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Secondary Transmission Filter Installed (Feedback)

Well, I did the autopsy on the tranny filter.

At first look it appeared to be very clean, but after getting in the pleats, I found small ( netalic ) material was trapped there. This is the crud that the pan filter never gets.

Conclusions, I will never have a vehicle w/o a tranny filter again. Money well spent.

Thanks again, Hank, for the idea, Keep em comming.
 



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The 3k miles update on the filter system....

I changed the filter today at 3 k miles, added 1 quart of Mobile 1 AATF and checked for leaks; all is well.

Then an autopsy was performed on the filter. There was absoultly no particulate material trapped there. The material that was circulating in the system was all captured by the first filter. Amazing.

This is a great addition....
 






I installed mine and also added a second stock type tranny cooler. It worked fine for the first couple of days, but now it takes awhile for the fluid to circulate. After I turn off the vehicle all the fluid drains back into the tranny and now it takes about 5 minutes of driving before it will shift out of 1st gear due to low fluid. I have my filter mounted horizontally, does anyone think that this has any effect? I also think that the filter may just be clogged as I did not do a complete fluid change.
 






Strange, no clue. I have not had any adverse effects nor any shifting chages. My filter is also mount horizontal.

If it worked fine at first but not now I would suggest a filter change and drop the pan clean pan and replace screen. If it was th new hardware I would suspect you would have seen the condition right away.

Let us know.

hg
 






Mine was causing shifting problems, so I had to take mine out. Hesitation in shifts into next gear. Especially between 2nd and 3rd. I've put about 8k. I changed the filter at 500 mi, 1500 mi, and then every 3k with my oil change. After pulling it out, my trans shifts better and I get better gas milage. Go figure... of course, at 109k, my tranny could be dying... :(
 






Just a thought for those of you who had problems.

Are you completly sure that you hooked up the in and out lines correctly??

Most filters today have a check valve in them. Hooking it up the wrong way would reduce if not completly block the fluid flow.

I have over 20k on my setup with no problems.

hg
 






I checked this morning and this afternoon when I started the truck it would be overfilled before I started it. After I started it, all the fluid would disappear and it would be almost empty. I changed the filter and repeated the process and it stayed full. I think since I didn't do a complete fluid change and also change the internal filter that it clogged the external filter. I will see tommorow when I leave for work. I hope that fixed it.
 






Well, I couldn't wait and it didn't work. It still wouldn't shift until it warmed up. I decided to try resetting the battery even though it is a pain to reset all my radio presets. This lessened the time that it normally takes to start shifting so hopefully it will re learn its shift points and fix itself. I don't think it is the filter as much as it is the new torque converter that has a lower stall rating than stock. I am hoping that over time it will just work itself out. I am not to worried about it since it lasts for less than 2 minutes of driving before it starts acting right.
 






Here is a thought, again I have not had any problems.

If the tranny is filling up, (overfilled) when cold, it sounds like the filter you are using does NOT have a check valve. Granted the check valve will only help with backflow.

It really sounds like something else is up. It should not take 5 min for all the fluid to circulate/level out.

If I recall correctly you added a second cooler also. I would try bypassing it to make sure there is not any obstructions or kinked hoses. Keep it simple, only add one thing at a time.

Note, the high shift point could be your vacuum (sp) modulator starting to go.

I just re-read your post, if your tranny goes empty when it is running, your are too LOW on fluid. This would cause high shift/or no shift points... Only check your tranny fluid when warm and the engine running. I just checked mine, when not running and cold, and of course it looks a little over filled. Fire it up, let it run and I am dead on the mark.

With the added cooler and filter you could require up to an additional 2 qts of fluid. But again only check when warm, running and in idle.

Keep us posted.

hg


----
I just re-re-read your post, it sounds like you are too low on fluid....

Feel free to contact me if any questions.
 






Well, even resetting the computer didn't work. I will start eliminating things now. I am going to start with the second tranny cooler by bypassing it. I am starting to think that the stock pump in the tranny just doesn't have enough pressure to push the fluid through that much stuff until it heats up and thins out a little. What I really don't understand is it only does it for the first 2 minutes of driving or so and then it is fine.
 






Kevin,

See my posts above, how is your fluid level when warm?

Any fluid loss? (vacuum modulator sign)

This one just does not make sense for it to be a filter or second cooler issue.
 






I think its fluid level also

Originally posted by Diff Whack Daddy
I checked this morning and this afternoon when I started the truck it would be overfilled before I started it. After I started it, all the fluid would disappear and it would be almost empty.

You check the trans fluid when it is HOT and while the engine is running. Sounds like you have a low fluid level. If the fluid is almost empty while running you dont have enough fluid. I wouldnt mess with removing coolers etc, I would check it after its run for 20 min or so, maybe drive 10 or so miles.
 






It doesn't even take that long for the tranny to start shifting and once it does the fluid level is normal. I am starting to think that I am having a sticking valve in the control valve body.
 






Well I finally found the problem. Of course it was in the last place I looked but had I folled the damn tranny manual it would have been the first. Oh well, you live you learn.

The problem: Govenor valve sticking
Location: In the tail shaft housing (between the transfer case and tranny)
Solution: Replace it with known good govenor valve from spare tranny.
 






Well, I just ordered the PRM-10677 kit from Summit. I'll have the '97 this weekend, and I'm going to take it to my local transmission shop just to have them give the tranny a thorough inspection and service, and I figured I'd let them go ahead and install the aux. filter kit as well.

I went ahead and ordered the kit with the temp. gauge cause I'm heading to South Carolina on a fishing trip (towing a boat) at the end of the month and I'm wanting to make sure my transmission doesn't overheat.

Thanks Hank for the great idea.

Randy
 






Does anyone know the size of the temperature sending unit fitting on these kits. For some reason I think 3/8.
 






A pic at last.....
 

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Pressure Drop?

Any concerns about additional pressure drop the new filter adds to the 'circuit'?
 






Re: Pressure Drop?

Originally posted by Jon_Herr
Any concerns about additional pressure drop the new filter adds to the 'circuit'?

Any "pressure drop" would be insignificient, I think.

I have had absoultly no difficulities.
 



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Pressure Drop source

Reason for the question:

I've had two transmissions rebuilt, one in a '94 ranger w/ 125k + miles and one in a '93 explorer with 150k+ miles.

In both cases the tranny shops (different ones) stated that low pressure at highway speed is the biggest killer of these 4 speed overdrive transmissions.

By the time the fluid reaches the rear of the tranny some of the pressure is gone. That slips the rearmost clutches (slightly) and wears the rear-most bushing.

Since the fluid exits the tranny after that to be cooled (your new filter) it's probably not a big deal.

After the filter and the cooler the fluid goes back to the pump to be re-circulated.

Anyway, I just wondered if you'd considered it or measured it. No big deal.

I wonder if you would benefit from a heatsink on the filter - something with fins to take even more heat away from the fluid?

It would be interesting to see what the operating temperature of the fluid is under load. Measuring it at idle is flawed - the heat of the fluid will be very close to the heat of the radiator, 190 degrees.

Jon
 






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