slipping tranny 1997 ford explorer

[JJScorpio]

My explorer has been gradually getting worse on the shifting. It is an automatic and has 125, 000 miles. It has a 4.0 with a single overhead cam. I want to fix it because the body and motor are still in great shape. Sometimes it will not shift out of low until 3000 RPM's and other times I have to back off the gas when it shifts into drive or it will just rev. I took it to a shop but they wanted 250 to diagnose so a friend told me of this site. A code has now come up that says P1762 which is a converter/shift solonoid problem. One shop says it is most likely a solonoid problem but another said most likely a rebuild. I dont mind spending the money to fix it, I just want to be sure of what it could be without spending 250 to start. Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem and how I would diagnose or what to look for. I am not a great mechanic but I am not afraid to get dirty, lol. I am just looking for some suggestions.......Thank you for replies and thanks for letting me join.......

 

[Glacier991]

Your code is for a failed Overdrive band. in the 5R55E that band is applied to give you 2nd gear and 5th gear, so without it you are skipping 2nd gear.

I cannot make an easy diagnosis. I'd drop the pan and see if you have any metal or band parts. It could be a failed band. It is "possible" that the servo has failed, but that's a long shot. the Shift solenoid "C" is used in those two gears ONLY, so I'd investigate/test and maybe replace that..... I'll do some further research.

 

[JJScorpio]

Thx for the reply Glacier. I am getting the slip from the shift before it settles into drive. There are times that it will go into overdrive on, on its own at 75 miles per hour. I feel more peace of mind from that reply then I did from the shops I talked to. I swear they take a sales coarse. I couldnt get anyone to even give me the price of a rebuild if it needs it. Its like they are trying to feel you out and see what they can get you to pay.I was told the kit is a couple hundred so I would assume that it would be 1500.00 or so. I have only been able to find one used one and that is going to be 850.00. AAmco wants the 250 to diagnose but they told me it could be applied to whatever work they had to do. I take it it is a one year only tranny? I live in a rural area with only 3 shops within a 100 mile radius. I have driven it 5000 miles and I have the feeling it doesnt have a lot of time, lol. If it is what you think it is am I looking at a rebuild?...Any help is appreciated

 

[Glacier991]

If you want to try a simple, "replace and hope" approach (I do not normally recommend that but in some cases it is cheaper than having a shop even diagnose it) I can send you a SSC shift solenoid and you can replace that and see if that is what is was. Probably cost you under $60 US including shipping. Can be done simply by removing the pan.

 

[JJScorpio]

That doesnt sound like a bad idea Glacier. I have tuesday off and if the weather holds off I can drop the pan and look for hunks of bands first to be sure. What is wierd with this is all the different things it does but yet it doesnt just crap out. One other thing that it has done is to shift itself down at times when driving 75. Insted of the normal 2400 RPM's it will run 3000. It also lags going into reverse and drive if that helps.....Would you also try a filter and fluid change first? I live in Northern NY and have been hoping to hit a deer, lol, but no luck. I bought this one at a public auction a year and a half ago for 2900.00 and it is still real clean and burns no oil between changes so it is worth fixing

 

[Glacier991]

Sorry about the US dollars thing. I am juggling about 4 fixes between here and the net and was thinking you are in England.

ps. Yes do the fluid change and filter change first. Add a drain plug, you may be back a few times DIY, but it will be worth it.

 

[JJScorpio]

I am dropping my tranny pan to look for metal and a shop told me that it would come out without removing anything else. I just took out all the bolts and took my tranny fluid bath lol, and it will not clear the cat converter on the exhaust. Is there something I am missing here?

 

[JJScorpio]

I changed the fluid and filter and there is no difference. There were no filings or metal in the pan so I am back to sq one again. I have found a shop that says they can diagnose it for me for 50 dollars. I have heard tons of horror stories of tranny shops in my area but I am at my wits end. Is it safe to say that I should let them diagnose it and then come back here and get second opinions on what they have said? I dont even know you guys but I trust what you folks have told me more then they have lol..

 

[Glacier991]

Ok next step check/replace SSC solenoid. (See why I suggested a drain plug?)

 

[Glacier991]

We're not done here by a long shot.

 

[JJScorpio]

I really like your persistence Glacier, lol. I am going to have to get a manual for this task. I went to Autozone and they were out of plugs or I would have gotten one. I took an awful bath the first time and I wish to god I would have. I talked to a friend who has an Uncle who works at Amco who said if I bring it in Sat morning that he can put it on the diagnostic machine and put in the plug for fifty dollars. Its worth the fifty bucks not to take the bath again even if they cant diagnose it. I am hoping you are right about the solonoid. You mentioned something about getting one from you or through here? I would just as soon fix it myself and save the money for groceries, lol. Do you think it is worth the fifty bucks to have that done?

 

[BrooklynBay]

In the past, I've not had good experiences with those fit all drain plug kits that they sell in the auto parts stores. If you want one that drains faster (like the one on the engine's oil pan), I would suggest drilling a 1/2" hole, buy a 1/2" X 20 magnetic drain plug, and a 1/2" X 20 nut. Clean the inside of the pan, use sand paper on the nut, and the surface of the pan, insert the bolt through the hole, connect it to the nut, then use a blow torch to solder the nut to the pan with solder, and paste (flux). Let it cool down, unscrew the magnetic drain plug, insert the gasket, and then tighten it. You now have a plug on the bottom of your pan that is the same quality as if it came from Ford that way.

 

[Glacier991]

Pay $50, and get another opinion and a plug.... hmmm... well the plug that way would be expensive.... but might be interesting to hear their opinion. I have a built in prejudice in that so many shops diagnose EVERYTHING as a rebuild.... but at the same time understand why they do not want to be fooling around HOPING to find an easier fix at current shop rates.

I cannot fairly advise you on this. Your call. I CAN send you a shift solenoid to try in place of your SSC.

 

[JJScorpio]

You are exactly right on the opinions of these shops. If it is junk so be it but they say that without even looking at it. I talked to another shop I found today and I didnt say three sentemces and the guy laughed, cut me off, called it junk and started talking buying a factory rebuild. It really kind of pisses you off. I bet if I would have given him the time he would have said the exchange included him keeping my old one, lol. I will be in touch with you later but for the fifty I think I will go through the amusement of getting it diagnosed by the so called experts at Aamco. They know they got us by the balls because without sites like this we are totally clueless. Im going to go there with an open mind but I must say that I think they take a coarse on how to read someone on how much they will pay and there diagnosis is guided by that, lol....God I hate being so cynical............lol........

 

[JJScorpio]

I went and got the tranny diagnosed this morning and it came up with another code. This time it added P0733. On the way there the tranny seemed like it was slipping in overdrive and was shifting hard from first into second. I also checked the fluid and it smells burnt allready. Of coarse AAmco told me it needs a rebuild and minimum cost will be 1200 to 1400 dollars. It seems to be worse since I changed the fluid. Also I was wondering if anyone knows how to explain how to check the band tightness by using the external band adjustments on this tranny. Any comments will be appreciated...........

 

[Glacier991]

P0733 is a code for no 3rd gear. The possibles are solenoid failure(s) or internal transmission problems. You are definitely slipping and going to burn up the transmission at this rate. Let's go back up to where I suggested you look at the EPC .. it's time to either majorly involve getting in there and getting the VB to do its job, or get it rebuilt.

I cannot promise that replacing the EPC and checking the solenoids with an ohmeter is going to fix your problem, but it is not wasted effort because you'll have your work with you in the rebuild should it need it. If it fixes it great, if not, well your erebuild will be that much better.

To continue to drive it in the present condition will only guarantee the need for a rebuild. So, Replacement of the EPC, solenoid check and maybe the VB rebuild Diary are my final and best answer. (the EPC is a major suspect in my eyes, but hey, I've been wrong before - however since they DO wear out, what's the harm?) Cost? $112 plus shipping from FPN. That is OEM. Your SSC could, as noted above, also be a problem.

You seem to be resistant to check or change any solenoids? Reading back up this thread that has been my suggestion as to your most probable fix almost from the get go.

 

[JJScorpio]

Glacier, is the EPC the same as the SSC Solonoid. I dont see anything prior about an EPC. I have tommorrow off and I called the ford garage to get a solonoid but they told me I needed to know which one. He also didnt know what I meant by the ssc solonoid.

 

[Glacier991]

If you read the 5R55E VB rebuild diary it explains each of the 6 solenoids. There are 4 shift solenoids. Each identical in appearance and function, but each plugged into a different circuit. So tell him you want a "shift solenoid". The EPC is the electronic pressure control solenoid. If is WAY different than a shift solenoid, and pricier. The number for the EPC is XL2Z-7G83-AA (and they may have a newer one marked AB, or something entirely upgraded, I dunno, but that one works). Someone posted a nice diagram on here showing the location of the 4 shift solenoids (marked A,B,C and D, or shift solenoid A (SSA) shift solenoid B (SSB) etc. I'll see if I can find you a link.

You are right I didn't mention the EPC earlier, as you seemed to have a discrete problem easily explained by SSC. Now you show up with another gear, and NOW I am adding EPC to the list. I am on the verge of recommending to ANYONE with this transmission to replace the EPC precautionarily starting at about 75,000 miles whether you have a problem or not - especially if you have the pan off for any reason. The failure rate on them is high. (and they work hard).

Also, check your bracket that holds the solenoids in place. It could be at fault here too.

 

[Glacier991]

That illustration is in post #144 in the 5R55E VB Rebuild Diary.

 

[JJScorpio]

Thx for the info glacier. I will be better off ordering from the place you gave me as our local ford garage has them for 159.00 plus tax. All I have now for problems is the slip going into second gear. I went to the ford garage and found out the person that rebuilds their trannys is a guy I went to high school with 25 yrs ago. He told me to unhook the neg terminal and it took care of the overdrive problem. He said when certain codes register it puts the tranny into disabled or limp mode and when I did this I got overdrive back. Have you heard of this before? It really kinds pisses you off when you think about it. He also briefly explained to me how to adjust the bands externally but I dont think I better try that yet, lol. I think I will do what you suggested and change shift solonoid 2 first and see what happens. Im going to start reading your diary now.............