Well, I have to give my wife a little credit for helping, but that was mostly holding a light. I'll snap a few other "after" photos. I didn't get any during the process 'cause I figured Mountaingreen already took care of everything that needed a photo.
I did put everything together from the elbow to the EGR to the intake BEFORE putting it in the vehicle. I wouldn't have thought to do that if Mountaingreen hadn't mentioned it, but it made it a LOT easier to assemble out of the truck. Since it's so light, I was able to handle it myself.
I did use a dab of RTV in 3 spots to glue the gaskets to each side of the spacer. Then I took the two long bolts and put them in at the front and rear locations, and TAPED them with masking tape so that they did not fall through all the way and get caught up. I also taped the spacer to the intake with a couple pieces of masking tape on the side. I made sure I put the tape in a place that I could easily remove it when I got everything in place.
That preparation allowed me to handle the whole intake and spacer alone. Placed it on top of the lower, far enough forward to allow me to connect the EGR lines and brake and EGR vacuum lines. Took a little bit to figure out the best place to put the rear EGR hose since the intake is now an inch higher, and you have to get that little stubby hose around the fuel rail.
Once I got all of the rear hoses attached, I CAREFULLY slid the whole intake back, lifting up on it so as not to catch the gasket on anything. Once it was completely flat on the lower it was just a matter of fine tuning until I got the bolts in. Like I said, my spacer kit came with 6 new bolts, 3 different lengths. I'm not sure why they did not have 4 of the same length - they could have, but I decided that I'd rather have the longer bolts at the front and back. That worked, but the slightly shorter bolt would have fit in the rear a little easier, but at that point I would have had to take everything out again, so instead I just used an open end wrench to tighten the rear bolt since it was right against the firewall.
I also did not remove the bracket and wiring harness. Could have, but didn't need to. Slid everything back under it, and it worked out fine. Access would have been easier, but I'm not sure it would have helped anyway, since that bolt head was touching the firewall anyway. And I'm not sure the issue with the EGR Vacuum Regulator. I didn't have to do any mods - it does not even come close to the firewall. Probably a difference between the internal and external EGR setup.
One issue that I could not solve, and hope it does not bite me later: The wire going to the EGR sensor is VERY tight. There's no way to mount the sensor to release the stress on the wire, and no way that I could find to lengthen the wiring harness. This is another internal EGR vs. external difference with the spacer, since the external EGR setups do not have the sensor on the EGR.
As I mentioned, my test drive felt good. Truck ran fine, no tick-tick-tick at idle (new exhaust manifold), and throttle response felt really good to me. Will get a better idea tomorrow on the ride to work. Might have to tighten up the exhaust flange a bit, but it did not seem to be leaking any.
It's a chunk of work. Gotta remove the shroud, fan, and radiator, in order to get to the harmonic balancer and get it off. Removing that thing with a strap wrench was more than a b*tch. It was at least two. Now, you're right - the bolts will come out easy this time ..... unless I wait and they get all corroded again. I'd rather that the next time I do this, the whole engine comes out, so, if there ain't coolant in the oil, then I'll probably let it go. It's a slow leak.
I'll have to try them again in the morning, as it's not looking like I'm going to find what I need at HD.
