swapping 1998 V8/4R70W/4406 into 1999 SOHC 2wd | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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swapping 1998 V8/4R70W/4406 into 1999 SOHC 2wd

ahuggins6

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
194
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City, State
New Boston, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 explorer 4.0 auto
What problems will I run into when I put this 1998 V8/4r70w into the 1999 using all 98 harnesses from firewall connectors forward? i've got a returnless fuel rail coming to make that work with the existing stuff in the car. Are there any differences in pinouts at the three firewall connections on the driver's side?

I've read that I'll have to deal with PATS via reprogramming (thanks FORScan!) or swapping PATS modules--actually I don't have a single PATS key for the 98, so... But it would seem that the PATS module only sends a signal to the PCM that "all is good and it's ok to run the engine" and therefore the PCM change won't sense difference key stuff. Am I wrong??
 



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PATS can't be switched off with FORScan. Look up pontisteve on Ebay to USPS him the PCM to switch off the PATS. ~ $120-. @410Fortune Jamie and a bunch of other guys here can give you a quick rundown of the other specifics.
 






I can reprogram the PATS if I HAVE to with FORScan. I just did it Friday morning in the 98 I intended to put this engine into. But it needs a lot of body work to be streetable. So I'll swap the 98 powertrain into my 99 with a blown headgasket and start work on the 98.
 






The pcm and the pats module must match the key, so they all swap over with the 5.0 engine

Or you can turn it off or have it tuned out of the pcm

Your 5.0 must be an early 98 to still have return style fuel rail. You will need the fuel rail and white injectors you cannot run the orange injectors with the returnless fuel

There are several
Minor wiring changes between the v6 and the v8 trucks yes, the easiest way to make the changeover is to do some simple wiring at the c115 42’pin square plug. Changes are
Mostly to the alternator/ charging harness and the way the ac components are wired.
There are other things to consider as well, are you keeping the awd t case or are these rwd trucks?

I do lots of 5.0 conversions like 2 a month these days so most of this is fresh in my head
 






My plan is to go 4wd. Last week at the junkyard, I pulled a manual 4406 with an 01 modular transmission with a busted bell. I intend to swap the internals to the 2wd transmission that came behind this 98 engine, most likely keeping the 98 VB. I've got a 92 or 93 bare case, but I'm not sure the circuitry is the same that far back, or even if it'd be the same from 98 to 01?

Also pulled an electric shift 4406 thinking my 99 V6 2wd would have the T case harness hanging out somewhere underneath...?? Turns out it's not there, and I probably don't want to deal with adding that much wiring. So i'll be looking for another manual case--I've got another rig I'll be converting from AWD later, but the interior/body is too rough to get driving for now. My 99 is really in good shape, so I'll swap everything into it.

And NOW, on FB, I find a 2k for sale but it may have already gone to the crusher.... People need to check their FB more frequently!!! I'm tired of running miles up on my super duty and need my explorer back!
 






Checked the 2k motor and sure enough, they're white injectors.

So I guess the simplest thing to do is add a return line to the 99??
 






What? Okay you lost me

99 explorer is returnless fuel

You’re 98 5.0, does it have orange injectors or white?

You want to run a returnless rail and white injectors on the 5.0 this way it just plugs right into your 99 truck

Do not convert the truck to return style fuel no way Jose, returnless is better

Pull your radio bezel, above the 12v port on the drivers side is there a small harness that would normally plug into the 4wd switch? I bet there is. If there is then most of the 4wd wiring is already in the truck. You would only have to add a wiring harness that goes under the drivers seat to the t case, the switch and then we can take it from there. Basically there is a stand alone t case controller we use it is called “the Motorola box” it comes from 2002+ fords, this basically allows us to put a e shift 4406 into any ford any you only have to hookup like 6 wires to the existing system

Lots of things are possible when working with the 96-01 Gen. Ii trucks. The rwd ones are basically ready to be converted to 4wd rather easily, with the help of those of us who have gone here before

Pictures worth 1000 words!!!
 






What? Okay you lost me

99 explorer is returnless fuel

You’re 98 5.0, does it have orange injectors or white?

You want to run a returnless rail and white injectors on the 5.0 this way it just plugs right into your 99 truck

Do not convert the truck to return style fuel no way Jose, returnless is better

Pull your radio bezel, above the 12v port on the drivers side is there a small harness that would normally plug into the 4wd switch? I bet there is. If there is then most of the 4wd wiring is already in the truck. You would only have to add a wiring harness that goes under the drivers seat to the t case, the switch and then we can take it from there. Basically there is a stand alone t case controller we use it is called “the Motorola box” it comes from 2002+ fords, this basically allows us to put a e shift 4406 into any ford any you only have to hookup like 6 wires to the existing system
Soooo....what 2002+ fords am I looking for to get this box from?

My Bronco has a 2k motor in it. I never paid any attention to the injectors colors. I stuck it in the Bronco and tied the harness into the bronco wiring and it works.

Yes the 98 is orange injectors.

Why is returnless better? I have everything from a 98 parts Ex (front inner structure was damaged in a wreck, PO was in process of repairing when he died.) to swap in my 99 and not have to buy more parts.
 






Is this the box you're talking about?

1686142873145.png
 






yes that is the 02+ 4x4cm or motorolla box
We have hacked that sucker and have all the wiring info. With that thing it is possible to put the esof system into any vehicle really
Can be found in any 02-11 Ranger, 02-08 explorer, expedition and more

Returnless is better because it keeps the fuel cooler, better mpg, pump failures are also less common IMO
Its easier because your truck is already a 99
To install the 98 tank, pump, hoses, it quite possible since you have the entire donor, but not required.

The computer in these trucks does not care what fuel pump or system you run, luckily for us these pcm simply turn the pump on or off and do not regulate pressure, that is all done mechanically at the rail or in the tank

Your bronco using the 2000 5.0 will have white injectors, they run best with 64 psi of rail pressure, They may work with only 42 psi or rail pressure but it is not optimal by any means. If your bronco EFI system is return style and uses the 38-42 psi fuel rail you should be running orange injectors

orange injectors are 19# of fuel delivery per hour at 42 psi, 96-98
white injectors are 19# of fuel delivery per hour at 64 psi, 99-01
The difference is the pressure behind them
 






Why don't I see any threads with pics showing how to do this stuff?? Am I searching using the wrong english language or something?
 






no its not well documented jamie is one of the few who do it
 






yes that is the 02+ 4x4cm or motorolla box
We have hacked that sucker and have all the wiring info. With that thing it is possible to put the esof system into any vehicle really
Can be found in any 02-11 Ranger, 02-08 explorer, expedition and more
I’m at the JY pulling one. I assume I need the connectors also?
 






Following up. I was not able to find a 4x4cm today. I pulled the ECM of a 2002 not realizing it wasn't the right part. Finally compared it to the pic above and NOPE! I'm looking at buying a 2010 module online (pretty cheap from what I'm seeing!). Any reason they don't work? Also looking at the pig tails to go with it. I will be needing the wiring info to put it to use some day.

But I was able to pull a returnless fuel rail and injectors and complete under hood harness. It was HOT and I'm now very dehydrated. Not ONE oring came out with the injectors. So I guess a clean/rebuild of injectors will be in order. Yay. And the counter guy was standing over my shoulder telling me it was time to close up as I got the last one out. THEY WERE STUCK.

Also I pulled the T case harness that drops thru the floor. I only got the part from the connection under the seat. I'm assuming all harnesses have that connector there waiting to be used??
 






4x4cm in rangers is usually next to the radio

On some trucks it is under passenger kick panel

In the gen iii explorer and expedition I believe it’s on the center console area

It has been a while since I had to pull one so don’t quote me just going on memory
They all say Motorola on them and 4x4cm so you will know when you find the correct part

2010 Module should work but you will need the pigtails for sure

I believe you will find your explorer has the wiring harness under the carpet for the t case plug in, but again please keep in mind I have only ever owned one rwd gen ii explorer, being from Colorado they all had a front diff

To get injectors out of the intake, wiggle the whole rail back and forth to loosen the o rings then pry them upwards

Well done thus far! Don’t forget you will also need the radio bezel with the 4wd 3
Position switch

We can get into the 4x4 cm wiring later once you have all of the bits

In recent years I started to detail my 5.0 conversions for everyone to see, however they are
Mostly into rangers or sport tracs because converting a gen ii explorer, well I usually Crush those things! 3 and 5 door ford suvs have never been worth much, that is until Covid happened

I have some threads showing complete 5.0 swaps into various rangers and sport tracs, I can share the links if you need them
 






Already had the bezel. Grabbed that last week in the 50% sale at the JY on Memorial Day.

I didn't have time today to fight whatever was left holding the upper intake on so I was wiggling the rail with the upper lifted up a little to one side. It was not going well. Ended up prying it up to get it loose. Then the injectors were STUCK in the lower.

I've got pigtails coming and I'm waiting on the module itself. If I can get cheap like I'm thinking, it's better than having to pull it from a JY.

My hold up at this point is the grime underneath the 99. Something had been spraying oil for some time and the bottom of the car is terribly nasty. I need to get my dad's steam cleaner burning again and figure out how to get underneath and clean it up. I'm tired of working on greasy, grimy stuff like it's in the JY.

I'm also going to try to document the work I have to do installing this stuff.
 






edited. I posted the wrong images....
 






You know those concrete scrubbers for a power washer? The ones that spin? I saw a YouTube where a dude simply flipped it upside down and mounted it to a furniture dolley, then slides it under the truck = undercarriage wash!!

If you are going to crush the 99 donor just cut it up like this makes access and drivetrain pull so much easier

634809FE-E381-4B17-AEE2-31E7C1A87B46.jpeg


I cannot imagine pulling injectors with that heavy pig if an intake still holding on!! The egr tube, the pcv valve, the brake booster line all give you fits back there
 






whern i saw i couldnt break the egr tube or stretch it much, i took the valve loose from the intake elbow. my donor looked like that but the PO had screwed new inner structure to it. took about five minutes to have it clear.

i'm not sure that pressure wash idea would be too effective. dad has a lift, but we dont have enough power at that location to run the steam cleaner..... so maybe just a soak in some degreaser and his small pressure washer?
 



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Take a generator over there and use the steam?
Nice to have a lift AND A HOTSY!
I've/we've been in the market for a hotsy and a tire machine, finally got the tire machine

All these years I have just washed the undercarriage by laying on the ground or getting as low as I can with a gas powered pressure washer, its amazing how much you can clean with just the wand if you do not mind getting wet

if you yank the entire drivetrain out the front (sans t case) then you do not need to do so much pre cleaning, as you can more easily clean it once it is out

to make your life easier you can remove the center console, cut the carpet, open the floor access plate, this gives access to the top t case bolts more easily without going underneath

I have crushed so many explorers I have it down to a two day process, the second day with the truck on the trailer I pull the rear axle (45 minutes) and then head to the crusher
 






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