injector replacement
I haven't seen a sticky for this one, so here goes.
so gather the tools you will need ,torx bits, munkey knuckle, various 1/4 drive sockets, socket wrench, screwdriver, "mine is special, I bent it right at the tip on purpose, usefull for many things" rags, catch "for the gasoline rail drip", new injectors, windex, new o rings, wire brush, antisieze, 10 mil deep well "important" Now your install may differ slightly from year make and model, mine is an 98' xlt 4-door 2wd 4.0 SOHC, power everything. I removed the battery, and airbox as well as the entire intake manifold for more room and ease of work. You also should remove the throttle body, but it is not necessary as the whole intake is coming off. remove the throttle cables and disconnect all vacuum lines and electrical connectors connected to your central wiring harness. you may mark them and take plenty of pictures as needed but I like to stu,ble about with these things, makes it more fun and I learn more doing it this way. You may remove the coilpack, but I didn't. Also of note, removing the PCM on mine relieved some room for removing stubborn intake and fuel rail bolts, st remove the PCM cable and disconnect it from the firewall and shove it aside. Remove all eight intake bolts with the torx bit, as well as any stray connections like the vacuum assy. on the right side of the intake "the lines should be disconnected, and all elec. connectors should also be disconnected" disconnect and move the throttle cables. Remove the upper intake, then remove the lower intake bolts, also a torx in my case. Now you should be able to move the wiring harness somewhat, disconnect the injectors "initially this seemed hard, however, I simply removed one side then pulled on the connector and it came free on it's own, took a little umph" move the wiring harness out of the way, the plastic broke reinforcing the harness but I am not too woried as the wires are insulated anyway. I actually forgot a step before moving the wiring harness, you need to disconnect the large square connector that runs to the drivers side on my sploder, has a 10mil bolt that runs through it. After moving the wiring harness, rock one side of the fuel rail back and forth to loosen the connection a little. get your catch and drain the remaining pressure from the rail and set down some rags to prevent spillage. push a pin or something small into the hole on the fuel rail that looks like a tire fill hole and catch the gasoline. finish rocking the injector rails until they come free, this may take a little or great effort, in my case it was the latter, and my injectors stayed behind. Remove any injectors left behind and move the fuel rail, take care not to twist the injectors in or out, this wil cause the o-ring to bind and it would be troublesome to try to remove it before installing the new injectors, a dental tool would work well for this purpose if that hapens. Now use the windex on the new seals to ease them into the injector holes, after cleaning of course, then reverse deinstallation. Before attempting to start, turn your key like you will start it bu don't, wait a couple seconds and repeat, do this five or so times, then bleed the air from the tire air coupler on the fuel rail with the catch, continue until there is no air left, then start her up. I promise pictures coming soon.
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