The Black Hole | Page 67 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

You need to stop running over gypsy's mate, this is moving away from a laugh into scary scary territory. Glad you're OK.
 



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I am thinking you could make some serious coin doing brakes! You have to know the Explorer brakes like the back of your hand, you could probably do rotor/pad changes in your sleep! Take the money, get an old priest, holy water, and one of those miracle crying mary statues made in marble. Maybe even "friend" Linda Blair on facebook.
No thanks. I want to go back to the days of just pads & fluid flushes only :frustrate

You need to stop running over gypsy's mate, this is moving away from a laugh into scary scary territory. Glad you're OK.

Thanks Greg. My sanity is the only thing harmed over this, other than that, I'm just fine :crazy:
 






I dont even know what to say, $5 off.... That is Insane, were you at Bubba's Salvage?

You may want to change the name of Black Hole to Christine II.

In all seriousness, Glad You Are Okay!!! That is some serious insanity going on there.
 






The name Black Hole, is fitting for this beast. Problem now is it is thirsty for things other than my wallet. The vortex is growing!

Remember the Movie "The Evil Dead"? In that movie, the evil being and the hero get sucked away by a black hole vortex.

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I keep hearing the line from that movie in my head over & over........

I'll swallow your soul, I'll swallow your soul!


My latest profile picture after a day at the salvage yard..

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Think I'm gonna sleep with the lights on tonight. :eek:
 






Hahaha, f***en jesus, I'm back to laughing again. Classic mate, chin up brother hahahaha
 






Attempted to install the brake lines today. :eek:

Removed the J/T (junction tee), with all three lines attached to it. I did find that the passenger side line was kind of ****ed a bit going into it. :scratch:

So I removed some of the stock coil that wraps around the line, cut off the end, and made a new flare before the bend, and reinstalled it. So the passenger line is still the stock line. Going to try this first, if it works, awesome, if not, well, back to fighting another new hard line install. :roll:

I removed the stock drivers side line completely, and was really impressed with it's design. In the middle of the line, it flex's like a rubber line does (always thought it was rubber line). It is wrapped in a plastic tube with zip ties. I removed it, and found a very nice section of steel braided line between the hard lines. Hard lines are wrapped with steel coils to dissipate the heat from the engine compartment. :thumbsup:

100_6339.jpg



But, I had to replace that line with the new line I had. Holding the stock line in hand, I simply followed the bends with the new line from the bottom to the braided section.

Fed that lower half down from the top of the engine bay, and tediously got it to fit in the same place as the stock line. Once that was connected to the caliper soft line, I then made a new routing on the upper half to meet up with the J/T. Since the ABS pump is gone, I had more room to work with, and was able to get all three lines connected to the J/T and with the J/T sitting level, and no longer at an angle as it was previously.

newer brake JT set up.jpg


This took me longer than I had hoped for, and I didn't get a chance to find help to bleed the system again. :rolleyes:

Tomorrow, I am going to try to gravity bleed if I can't find a helper.

Special Note for later:
Only metric fitting left on the system is at the front line connection on the master. M12x1.0x3/16" line. All other fittings are 3/16"-24, and take a 3/8" wrench. Soft lines use a 14mm to the line fittings. Hard lines have long fitting at the soft line connection, and short fitting at the master/J-T.
 






I think if I had this many brake problems I would've rolled the explorer off a cliff by this point....
 












I think if I had this many brake problems I would've rolled the explorer off a cliff by this point....

Thought about it a few times then I realized it cant make it to the cliff safely, with bad brakes.

You can do it.

Thanks for the encouragement. Been questioning my thinking over trying to fix this myself over having a shop do it. Not sure I saved any $$ this way, but I sure have gained some knowledge.
 






Stardate: 04.2.12

We have brakes. Not the best brakes as the pedal is still a bit soft, but none the less we have brakes. :bounce:

No leaks to be found.
6 panic stops and not one pedal bypass.
Rig stops very well on demand.
Pedal stays firm after pumping when engine is shut off each & every time.
More road testing to be done before it gets the all clear.


I am thinking that somehow it has weak vac pressure to the booster from the intake. I did check the hose and replaced the one-way valve on the hose at booster, just to be sure, but no change resulted.

How would I test that pressure, and what should it be? :scratch:

I still hear that loud hiss under the dash when pumping the pedal tho. I do not hear that in the 94 Ex, and they are basically the same system. :dunno:


Oh, one last thing...I did find the vac line going to the PCV to be loose, and barely hanging on. The end of the tube was all swelled out. I will replace that and see if that helps the vac pressure at all.
 






Awesome News Captain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost Like Winning the Mega Millions? Almost

Really glad to hear it, I was really starting to believe the exorcism thang.
 






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I tried one of a different brand, but it was too long.

They are a good idea.

Let us know if it fits properly.
 






I tried one of a different brand, but it was too long.

They are a good idea.

Let us know if it fits properly.



Be awhile. I am getting things together for the rear swap, and came across this eliminator, and thought...Hmmmm Should I? :scratch:
 












They go around the pinion gear shaft. It is merely for faster setting of the pinion gear shaft's bearing preload. Meaning this was used by Ford at the factory to speed things up on the production line. LOL

It replaced individual shims that hold the bearings away from each other when tightening the pinion nut. takes about 220 lbs to torx that bad boy down, and needs to be replaced every time you change gears out.
 






I just barely set up my rear gears and the initial TQ to get it to start crushing was over 400ft-lb :eek: At least that what my gun is rated at and I even had the pressure set higher than the guns rating. It took a few pipes and a few tools in order to get it to crush for me at least.

The crush collars are a really easy way (minus the TQ needed) to set the pinion bearing preload. Preload is needed for proper gear and bearing life.
 






400# !!

I dont trust the impacts for that myself, even tho thats how it is done at the factory, but they use a preset impact dialed in just for that job.

Two grunts and a fart with a 4 ft cheater bar is pert near close. :D
 



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