jshexplo96 (Robbs 95 EB SAS)

[bmxking5]

I'd say about 3.5-3.75" backspacing, but hopefully someone running leaf springs up front can chime in and let you know what will work out best for you.

 

[zainyD]

You might want to look at the pinion angle on your 8.8. It looked to be pretty low. Maybe that's just the camera though.

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

what are the tires flat? cant wait to see it on 37's! nice work

33's.........looks freken great....is it the picture angle or is the front axle slightly off center on the wheel wheels.....this thing is going sweet looking when it is done.

 

[jshexplo96]

no...not the picture...i moved the axle 2 inches foward...but it is adjustable till I weld it all in

 

[RockRanger]

I am running a waggy front with leafs at stock waggy width. With 4" backspacing rims and 35" X terrians my tires rub the springs hard. One of these days I plan on ordering spacers for the front to make teh front have 2.5" of backspacing. I am waiting till I have the money to add hydro assist steering first.

Now for my constructive critisism.

I hope you plan on adding alot of gussets to that front spring hanger. If it was me I would try to get the springs as close to the frame as you can. maybe even try and weld the hangers strait to the frame and take that box out completly. It is going to put alot of leverage on the frameas it is or atleast use a box as wide as the hangers. Also How long are those front shackles? They look pretty long. I am running 5.5" long shackles and yj springs and can pretty much max a 13.5" travel shock on the front end. Might want to try a shorter shackle.

I know some people like a super tall truck and if thats you then more power to you but with that much height when you swap in a Waggy axle you could have drivline u joint issues. It could very well bind the lower ujoint when the suspension is dropped. It will be even more magnified with the shackle in the back. I have 6" of lift with the shackle up front and can still get the front u joint to bind on down travel. Just a bit but it still is at the point of binding. With more lift and a shackle reversal it would be worse.

The steering box mount looks like it fits nice. Have any more pictures of how you did it? A few more plates and gussets I am sure wouldnt hurt. With as much lift as you have getting a drag link to clear the spring is going to be hard. To histeer a 30 is pointless especally if you plan on swapping a 44 in a bit.

You are well on your way to having a nice trail rig. I saw it forsale and if it would have been closer it would be sitting at my house. You got a good deal on it.

 

[jshexplo96]

Thanks rockranger for the help. Yea, I still have alot to do!! the the shackle hanger mounts on the rear of the front spring are gonna be gussetted and then plate over the top, welded and grinded smooth.

For the front I am going to add the same angle iron to the outside of the frame as the inside. Then weld everything together.

The shackles on there now arent really shackles, just some 1/2 with holes. I have ordered stock length wrangler shackles. (should be here monday) Hopeing they will help with full droop and to lower the front some to sit it more even. Will the shorter shackle affect my pinion angle???

I am in the process of getting the bent drag link off Cheif34 d30 for a "temp" steering solution till I get the d44 under there.

I am using 1.5 spacers front and rear. So from what everyone says....I assume 3.5 back spacing should be fine?

 

[RockRanger]

A shorter shacke will effect pinion angle as well as caster. With a rear shackle the shorter the shackle the more the pinion will rotate up and the less caster the front will have. I set my caster and let my pinion be what it was. The only way to truely get it right is to cut and turn the knuckles. 034x4 did it to his truck I just left mine alone.

3.5" back spacing and 1.5" spacers will result ih having a net 1" backspacing rim. It could cause alot of trouble on your unit bearings on the dana 30 as well as cause your scrub radius to get even worse. It wont kill teh truck but will cause more stress on teh front end on the wheel bearings and ball joints. You might have to service them more then normal. Steering will also become harder then it is with more back spacing in the rims. Its all a game of compermise. Cant wait to see teh finished project.

 

[tdavis]

Do understand, that once you go under 3.25" backspacing on most steel rims, they become a reverse shell rim - which you DO NOT WANT.

It's better to order a 3.5" or even a stock back spacing, then use spacers to move the tires out. Of course, moving tires out farther on a the axle changes the scrub, and the bearing load (like RockRanger said above).

 

[jshexplo96]

Do understand, that once you go under 3.25" backspacing on most steel rims, they become a reverse shell rim - which you DO NOT WANT.

It's better to order a 3.5" or even a stock back spacing, then use spacers to move the tires out. Of course, moving tires out farther on a the axle changes the scrub, and the bearing load (like RockRanger said above).

So since I am using spacers, I should go with 4" backspacing?? Or atleast a 3.5?

 

[justin146]

Do understand, that once you go under 3.25" backspacing on most steel rims, they become a reverse shell rim - which you DO NOT WANT.

It's better to order a 3.5" or even a stock back spacing, then use spacers to move the tires out. Of course, moving tires out farther on a the axle changes the scrub, and the bearing load (like RockRanger said above).

Using wheels with the correct offset/backspacing will always be better than using a spacer. Who says a deep dish wheel is a bad thing?

 

[RockRanger]

When you go with a deep offset rim they "flip" it around to get the proper backspacing. What this does is put the designed outer bead on the inside and puts the inner bead on the outside. Means you have to mount tires with the rim upside down. Also means that the outer bead is now weaker and it is easier to loose a bead. If you ever weld on bead locks on flipped rims then you will have a heck of a time trying to get the tires on. FWIW I am running 4" back spacing rims. I like them and plan on adding 1.5" spacers to the front to get the tires off the springs. Plus when the cop gives me a fix it ticket for tires out to far I just remove the spacers and the tires are back under the fenders to get the ticket signed off.

 

[jshexplo96]

yea i ordered the 4" backspacing 15x10 and 1.5 spacers....

 

[jshexplo96]

Does anyone know the rubicon express brake line extensions that would fit right on??? I remember reading it somewhere but cant find it....(i think maybe yomies truck???)

 

[jshexplo96]

ordered the 37x14x15 iroks today

 

[jshexplo96]

Updates!!!

Got the rims and tires on so this week I roll it in the shop to finish the crossmember and spring hangers. I think im gonna take a few pages from section525 playbook and notch the front cross member so that it wraps around the frame. It will be much stronger that way.

I think I finally found a d44 from a wagoneer. Im gonna go look at it tomorrow. See if I can cut a deal.

I still need to find a stock drag link so I can steer it while i roll it.

Pics

 

[RockRanger]

Dang that thing is tall. looking good though.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

I like it a lot

-Drew

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

dang that thing is hudge....maby get rid of the block in the rear?

 

[FROADER]

That's a huuuge *****! Looking tough.

 

[jshexplo96]

Yea, im lowering the front probably about 2". It should sit level then. Im gonna work on the brakes today. Running new lines, bypassing the abs.