Rough idle/loss of power

[OneHotLX]

Hello guys. I'm impressed with the wealth of knowledge on this site as I've been searching the forums I've come across numerous help tips and articles.

I bought this 2000 Ex 4.0 OHV with a check engine light on. The previous owner agreed to have the codes read at a nearby parts store which showed that bank1 sensor 1 was out of range and a misfire (I didn't get the codes at that time). It didn't sound like too big of a deal because the truck ran pretty good except for a bit of a rough idle.

I get the truck home and replace the wires, which looked like a couple sets were combined, and the plugs that had 5 Champion coppers and one Motorcraft platinum in hole #3 . I installed some Autolite coppers and verified the correct firing order.

I also, replaced that o2 sensor on the RH side that was out of range. Looks like someone installed a downstream sensor in place of an upstream.

So I installed the correct Bosch p/n 13117 and low and behold the CL was off. I pulled the battery cables to reset the codes (and check the age of the battery).

The test drive was not that successful unfortunately. It actually ran a bit worse. I took it over to the parts store to again have the codes read. At this point it was idling at ~500 RPM and lacking any grunt.
The codes were as follows:
P1152 Lack of Heated o2 Sensor Bank2, Sensor1
P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire
P0175 Bank 2 system too rich
P0442 Evap Emission system leak
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire

The parts guy suggested Seafoam but I've been skeptical of the benefits of running it through a vacuum line. Plus, it would seem to me that if it's breaking loose a bunch of crap that's going to ruin my nice new RH o2 sensor.

But it seemed to me that it was starving for fuel. I decided to purchase a new fuel filter. I started it up and right away it was running great. I'm thinking this is awesome! Fixed all that bs with eight bucks.

That euphoria was short lived however. About 2 days later the wife ran the tank down to about an 1/8 and it started doing the same thing with the CL on again. Now I'm thinking there must be a bunch of garbage or rust in the tank. I had her stop and have the codes read again. She said it was bank 2 too rich.

I install another fuel filter to see if that will confirm my hunch. Unfortunately, it's immediately running like crap. I tried driving it around a bit to see if it would a throw a code again but no such luck.

So, for those that are still with me in this little debacle, I'm wondering if it has a bad o2 on the LH side because it would seem to me that if the fuel filter didnt fix the issue that would rule out the tank. I hate to toss another 50 bucks in the firepit...I mean Explorer but I'm also wondering if it were an o2 sensor would it have an affect on drivability in open-loop operation?

I'm kind of at a loss.

 

[OneHotLX]

No thoughts on this? I know this issue appears to have been beaten to a pulp but I've done quite a bit of searching here and google but havent been able to come to a definitive answer.

 

[bobflood]

Is O2 sensor code for the one you changed? Bank 2 is driver's side; sensor 1 in before the cat. EVAP code could be a lot of things, all fuel related. Gas cap is most obvious. Misfires can also be fuel related. But, are you SURE you reconnected plug wires correctly? Very easy to screw that up.

If everything else OK, I'm thinking fuel pump. Have you checked (meaning actually measured) your fuel pressure? Usually can get a pressure guage from auto parts store tool loaner program. Bad pumps make strange things happen. U mentioned it acted up again when tank ran low; fuel actually cools pump, so it runs hotter when fuel level low. Good luck.

 

[OneHotLX]

The o2 sensor that was replaced was bank 1 on the passenger side.

I'm confident that the wires are correct because when I did the wires initially I connected them incorrectly. So, I corrected that issue thanks to the diagrams provided by members here. Which was a great help!

I have not checked fuel pressure at the rail yet. That is next on the list though. I will check out the local parts store for a loaner, I didn't even think about that.

I'll share the results after I test. I'm assuming it should be around 80ish psi?

 

[pcam13]

Since you have a 2000, its the return less style fuel system as far as i remember. 65 psi Should be normal

 

[OneHotLX]

Thank you for the info!

I've been side tracked by my brother's crappy Tecumseh lawnmower this week but I plan to get a tester this weekend.

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel pump tester

I purchased one from Harbor Freight Tools for about $20.
Fuel Injection Pump Tester
I had to remove the core from the Schrader valve because the tester adapter doesn't fit exactly.

The DTC of Bank 2 too rich doesn't match a weak fuel pump. The codes for a weak fuel pump are usually too lean. Possible causes for too rich are fuel injectors sticking open or failed intank fuel pressure regulator (uncommon). The O2 sensors measure oxygen content compared to atmospheric so misfires (low power pulses) normally result in lean codes since the oxygen isn't burned. One bank lean and the other bank rich is often the result of the Pre-cat O2 sensor connections being crossed.

 

[rb142]

You are focusing on the fuel [pump] system when the symptoms don't point to that. All of the codes and the symptoms are consistent with a bad left, front O2 sensor. (Especially if someone put the wrong sensor in on the right side, they probably did on the left too.) That would be the first place to check. If the sensor is OK, look for stuck injectors, or maybe a stuck EGR valve, etc. causing that bank to go rich.

 

[OneHotLX]

Well, I finally got a chance to work on the rig again this past Saturday. I had already cleaned the EGR out last week. I pulled off the master cylinder res. and cleaned it out and bled the brakes as the fluid was totally contaminated with copper.

I then moved on to wrestling with the LH o2 sensor. Which, while in a very convenient spot, didn't allow me much leverage to try and break it loose. I even tried unplugging it and seeing if I could slip the 7/8" wrench over the plug. But alas the plug a tad too large.

While I was letting the WD40 soak on the LH o2 sensor I figured I'd go ahead and try the fuel pressure testing kit (Evertough p/n 67091) that I borrowed from O'Reilly's. However, the fitting for the schrader valve was too big.

So, I contacted Advanced Auto (they didn't even have one available) and Autozone which had the same kit as O'Reilly's branded as OEM. I'm not sure what the deal is with that but upon further investigation of the instruction manual it appears these kits only support Ford's with CFI. I wasn't aware that they had different size fittings but I've only owned one CFI vehicle and I was too lazy to look beyond opening the hood on my 86 T-bird.

I did some investigating and called a buddy that said he may have a handheld OBDII tester that could monitor FP. He wasn't far away so I figured it couldn't hurt to try it. So, I gathered everything up to head over that way.

The truck started a tad rough but the idle immediately evened out at around 950 RPM. It ran great during the entire trip of a few miles over to my buddy's place. About halfway over there it dawned on me that I never plugged that LH o2 sensor back in!

Now I'm not sure what temp the system goes into closed loop but I'm pretty sure it was plenty warm by the time I got to my buddy's place. We plugged in the scanner and didn't have any luck with FP but did see a code for "Bank 2 too rich" (I'm pretty sure the CL was not on at that time). On the return trip the truck ran fine that entire time as well with no CL's showing up. This was with that o2 still unplugged.

Now that the exhaust was nice and warm I broke that o2 sensor loose (which was an original Ford sensor) and replaced it with the new Bosch 15664 sensor.

My wife took it out for a test drive with my lil' guy for about maybe 5 minutes or little longer. About halfway through the trip the CL did come back on even though it was running fine.

Hmmm....where do I go now?

 

[OneHotLX]

So the problem has been solved in a way. The truck burned to a crisp and is a total loss. Thanks to those that offered ideas and suggestions in attempting to resolve the issue.

 

[2000StreetRod]

That's terrible!

I hope nobody was hurt. What happened?

 

[OneHotLX]

Not sure. I has all dirty after changing the LH o2 sensor so I had my wife take it for a test drive. It ran fine (other than the CEL coming on) and we noticed smoke coming out from under the hood and LH fender. I couldn't get the hood open and using the fire extinguisher through the wheelwell made no difference. At that point there was smoke entering the interior so I knew it was only a matter of time before it was going to get really bad. I started it up and struggled to find reverse or neutral. Finally got it to go backwards to get it away from our house.

Kind of ironic because it had never been smoked in by the previous two owners.

On another note, do you have any ideas about the fitting in that fuel pressure kit?

 

[2000StreetRod]

What a shame!

I'm glad no one was hurt. Which fuel kit are you asking about? Are you asking about Harbor Freight's fuel injection pump tester?

Is it possible you jammed the Schrader valve open when you tried to use the fuel pressure tester you borrowed and the leaking fuel started a fire when the exhaust manifold got hot?

 

[OneHotLX]

I'm referring to the fuel pressure testing kit (Evertough p/n 67091) that I borrowed from O'Reilly's.

I'm positive that had nothing to do with because the fitting was so big that it just slid right over the schrader valve.

Plus, it looks like the fire started on the left side of the vehicle.

 

[OneHotLX]

Here's what it looks like. Sorry about the size it was the only one I could find on the net.

 

[2000StreetRod]

instructions

That looks identical to the one I found instructions for: Fuel Pressure Kit User's Guide According to the instructions you connect the Ford test port adapter to the Schrader valve and the GM test port adapter to the gauge hose. Then connect the GM test port adapter to the Ford test port adapter.

When you say "left side" is that the driver side? The side is defined from sitting in the vehicle facing forward - not from standing in front of the vehicle facing aft.

 

[OneHotLX]

Yes, the driver's side.

 

[2000StreetRod]

DPFE sensor hoses?

I don't know about your OHV but on my SOHC the DPFE sensor and its associated hoses are located on the driver side. If one of the hoses comes loose or breaks off hot exhaust gas will flow thru the open hose and melt anything in the vicinity.