The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Tim, thats a good idea! I will ask him.

Kurt, that earlier diagram posted a week ago, I had no idea what year that was for, as you was mixing years up at that time.

I just posted a pic of the PDB showing what is in it. I don't consider that to be a small box. it's the biggest box in the rig! lol

I know there is also a small relay box under the dash, besides the other small relay boxes under the hood, and in the cargo area. Had no frigging clue what is what for any of them as far as numbers go.

The last diagram you just posted of under the hood shows #1 having the tow harness relays, not # 2 box by the pass headlight. The diagram showing the rear fender, can't make out the relay box # on it. Is it a 3?

 

[gmanpaint]

It's the brake pedal switch!!

Just pulled #13 fuse, it was blown. I replaced it, and watched it as I pressed the pedal. Blew instantly.

I just have to figure out what they spliced into this switch harness when they did the swap. I will go get a new switch, just in case.

At least I know where the issue is now, and don't have to gut the rear cargo out! Just have to yank the dr seat, which is about 100 times easier.

Also, the fuse diagram shows another fuse for the BPP at #9-7.5a, and #30-15a for the trailer tow relay. Weird.

 

[KurtECV]

Good Deal.

If it blow right away, you can jump the input and output from the BPP switch and see if it blows again.. if it does blow again you have a wiring problem.

if it doesnt blow and the lights work as intended then you have a bad BPP

Also if you could view live data from the bpp switch and figure out where is blowing (within the switch)

 

[gmanpaint]

Cool. If it is the switch, not the wiring, I just need to know if the 98 switch is dif then the 95 so I know which to buy. lol

I believe they are different, because they wired it with the swap, but as per usual right now, I'm guessing here. I need to do a little research on these things still.

Edit:

So I think I need the harness side of the switch as this is where the splice is. Going to call Ford and see if they have a service switch available or not. And.... it's a weekend. lol

 

[KurtECV]

Well thinking about it now... I think you should leave that in there. I'm sure it's there for a reason.

I would be concerned with the short to ground that you have on the BPP switch circuit before that in-line splice.

Once you figure out the short to ground. Then disconnect that splice and find out what stopped working lmao.

Or option B: hard wire (solder/shrink wrap) that splice into that circuit permanently.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, I don't like those type of wire splicer's. That's a U-haul tech style type of job there.

There is definitely a good short in the circuit, to blow a 20 amp fuse when pressing the pedal.

I was always told, and have always followed this, when trying to find a short. Always look where any recent work was done first. Problem here is, that is from the radiator back to the cargo area!

I will start at the pedal switch and work back I guess. (lowers head, walks away, grumbles, kicks rocks)

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool. If it is the switch, not the wiring, I just need to know if the 98 switch is dif then the 95 so I know which to buy. lol

I believe they are different, because they wired it with the swap, but as per usual right now, I'm guessing here. I need to do a little research on these things still.

Edit:

So I think I need the harness side of the switch as this is where the splice is. Going to call Ford and see if they have a service switch available or not. And.... it's a weekend. lol


View attachment 165313

I'd fix that wiring of that connector immediately. Those are horrible splicing devices, unreliable and they damage the wires they cut into. If not for the tons of changes for the swap, I'd bet the short is from that added wire there at the BOO switch. I'd trace it and find the short.

Begin by disconnecting that added wire and the splice. Test that wire end and see if it tests as ground, that would be a short.

 

[gmanpaint]

Agreed 110%

The splice is so close to the connector tho, and being under the dash, this will be an ordeal for me to work on. Think fat guy, in a little suit. Lol

Ah well, it is, what it is.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, you basically have to lay sideways with your head on the trans hump. Vacuum it a bit first, and work on it before cleaning/showering later.

The OEM connector has a plastic terminal lock that might make it easier to work on if you remove the terminals first. Remove the tape and splice(toss in trash), some of the protective sleeve, and see how tough it will be to work on.

 

[gmanpaint]

Never been able to work in tight places like under the dash. My body doesn't like to twist, and contort, with out pain. You ever experience your floating rib to fold over and pinch yourself from within? Yeah that happens to me putting on a jacket lol

6 foot and 230 lbs of construction worker with 9 surgeries, 10 thumbs, and crammed in a dashboard threading a needle = fun time for onlookers.

Good times!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Okay, you have a need for a good short friend.

My best friend is 6'4" and about 12 years older than me, with a replaced hip and torn shoulder muscles. I am the good short friend of his, I'm 6'1" and 55, 225lbs, and we've both lost an inch of height due to age. Getting old sucks obviously.

 

[gmanpaint]

I am in the same age bracket as you Don. Some day's I feel in your friend's age bracket tho. Those are the days it sucks.
I used to have one of them short skinny buddies. They did all the hard to reach stuff with ease. I need to rent one of them, from time to time.

Tornado warnings and crashing T-storms all night, and made another mess of the yard. I don't think I have time to mess with this rig today before the next round of storms hits me. Temps are sky rocketing today, and plunging later, and that can only spell trouble. Might have to work on the other project in the garage.

Kurt, you linked the diagrams instead of uploading. AllData is changing all of them to different pictures each time I login. Can you change them, or I can delete them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Me too, storms ending today, then one nice Sunday before temps drop again etc. I'm in the garage hopefully half this day, and then outside tomorrow. Too much to do, and age has a lot to do with it.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

looking at some of the stuff they have done, and knowing one of them prided themselves as being a king of electronics for these trucks (dont care if they are reading this either. i know them, they know me) this really looks like a hack job using scotch locks. i know you dont want to hear me say this, but at this point i would be looking at gutting the wiring out of the truck, and getting a complete donor harness from another and starting all over rewiring it. thats the way it should have been done in the first place. who know if that thing is going to start on fire a year or so down the line with the way things have been done.

 

[gmanpaint]

I hear ya there. That's why this rig has been sitting all this time. It's not safe to use as is.
Plan is to take it to Kurt's shop, and he is yanking the entire harness, and going thru the dash wiring.

I know someone who is sending me a 98 harness. They did a swap, in a ranger, but are using all wiring from a 97 instead of dealing with Pat's.

After all the hard earned cash spent on this rig, and will be 1.5 yrs from 5.0 swap until it can be used again, this 3 month job has gone full on depressing. Hard lesson learned here.

 

[gmanpaint]

Has anybody re-pinned the bulk head connector at the firewall on the inside?

There is a different pin out for the Overdrive from 95 (fuse 26) to 98 (fuse 27). I'm thinking they forgot to check this, and there is no connection from harness to fuse box for the OD.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you mean the three connectors in a row outboard of the brake booster? Those are in the dash harness.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, but on the dash side. The 98 engine harness side wouldn't match the 95 dash side for the Overdrive pins. I want to pull them apart, and check the pinouts for that circuit. If it doesn't match up, I want to move the pin on the dash side, so they make a circuit. Just trying to figure this out before I give it the old college try, and never moved a pin on the bulkhead before.
Both 95 & 98 wire colors for the OD are the same. Tan/W & Purple/O.

 

[CDW6212R]

Gotcha. The pictures I posted show both sides of those three pairs of connectors. You can see the three interior connectors on the far right side of that first picture. That's the dash harness, I was adding the ARC wiring to the truck.

They are square, black, brown, and grey. The large white plastic square piece inside each is the lock that holds the terminals in. You just push out that white piece, and then you can remove any terminal with a tiny screw driver or pick etc.

I'm not sure how hard it will be to take any of the connectors out from the firewall, they are up there quite a ways above the pedals.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Don, that's exactly what I was hoping to hear.