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Soul Eater 5.0L Swap log

Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
120
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52
City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
Those spark plugs look pretty rough! How many miles were on this donor? Lots of deposits, something we should not see in a smooth running 5.0
Well that's 1/2 the reason im posting photos :p. I don't have a ton of experience and im not always right.

Fun story about the milage. The guy I bought it from said it is at 130k and they swapped the gauges because some of them broke. The dash says 230k, but the odometer stopped working. So I really have no idea.
 
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410Fortune

Truck Season!!
Staff member
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City, State
NORTH IDAHO, 7B
Year, Model & Trim Level
B2 "Slightly" Modified
Callsign
FOURTEN
well those are autolite plugs, not the factory units, and they look like they have some miles on them, so...........
That engine looks more like a 230K mile unit then a 130K mile unit, but I am sure you figured that out already!

The intake bolts snapping off is also a good indication its over the 130 mark

from what I can see everything else appears to be bone stock. These 5.0 are tough sons a bitches
Would love to see under the lower intake manifold and inside the oil pan
You can get a good look at your engine with those two things removed.
Whatever you do please do not re install those exhaust manifolds! The old 96-97 style welded manifolds suck so badly its pathetic.
Dorman makes a decent set of cast manifolds for around $100 that are actually pretty good.
 
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Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
120
Reaction score
52
City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
Back in town now. Got a bit done on the truck this evening.

First off, here is a stack of photos from the rockers, valley, crank, and pan. Overall I don't think it looks too bad, but let me know what you see.
PXL_20211026_230123300.jpg
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PXL_20211026_230134840.jpg
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PXL_20211102_215050554.jpg

PXL_20211103_000115399.jpg

PXL_20211026_230035081.jpg

PXL_20211026_230233821.jpg

PXL_20211026_230231651.jpg


Before I left out of town I got the truck out of my parents driveway and took it to recycling. Had to drain the fluids, but about all that was left was gas. Found that if you just take the fuel pump connector and attach the 2 thickest wires to a battery you can use the pump to drain it all out quit easily.

PXL_20211026_211116700.jpg


I had a friend of a friend convince me to get the bolts out myself. One of the lower intake bolts came out super well and clean, but when I was drilling out the next one I broke a cobalt drill bit off in the bolt. So that was fun to deal with. Got to the point where I will need a repair kit on that, but there is plenty of metal left for that. So that's good.

PXL_20211102_230430612.jpg


Next up. The replacement bushing for the transmission showed up. This time instead of trying to install it with a block of wood and a hammer I took it to a friends place and used a press. Put the bushing on the center support, put a solid chunk of metal on top, then pressed it into place. Worked super well! Hope to get the transmission back together by the end of this weekend.

PXL_20211103_014851841.jpg

PXL_20211103_015058948.jpg


Pressed it down slowly by hand instead of using the pneumatic high pressure part and it just slid right in.
 
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Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
120
Reaction score
52
City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
Bit of progress made. I have the lower intake, valve covers, oil pan, and thermostat housing, injectors and rail with new rings, new pressure regulator back on. I've been working on getting all the rubber hoses sourced and replaced, and i've started to get the wiring harness back on.

Im finding that most of the hoses are easy to replace, but it seems the lower coolant hose is hard to find if you don't have the oil cooler (and I don't). I might pull an oil cooler out of a junkyard car, would be nice to have anyway. Otherwise I guess i'll just use the old hose. Nothing wrong with it, I just want to get new parts on.

I did find that there are some issues with the wiring harness. No cuts or nicks, but the insulation on the wires is pulled back a bit on a few connectors. Ill need to go over all the connectors at some point.

PXL_20211112_025531910.jpg


Im a touch held up on the transmission right now. Everything that goes inside is put together and ready to go, but the planet gear assembly that I ordered ended up being for the wrong transmission. I have a new one on order and it should be here soon.

One final note. I couldn't find the oil filter adapter o-ring anywhere, so I took a drive over to the dealership, and while they did not have any, they were able to give me the part number, 87147-S91, and while it is not made any longer, it is still fairly available as it was apparently used in a LOT of diesel engines. So I was able to grab it off ebay for about $8. A lot for an o-ring, but I know its the right one.
 
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CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
Elite Explorer
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City, State
Knoxville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Limited AWD
Good progress there, it is slow and tedious sometimes.

The lower hose should be available in local stores, the long one is more common than the two shorts ones for the oil cooler.

For the wiring, be sure no bare wires are contacting any metal or each other. I'd use some Ultra Black RTV for repairing that pictured connector and wires, RTV will hold very well in the harsh environment. If the wires are unharmed and just need protection, the RTV will work well for that.
 
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Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
120
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52
City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
Well the weather is a bit cold, but ive finally got the last part of the transmission. I want to get some work done on that today.

Planning ahead for reasembally, I need new nuts for the torque converter. Thought it might come with some, but I don't believe it did. Seems like it uses 3/4-24 flange nuts. Beyond getting grade 8 nuts, is there anything special about them? Don't see any reason to get sepal torque converter nuts unless there is actually something special about them.

In other news, im moving! Woo. Ive been working on the engine at my folks place so I don't need to move any of that, but if I don't get this wrapped soon I won't have much time to work on it. Im not moving far, so come spring I will still be ready to get it swapped over, no problems there.
 
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CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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City, State
Knoxville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Limited AWD
Try to use the Ford torque converter nuts, or buy new ones. Those are the best, stronger and they have built in locking ridges in the large flat surface of them.
 
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Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
120
Reaction score
52
City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
--Ment to post this Thursday, forgot to hit submit. Woops---

So I did git a fair bit done today. I stopped by Home Depot and got a propane heater

PXL_20211118_201526170.MP.jpg


That did a surprisingly good job at keeping me warm.


I got a lot done on the transmission after that. Only have one photo of the test fit outside of the case.

PXL_20211118_215726333.jpg


After that I got all of that into the case and have it closed up. I also got just about everything other than the valve body in. Should be able to finish it off this weekend.
 
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Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
120
Reaction score
52
City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
Well its been a minute, but things are moving, albeit a bit slow. Tried to swap the fuel pressure reg on my existing SOHC and ended up with a broken fuel rail I had to take care of.

Engine is about done. All I need to do is pull it off the stand and replace the rear main seal. Then drop it on a skid and take it to storage for the winter.

Transmission internals are closed up, valve body still needs cleaned up. It's a /bit/ tight, so i'm probably going to pop it back open and double check everything before I call it done. Make sure all the bearings are in the right way, etc. It's hard to turn by hand, but if I drop the TC on I can spin it easy and its smoothe. It's probably just from the fluid and assembly lube, but don't want to need to pull it apart once it's in the truck.

Hopefully I can wrap the trans this weekend, but it's anybody's guess.

From there i'll probably just pack it in for the winter. Don't have an inside space to strip the truck down with and it's already trying to snow up here.
 
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