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Robb's SAS

actually, im past the Lowes, if your coming from 81, down the hill just past Lowes, and make a left onto 19th st, 2nd stop sign... im on that corner.
 



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Cory, what about the adaptor for the front driveshaft?? did ya find out anything on that yet??
 






for reference. i got ranger box, steering shaft (from firewall to box), drag link, pitman arm from 1990 ranger for $50 at local yard. They pulled it all.

local mahine shop quoted me $50 to lengthen my drive shaft 1.5".. i think thats the insider deal since i work with the guy's son.

what kind of adapter are you guys needing for your driveshaft? to adapt to yoke? (sorry if you already covered this - this thread has become epic and im too lazy to reread it all)
 






yeah, the yolk on the t-case is for a CV joint, not sure when they started it but its a pain in the ass. 6 bolt round piece.
 






your trying to eliminate the cv style driv shaft or convert to ubolt style hook up on old jeeps or something?
 






Yes,

When I put my lift on I did this. Cost me about $200 to have that end changed and the shaft lengthened at a local driveline shop. So I am hoping when I do my SAS that my shaft will be long enough and I won't have to lengthen it again, but we shall see.
 






Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
your trying to eliminate the cv style driv shaft or convert to ubolt style hook up on old jeeps or something?

well yeah, if ya dont, the first time you articulate the front end, bye bye driveshaft, being that the stock axle is fixed to the frame there is no need to have a driveshaft that can pivot more then an inch or 2, thats y they have the CV style setup.
 






Originally posted by lizardtrac
Cory, what about the adaptor for the front driveshaft?? did ya find out anything on that yet??

Haven't had time to call yet.

So basically you are looking for a replacement driveshaft double-cardan style to bolt to the flange of the t-case and whatever you need on the other side?
 






How do you get to a flange on the tcase side of the shaft. I just called a drive shaft place and they told me 80 bucks to lengthen it, so that's not bad. But how do you get to the flange instead of the CV style?

Happy trails!!
 






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Cory, I went with a single u-joint at the t-case end. Works great. The guys at the shaft shop said that was the best route and the double caradin are reserved more for very short shafts and huge angles. Haven't had any problems.

Josh,
the adapter has to be welded on. THe t-casend of the shaft is cut and a yoke is put on, then the new plate for the t-case (same amount of bolts) has a yoke on it and they are connected with a u-joint.

The shop that did mine did a great job and although it may not be the only route to go I trust his word and his work.
 






Were does the plate come from that has the yoke on it for the Tcase?

Robb, i'm assuming that that shaft is for a jeep? Is that yours?

Happy trails!!
 






I WISH!!!!

Naw that is the lengthened Superlift driveshaft that Desertspive uses. It is a nice shaft but $$$$! I was just showing what the double-cardan style with bolted flange looks like.

Robb
 






Yeah i understand the double joints and the flanges and junk, just don't know where you get the flange for your tcase. I want to try to get as much as i can for cory so that it saves me a couple of dollars, and so i can get it back on the road ASAP when i get it back.

Happy trails!!
 






The flange is machined by whoever does your shaft. you could crawl under there and get the diameter, hole pacing and then have a machine shop do you one up quick. I doub't your gonna find one any other way unless you call driveshaft shops (major ones) and see if they already have one made up. Your best bet is to take the truck and shaft to a shop and let them get you set up. You can't just go bolting stuff to a driveshaft that spins if you plan on running on the street, it will vibrate like crazy unless it is balanced. call around. I bet you can even get them to gaurentee it and warrantee any problems.
 






I didn't figure it was bolt on Dave. The told me they couldn't crawl up under a truck because they were a garage so to say. I told him it was going to be on a trailer, and he said then he could probably take a look at it on the trailer;)

So how does the CV style flange come off the tcase?

Happy trails!!
 






sorry to insult you, just a missunderstanding.

it has 6 - 8 bolts on the flange, I believe they are torx bolts but it has been a while.
 






I believe you can get a total custom shaft made for 200 bucks!

ask Jefe he had both front and rear custom shafts made i think he said both were only 500
 






I think I posted that price up there somewhere. I paid a little over $400 for both of mine. Front lengthened and converted and the rear lengthened.

Call around to your local 4x4 and high performance racing shops and see who they recomend. The shaft is not where you want to skimp(not saying you are), busting one can ruin a day real quick.
 



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No problem Dave. I didn't know it just un bolted, i've never looked at it. Does the stock CV flange thing slide over some splines or just bolt right up to something. I could go ahead and get something made up if i knew all the details.

Jeff. I might have new shafts made, but there is no reason, for me anyways, to have new ones made when my tubes are still fine, just needed to be lengthened. 80 bucks sounds pretty good to me. But i'll have to check on the flange.

Happy trails!!
 






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