sn0border88's SAS Thread

[TheRookie]

There are ways to ramp without the back tire hitting,
He ramped 1000 when the back tire hit. that is pretty good but not amazing. Sounds like he coulda gone further if he came at it right though. Anyway you cant go using a spring setup from a lighter vehicle and expect it to work well for you.

 

[sn0border88]

MMM, I kinda overlooked the weight thing... I still have waggy springs sitting in my garage.

 

[RockRanger]

stock yjs are way to soft. I added a leaf from the ranger pack to my Yj pack and it is probably still a bit on the soft side.

 

[sn0border88]

keep in mind I am shooting for the soft side, this will not see any on road driving.

 

[TheRookie]

Waggy 7 leaf pack maybe with a leaf removed.

 

[sn0border88]

On second thought, after a (possible) screamin deal from a friend I may be going with a waggy front/ full width 9" or 8.8 rear.

4.88's with a waggy leaf sprung with maybe a leaf removed so it dosent look stupid on 33's untill I get some 36/37" Bias Iroks or Boggers. Although I havent ruled out the possibility of running some 2" blocks and trying to stuff 40" michlin XL's in there. That route would acually be cheaper, but I would go to 5.13's and cromo's. Or run stock shafts till I break one (first trip or two) and then go cromo.

Swapping the outers to ford 5 on 5.5 to match whatever rear I get. With NO ADAPTERS

*Stolen from Mr.N's http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

Option 1: Use a mix of Chevy/FSJ and Ford parts. You'll need a Chevy or Full Size Jeep Dana 44 flat top knuckles, spindle, caliper mount plate and outer axle shaft from a 73-76, see chart for exact years and BOM. To convert these to the Ford 5 on 5.5” (also the same bolt pattern as a Jeep CJ, Scout II and many other vehicles) you’ll need a 1976-1984 or 1987-1995 Ford hub, rotor and bearing. My suggestion is use 76-79 parts, but you can use an 80’s Ford IFS Dana 44 (minus 1986 and some 85 as they had a unique style.) Pull the hub with the bearings, rotor and lock-out. Any standard Dana 44 ½ ton or Chevy ½ ton 10 bolt axle lock outs should work, and spare are always good.


Option 2: Use only Ford parts. One catch, you'll need a 1/2 Super-Cab knuckle, see above General misconceptions table for reason. If you have a nice Ford 1/2 ton axle with new calipers and rotor I suggest just find in a knuckle from a 1/2 Super-Cab, as that is the only part you'll need. (Note to self, check spindle part numbers in Dana book to confirm this) Or you can just grab the entire Knuckles Out from a 1/2 Super-Cab and bolt it up to your inner knuckle.

BTW I have no plans to go hysteer at this point, the Skunk dosent so why should I?

 

[james t]

The 40" Michelins will blow everything out of your front end. They are heavier than 44" boggers. One buy itself weighs more than a 39.5 Irok in a steel beadlock. When they are laying on the ground its like trying to pick up a downed motorcycle. Not trying to rain on your parade.

 

[Spas]

BTW I have no plans to go hysteer at this point, the Skunk dosent so why should I?

Yes, but you've never driven her and had to hang on for dear life because of the horrific bumpsteer Just do what I think I'm gonna do: throw the damn thing together and upgrade as you go along!

 

[sn0border88]

you dont know the bumpsteer/poor alignment ive driven with every day for almost a year, im used to it.

it wont be a DD anyways, maybe see occasional street driving if I can keep it legal.

James T, thanks for stomping out a childish dream of mine I still want to try and fit something bigger than a 37 in there, I just said XL's because they are cheap. 40" boggers are too much, maybe some 42" bias IROKS.

hmm, dosent 034x4 have some for sale?

 

[TheRookie]

Most of the skunks bumpsteer is eliminated as of late. She still handles a little "interesting" But its far better.

You wont fit 40's with just waggy leafs and your body lift. Maybe 38's but the front end becomes so flexy you will have to put in bumpstops.

 

[sn0border88]

With 40's i was thinkin of maybe a 1 or 2" block. But im kinda forgetting that idea, caus BOD already has the 4.88's plus 40's are almost certain d44 death, I dont feel like going to cromos. 38" IROKS sound good to me, I dont think boggers will do well enough on the rocks.

 

[FROADER]

I'd like to see a straight axle under that truck with any size tires...

 

[sn0border88]

you may see it with some 33's first. Think you can deal with that?

 

[TheRookie]

33's would be wacky

for 38's its should work with your body lift. You can place the front spring hangers a little different upfront for a little more height. dont even considder blocks in the front.
That being said your truck is going to flop EASY with this much height. I would strongly considder 36's and losing the body lift.

 

[sn0border88]

Ok, I want a 37" tire, give or take either way. 7leaf waggys with lots of fender hacking going on and no BL. It has to go, check your PM's

 

[sn0border88]

Ok, I wanted to go with the waggy axle, but since I got a BB 9" from a f-100 for free, it would be dumb to get the waggy front and have to change the BP. Im going to the junkyard saturday to browse around for some fronts outta a fullsize 1/2ton or light duty 3/4 ton ford. Still trying to settle on 4.88's or 5.13's. Since I want atleast a 36 maybe up to a 38 im thinkin I should go with 5.13's but I will make that decision based on the final ride height. For tires im still really lookin at either a 37x14.00x15 IROK Bias or a 37x13.00x15 Bogger. Almost settled on a full spool rear, lockrite front. Ill keep stock shafts and stuff untill I break em, then ill convert to d60 outers. Warn premiums to keep em turning and the new 760x u-joints on the stock shafts. procomp cheapo shocks, unless i find something cheaper.

Or, I coudl talk my uncle into selling me his 77 f250 highboy custom with the 351W in it and shorten the frame, regear and call it a day.

 

[21robbie21]

sounds like a plan are all 9" the same width? bc if so with that and those wide tires this thing will be overalll verrrrrry wide

 

[TheRookie]

If you want 36's or bigger 5.13's would be the only option.

 

[sn0border88]

I said before I want to keep it wide and low, but not all 9" are the same. There is the fullwidth 9", then the 9" in the older LTD's, t-birds, ect which I think were a little skinnier. Then there was the EB 9" which i think was the shortest. Im just going to run junkyard rims at first then onces its all together I can remeasure and get rims with the appropriate amount of backspacing.

 

[sn0border88]

Just got back from the junkyard, there were no ford d44 there, so I guess im still lookin. I did however pickup 3 almost new warn hubs for the d35. 1 off a late 90's ranger and 2 off a 92 splorer. I got all 3 for 19 bucks.

Im in the process of getting f250 shock towers from fastpartsnetwork.com and have put in a bid on ebay for these trick 7" anti wrap perches for the d44.
http://ttsfabworks.home.mchsi.com/perch.htm

The thing I like about them is the strength, and also they have 3 locator pin holes that allow you to move the axle forewards or backwards without any other modification.

Also in the front im planning on installing revolver shackles, so combined with the raised shock towers this should be one flexy beast.

Ive got a BB 9" from a 76 F-100 Explorer, I jsut need to take delivery one it. Not sure how much its gonna cost me yet, hopefully only 50 bucks. Im curious, to do a disk conversion on the 9" if I use the weld on caliper mounts, all I will need yet is the caliper andbacking plate/dust shield and im good to go right? (Including rotor and pads of course, and the proportioning valve)