removing front diff on a 95+

I figure that since I've done this twice (once to regear and once to install a locker) and figured out a faster [than the book] way to do this, that I should share my info. It took me about 1.5 hrs to drop and the same time to reinstall the second time.

1) Jack up passenger side; remove tire; remove center cap on tire; remount tire with two or three lug nuts; set back down and remove axle nut that is now accessible; (Its at 200+ ft/lbs so you need a good long breaker bar) jack up again; remove tire; set jack stand under A arm; remove brake caliper; remove shock; remove ABS wire from clips

2) Unhook front driveshaft

3) Start up engine and carefully turn wheels to the right to near full lock

4) mark alignment cams (on upper A arm bolts) with current rotation so that you don’t screw up your alignment when reinstalled; remove upper A arm bolts (note: in any book it will say to separate the upper A arm from the spindle but I could never get this joint apart on either side the first time I did this); spindle will now fall out allowing you to remove half axle from hub assembly (if it doesn't come out like shown it the picture, jack the truck up from the cross-member allowing the passenger A arm to droop more)

EDIT: Like it mentions later in this thread, it is easier to remove the upper ball joint, rather than the A-arm. You just need to remove the pinch bolt completely to get it loose, which I never tried.

5) using a pry-bar or large screwdriver between the axle housing and inner CV, being careful not to damage the seal, pry the two apart (you’ll feel it click and move ½”); remove half axle being careful not to damage bearings in housing (Warning: Gear oil will start leaking out this opening now)

6) pry driver side half axle just like passenger side; place jack under diff and remove three bolts holding diff; carefully lower diff while moving it to the passenger side until you’re able to remove driver side half axle from housing; as soon as breather tube is accessible remove it from housing

7) install locker, etc

Reinstall by reversing procedure

 

[JasonF]

upper ball joint

Thanks for the great writeup. My question pertains to the upper ball joint. Is this what you couldn't remove so you unbolted the entire upper control arm instead? I am about to replace my upper ball joints so I will have no choice but to separate this from the steering knuckle. Since I can't think of any creative way to use a press or puller on this joint does everyone resort to a pickle fork and a sledge hammer??

Jason

 

[taxx]

First time you pop it off it is a bear. I got it with a pickle fork and a 5lbs sledge. If you are replacing it anyways you can wale on that upper controll arm cause the whole arm is replaced for the upper BJ.

Just remember to take the retaining bolt out of the knuckle first

 

[Jefe]

Every time after I posted this thread I took it apart at the upper ball joint. Know why I couldn't get it apart, even with a 5lb sledge?

Originally posted by taxxman2k
Just remember to take the retaining bolt out of the knuckle first

I figured it was just a pinch bolt, and so I left the bolt in there, loose, while I hammered away. Well its got a lip that catches the bolt.

 

[JasonF]

LOL talk about learning that one the hard way. Good to know, thanks guys!

Jason

 

[Hank3rd]

I am going to repair my leaking front differential. I am glad this information
was here! I was hoping that someone could tell me if the front differential
cover uses a gasket or silicone. Also what is the proceedure if it is silicone?
Also, I do not know what type of oil to use in the stock differential. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 2000 xls.

 

[Hank3rd]

Oppps. I responded to the wrong post earlier. I am looking to find out what type of fluid the stock differential uses and if there is a gasket or silicone on the cover.

Any help would be great.

 

[Jefe]

Oppps. I responded to the wrong post earlier. I am looking to find out what type of fluid the stock differential uses and if there is a gasket or silicone on the cover.

Any help would be great.

I use RTV to seal it up, and I'm not even sure anyone makes a gasket for our D35 anyway. As for oil, any gear oil will do. I think ford recommends a non-synthetic 75-90w for the front.

 

[Hank3rd]

Jefe,

I was able to complete the job. I used high temp RTV sealant. I took a tets drive and the front shook at about 60 mph. It got me worried, so I returned home. Later, I could not get the problem to recourr right away. I am hoping that since the X has been sitting for a while and that the brake has been off for a few days that it was the pads causing the problem.

I was wondering what the specs for the torque of the hub nut is? I noticed you stated that it was baout 200 pnds for the removal, but is it 200 to install. The only torque bar I have goes up to 85 pnds. I just tighened the hell out of it. If this may be the problem, I may have a shop torque it.

I also noticed that my 4wd now engages more harshly, especialy 4 wheel low from neutral. I hope that it is normal. Does anyone know if the front axles move when in 2 wheel drive?

Jefe, Great tutoral by the way!

-Hank

 

[jasonb]

the front axles move in 2wd. they move if the wheels are moving. if you don't have a torque wrench high enough, just tighten that axle nut as hard as you can with a breaker bar and use some lock tite.
the shaking.. maybe you put the dshaft back on the front diff at 180° from original. they are supposedly balanced and this matters. i did this and had bad vibes. rotated it the 180° and it was better.
about the 4wd engaging more harshly.. not really sure. mine engages with a nice clunk and always has. i'll let someone else answer that!

 

[Hank3rd]

Hmmm. I ended taking both off, I wonder if I will have to remove both and reset them?

I wonder if there is a way to tell what way they need to go on.

 

[jasonb]

you should mark it before you remove it really. i did just that but i didn't use anything permanent and it got wiped off..

 

[Hank3rd]

I took it for a ride today and the shaking did not happen. I am hoping for the best.

 

[gmycyk]

I took it for a ride today and the shaking did not happen. I am hoping for the best.

My 94 also has a front differential that's leaking. Is the precedure described earlier in this thread the same for the 94? Or would I just be better off having a mechanic do the job?

 

[Hank3rd]

Good question. I do not know if the 94 is the same. I think that 96-2001 are the same. Most of the work is labor and a $4.00 tube of RTV and gear oil. If you bring it to a mechanic, most of the charge will be for labor.

I guess you could call a dealer and ask if the differential is simular in you model to a newer one.

Good luck!

 

[jasonb]

gmyck.. your's is very easy. much much easier than the 95+. all you have to do is remove the cover. its already within reach and accessible.

 

[jwrezz]

Does any one know if I can do this (remove front diff) ahead of time, but put my hubs, spindles, etc. back together, and actually use my truck while the front diff is out? It would make sense, there are lots of 2wd explorers out there!

I'd like to just take it out one weekend, and put every thing in it (gears and locker) the next, and put the diff back in the 3rd wknd. This time of year my weekends are really busy, but 2 hours for 3 Saturdays in a row would be do-able. Thanx,

 

[Jefe]

To quote myself from another thread:

In order to drive around without the half shafts, you have to find a way to hold the hub assembly together, as that is one of the jobs of the outer CV cup. Without it you'll get a few miles down the road and then loose a tire. I learned the hard way.

I took apart a couple of old shafts and salvaged the outer CV cups along with the axle nut, and ran like that for a good 3 months before my SAS. Pic:

 

[jwrezz]

The actual hub assembly seperated? I guess the end of the axle, and nut keep the hub together. I wouldn't have figured that, I just did my hubs, and it seemed that they'd be fine on there w/ out the axle. Well thanx for the warning. I'll have to go get an old cv shaft and seperate the end. I knew I should've saved that one I replaced!

 

[GJarrett]

Yeah, if I remember correctly, I think Johnstone tried to drive awhile like that when he blew a CV and ended up with his tire separating from his SportTrac on the road......

 

[Bronco638]

I used Jeff's procedure to swap front axles on my '96. This is an excellent write-up and I wanted to post a few notes;

I was able to separate the upper ball joint from the spindle. You will need to remove the pinch bolt completely (as previously mentioned). Force (4 lb. hammer) applied to the upper control arm, just to the rear of the ball joint, worked for me. It wouldn't hurt to shoot some PB Blaster (or the like) in the split (on the back side) in the spindle. On reassembly, I used anti-seize compound on the ball joint stub and the pinch bolt.

Also, I wondered why Jeff chose to turn the wheels, full lock, to the right. When the spindle is rotated downward, to release the CV shaft, if the wheels aren't in that position, the steering arm will cause the spindle to rotate forward as it swings downward. This doesn't allow the CV shaft to come free.

Since my truck has the vacuum disconnect, I removed it which allowed some gear oil to drain (but not all). Disconnecting the passenger side axle-tube-to-frame bolt and the rear driver side support-bracket-to-frame bolt allowed more drainage (again, but not all). It's enough to keep you from lying in a pool of oil during the rest of the removal procedure.

On installation, I found the snap clip in the driver's side CV Shaft to be a little tough to get into the locker. I had to sit on the ground in the passenger side wheel well, and use my legs to push on the axle tube to get it to snap into place. Once that was complete, everything else was easy.

I purchased a cheapie funnel with a long flexible tube for filling the diff. I snaked the flex tube thru the driver's side upper control arm, to the rear of the shock body and into the fill hole. This allows hands for free filling and you'll be able to keep an eye out for when the fluid begins to leak out (indicating the diff is full). Since I was swapping axles (and installing a locker), I took the opportunity to have a drain plug installed in the front cover. I put the drain in the 'hump' (to clear the ring gear) on the cover. With the way the frame is oriented, there's actually more clearance (2") with the drain on the 'hump' than if it were on the flat area of the cover (1.5" or less). The diff won't completely drain with the plug in that location but 90% will.