sn0border88's SAS Thread

[bmxking5]

Bling. Looks good.

 

[sn0border88]

im totally stumped on this steering. Ive found tons of hysteer conversions on coil sprung EB axles, but none on leaf sprung. If I go with a heimed crossover, but using the stock knuckles... does anyone see a problem (other than the fact that it may hit the leaf spring)? Stonecrusher products, which came reccommended by a friend, sells a heim xover kit for 270 to you door, which includes the 1 1/4 DOM tubing, all rodends, jamnuts and bolts. Also includes 2 extra rod ends. All I would need to do then is get the pitman and knuckles reamed. Im looking at another 300 ish to get the flattop knuckles, have them machined, tapped, and buy the arms, so im thinking I may be able to do without that.

 

[james t]

You're going to have to get the front under the leaves to check your clearances.

 

[sn0border88]

so I thought, im not worried about clearing the tierod under the leaves, if its close I can always run it under instead of over. Im more worried about the drag link hitting the top of the pack or maybe when its under compression.

 

[034x4]

My leafs on the front are mounted directly on the frame rail, they are not dropped down like alot of leaf-sprung SAS. I have full high steer with blue-torch high steer arms and PMP knuckles. 1.5 .250 wall tie-rod and drag-link with 5/8 heims. I had to run 11-12* (can't remember which) of caster to clear the leafs by about 1/2". If the front of the spring was mounted about 4" below the frame or however low it needs to be for the leaf to be horizontal you could probably get away with the stock 4-6* of caster and still clear the leafs.

 

[sn0border88]

Again, i want to do a modified hysteer with just the drag link attached to the hysteer arm. Then it runs the tierod under the leaf pack from the regular steering knuckles.

 

[TheRookie]

Again, i want to do a modified hysteer with just the drag link attached to the hysteer arm. Then it runs the tierod under the leaf pack from the regular steering knuckles.

Whats the benifit of this versus a full hysteer setup?

 

[zainyD]

Exactly, just do hi-steer and be done with it. Easy to do with a set of Chevy flat tops and hi-steer arms from any of the reputable manufacturers.

 

[sn0border88]

methinks that after looking at many eb steering setups the tierod is high enough out of harms way to not warrant a hi-steer, and it saves me the extra hundred for a drivers side arm, plus the machining needed. It is also nice because if I do run into a problem sometime, or feel like it I can just buy the other arm and run a full histeer.

Zainy, are those flattops machined and tapped already for arms or does the pass side need to be mach. and tapped yet.

 

[034x4]

Thats called crossover steering.

Anything that the front diff can come in contact with, the tie-rod can too. Thats why I went ahead and run high steer. If you buy the high steer arms, theres no reason not to.

 

[sn0border88]

if i buy them both, I will. If for now I can only afford to run one highsteer arm, that will work fine right?

 

[james t]

If you can run the tie rod flipped over without hitting the springs, then it will be out of harms way doing it the way you say you want to do it. If you have to run it under (the way it is stock) then its not going to last long.

 

[sn0border88]

I found a set of histeer arms on ebay for 100 shipped. Coldrolled steel CNC machined, 1" thick, already drilled and reamed. Too good to pass, looks like im going full histeer. Or ill do the swap with a stock bronco steering and hi-steer before crozet, if it looks like I can get it done in time.

 

[sn0border88]

update, I ordered d35 4.56's today so this is going to be on hold for a long time... untill I get another daily driver. Anyone want a d44?

 

[bmxking5]

PM 95offroadx. He was just saying on AIM that he was thinking about getting one soon. Isn't he in PA too?

 

[sn0border88]

Update:

Getting a DD this summer so I can resume plans on this beast.

Going to try and use a d30 to mock up the front suspension, and either ill keep it in and go full cromos or go to a d44 later in the summer once I get the money for the parts.

Only reason I want to use a d30 for starters is because we have so many at the shop we threw some out today.

 

[TheRookie]

Throw the rest out

seriously though. I have a d44 and d 60 both with 4.88's on the way here this weekend. detroit in the 60. If you want we can work something out for them.

 

[sn0border88]

Id love to, but im flat broke now and I gotta scrape it all together to make the downpayment. I only wheel hard a few times a year, those would be total overkill for me anyways.

 

[sn0border88]

I just got an 86 Bronco for free, so im debating keeping it with its perfect running inline 6 and manualtrans/case or swapping over the 9" to the X.

I may also be getting a big bearing 9" for next to nothing, so either way its looking like a 9" is in my future. Ill prolly end up going full width with a 44 front on leaves.

 

[sn0border88]

Ive decided to go full width with a 44/9" because im getting a stang' and wont need the X as a DD. Fullwidth wont pass pa inspection so im dropping it from insurance and using it as a guilt free beater.

Plus, I want to keep it low and wide so im going to use softer leaves with the fullwidth combo. I know a guy who used YJ springs with a leaf removed and they flexed very well. He maxed out a 30deg ramp with the stock yj wheelbase and springover. He had to stop because his back tire came onto the ramp as well.