Trying not to beat a dead horse

[DickyDanger]

Just want some advise on this. 2002 mountaineer 4.6 AWD 143,890 miles. I have owned the truck since 128,000 miles. The truck has always shifted funny since i bought it. Delayed reverse engagement, late shifts on every shift, some times hard shutter shifts on higher Rpms. I have put about 15,000 miles on it in the 15 months i have owned it with no codes or anything. Sunday while towing my honda three wheeler on a small trailer the od light start flashing and it said check transmission. I pulled over shut the truck off and let it cool down. I started the truck and both the light and messege were gone i drove it 40 miles more home no issue. I scanned itand got gear 5 incorrect ratio. That was the only code. I cleared it and have been driving it short trips around town all week. It seems to start to hold shifts extremely long now with od off but with od on it has been shifting normal so long as i keep the rpm around 1800-2000romper the shift points. Before i just throw a solenoid pack at it i was hoping for advise suggestions and criticism. I will end with it is a 02 mountaineer 4.6 AWD. 143,890 miles and i flushed the transmission with synthetic atf at 128,000 when i bought it, also replaced tge leaking transmission cooler and checked today to verify fluid was at proper level. Thanks for any help


-Dicky

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Transmission?

My 1997 Explorer had some funky transmission issues... Late shifts, O/D engagement issues. Finally, slippage between first and second gear that you could resolve by backing off the throttle. No codes. This was at approximately 350,000 miles and original transmission.

After installing two salvage yard transmissions, discoverd it was the PCM that needed to be replaced. The salvage transmissions had the exact same shift issues and patterns, so we correctly figured it had to be the PCM, The original transmission was very likely still good. I do not know how you would ever diagnose that, except maybe the Ford dealer with some more expensive equipment. With the high mileage, all of the transmission shops said I needed a new transmission. I guess the failing computer does not throw a code for a failing computer. The PCM was relatively cheap.

Just a thought. Good luck with your Explorer.

Mr. Alligator.

 

[DickyDanger]

thanks for the input, you may have not read my post entirely. first off it is a mountaineer. and secondly i did mention that it set a code once along with flashing od light and check transmission messege. i decided to pull the trigger on a updated solenoid pack from tasca ford today. my cost it was 280$ and will be here monday, i will install tuesday and update my progress

 

[Joe in NY]

The thing is, he is completely relevant to your issue. The 2nd gen explorers have the same transmission as the 3rd gen explorers and mountaineers have.

So....

 

[DickyDanger]

The thing is, he is completely relevant to your issue. The 2nd gen explorers have the same transmission as the 3rd gen explorers and mountaineers have.

So....

I set a new code tonight on my way home p0732 for 2nd gear incorrect ratio which has never happened since I bought it. so I highly doubt my computer is the issue. It seems mechanical as it has done this for over the year i have owned it and now its just getting worse progressively. I asked for advise on this site for help and advise not criticism llike I said I'm going to try and new solenoid pack and hope for the best.

 

[DickyDanger]

My father's 2001 Explorer is also all wheel drive with a v8 but it has the 5.0 he has over 200,000 miles has never flushed his transmission and has had none of the issues that I do

 

[Turdle]

My 1997 Explorer had some funky transmission issues... Late shifts, O/D engagement issues. Finally, slippage between first and second gear that you could resolve by backing off the throttle. No codes. This was at approximately 350,000 miles and original transmission.

After installing two salvage yard transmissions, discoverd it was the PCM that needed to be replaced. The salvage transmissions had the exact same shift issues and patterns, so we correctly figured it had to be the PCM, The original transmission was very likely still good. I do not know how you would ever diagnose that, except maybe the Ford dealer with some more expensive equipment. With the high mileage, all of the transmission shops said I needed a new transmission. I guess the failing computer does not throw a code for a failing computer. The PCM was relatively cheap.

Just a thought. Good luck with your Explorer.

Mr. Alligator.

thanks for the input, you may have not read my post entirely. first off it is a mountaineer. and secondly i did mention that it set a code once along with flashing od light and check transmission messege. i decided to pull the trigger on a updated solenoid pack from tasca ford today. my cost it was 280$ and will be here monday, i will install tuesday and update my progress

Before thinking you are getting criticized, maybe you should read the post completely before criticizing.

1st off a Mountaineer is a rebadged explorer. Just some different plastic.
secondly he clearly stated a failing pcm doesn't throw a failing pcm code.


But you seem to want to do want you want to do. You made a decision, then came for advice which backed your decision.

Advice isn't always what you want to hear.

Since the transmission is controlled by the computer, using inputs from various sensors thru wiring, your problem could be as simple as a flaky throttle position sensor, ( checked free of charge) a transmission range sensor, (checked free of charge) or even a bad connection. I've seen Main power cable chaffing on your generation of explorer which has been known to cause all types of issues.
It could very likely be caused by a failing PCM also, and lastly, yes it could be an expensive mechanical failure.

You go ahead and do the most expensive things first. Let us know how well it works out.

 

[2000StreetRod]

warm vs cold?

Have you noticed any difference when the transmission fluid is cold vs after it is warmed up? The external ATF cooling loop is supposed to open when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) reaches 125 deg F. If the line pressure is low due to leaks or weak springs the problem will be more exaggerated when the external ATF loop is open because more fluid is flowing thru the pump.

I've read that the original Mercon V prior to May 2005 had some additive that caused the solenoids and other valves to deteriorate from rapid wear.

Do you have the 5R55S or 5R55W?

 

[DickyDanger]

Have you noticed any difference when the transmission fluid is cold vs after it is warmed up? The external ATF cooling loop is supposed to open when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) reaches 125 deg F. If the line pressure is low due to leaks or weak springs the problem will be more exaggerated when the external ATF loop is open because more fluid is flowing thru the pump.

I've read that the original Mercon V prior to May 2005 had some additive that caused the solenoids and other valves to deteriorate from rapid wear.

Do you have the 5R55S or 5R55W?

I have the 5r55s and the transmission seems to work best when cold and as it gets up to operating temperature the shifts get harder and more drawn out. And to adress what turdle said you must think i am a complete moron if you assume i dont know that the mountaineer is just a rebadged ford explorer but not liking the explorer i did what ford sought out to do by making mercury by buying a ford product i didnt have to call a ford. My mother has a 2004 excursion my sister a 2005 explorer and my dad a 2001 explorer my aunt owns 2014 explorer and my uncle 2015 f-150 so you could say we are a ford family but i decided to be different

 

[2000StreetRod]

please keep us updated

. . . i decided to pull the trigger on a updated solenoid pack from tasca ford today. my cost it was 280$ and will be here monday, i will install tuesday and update my progress

Please keep us updated on your progress. I'm in the process of purchasing a 2003 Explorer with the 5R55S/4.6L and 180K miles on the odometer. I've pretty much decided to rebuild the transmission during the next year (even though I didn't notice any problems during my 15 minute test drive) because of it's age, mileage and the early Mercon V defect. I've been reading about the Sonnax line pressure booster kit 5R55WS-LB1 that seems to have some desirable qualities.

 

[DickyDanger]

Please keep us updated on your progress. I'm in the process of purchasing a 2003 Explorer with the 5R55S/4.6L and 180K miles on the odometer. I've pretty much decided to rebuild the transmission during the next year (even though I didn't notice any problems during my 15 minute test drive) because of it's age, mileage and the early Mercon V defect. I've been reading about the Sonnax line pressure booster kit 5R55WS-LB1 that seems to have some desirable qualities.

When i spoke with ford today about ordering the pack they told me that the solenoid pack has been updated twice for my model based on vin number. i heard about the bad fluid thats like the same thing that happened with gm and there dexcool coolant eating head gaskets. I did a 16 quart synthetic flush when i first bought this truck and made it from 128,000 to 144,000 without check transmission lights poping up until now. I hooe its just the pack anf not a servo or bad band/clutches.

 

[2000StreetRod]

manual problems?

Have you tried the manual selections to see if there are any problems? One thing I like about the 5R55S is that it stays in the selected manual gear. Below is the solenoid logic for the various gear selections.

I suspect the PCx solenoids wear faster than the SSx solenoids because the PCx solenoids are modulated while the SSx solenoids are just on or off.

 

[DickyDanger]

The only manual selections i have are 1 2 and 3 and i have tried each gear and the transmission stayed in each gear and never shifted to another gear with out me moving the shifter. Im glad that you brought that up i will try it again tuesday when i bring it back to work to swap the packs out. As off today my newest issue with the trans coinciding with the p0732 code was that i had to let off the gas pedal for the transmission to switch into second gear in drive with overdrive on. I dont know why most vehicles default to overdrive on? Mayne so people dont forget when approaching highway speeds? Either way im stuck driving my jeep until further notice haha

 

[2000StreetRod]

4m

4M is just Drive with the transmission control switch active to prevent overdrive. What I was wondering was if when driving in any of the four manual modes if an incorrect ratio DTC was generated. I think one reason the gear selection defaults to O/D when the engine is started is to help meet federal fuel economy standards.

 

[DickyDanger]

4M is just Drive with the transmission control switch active to prevent overdrive. What I was wondering was if when driving in any of the four manual modes if an incorrect ratio DTC was generated. I think one reason the gear selection defaults to O/D when the engine is started is to help meet federal fuel economy standards.

The fuel economy makes sense my 1996 grand cherokee does the same thing. I will take the mountaineer for a ride tomorrow, shifting manually and see how it goes. Like i mentioned it shifted funny since i bought it and i did anything i could with out opening it up i read about the failing solenoid pack for a year now. What ever my issue is i will figure it out and fix it I eill not give up. Most of the miles i put on this tuck have been pulling a two place trailer with two machines on it all over new england

 

[2000StreetRod]

bad link

xlt03, your link didn't work for me. Is the following the one: O/D Light Blinking and P0732 - SOLVED!

If so, how is the servo bore fix holding up? I was thinking about trying it since the boring tool kit and fixture is so expensive just to ream and sleeve the servo pin bores.

 

[xlt03]

2000StreetRod
Thanks for redirecting to my post.
So far since I did the servo bore I've put on 15, 000 miles on it and have no issues. The only additional comments I would add is to recommend removing the snap rings utilizing the alternate method of drilling the small hole. Using the 90 degree needle nose pliers didn't work for me.


DickyDanger
I would do both, since you have it up in the air. May as well do both and wrestle the heat shield only once. On mines, when I reamed the hole with the sandpaper I could feel it bind a bit on both bores. Keep us in the loop on your progress and final solution.

 

[xlt03]

2000StreetRod

My thought process at the time was why spend the money for the sleeve kit and have to take apart the trans unless I was planning to rebuild it, I also saw that sleeved cases were on eBay but it too would be me rebuilding my existing one. My train of thought is to do the servo bore kit and when it no longer works I would do it again with the provided second set of o-rings. When the trans finally quits I'm thinking of a Ford reman trans. Ford remans comes with torque converter and fluids installed. All parts are replaced with updates. This way I do not have to buy specialty tools. Warranty is 3years, unlimited miles.

In my case living in California, my vehicle looks brand new. No rust, paint is perfect minus the stone chips on hood. Only things I need to do is the black door trims and hatch trims. Now have 140, 000 miles on it. I figured this is cheaper than a new vehicle. If I was to replace with similarly equipped 2016 Explorer as my 03, I be spending $47K plus insurance.

 

[DickyDanger]

2000StreetRod
Thanks for redirecting to my post.
So far since I did the servo bore I've put on 15, 000 miles on it and have no issues. The only additional comments I would add is to recommend removing the snap rings utilizing the alternate method of drilling the small hole. Using the 90 degree needle nose pliers didn't work for me.


DickyDanger
I would do both, since you have it up in the air. May as well do both and wrestle the heat shield only once. On mines, when I reamed the hole with the sandpaper I could feel it bind a bit on both bores. Keep us in the loop on your progress and final solution.

what hole are you talking about reaming? the holes om the snap ring? I have not looked at the servo locations yet. I have 90 degree snap ring pliers so I was not going to buy the 90 degree needle nose pliers. after I road forced balanced my tires last night I put it further up in the air so look for an alternative fill hole that I have seen people talking about so that I did not have to fill trans through the bottom on the pan. I saw that, it looks hard to acces but I am not ruling it out. it is a allen head cap located on the passenger side of trans towards the end near where the trans mates with transfer case. I don't NEED to drive the mountaineer so if solenoid pack doesn't make positive change the truck can sit until I can afford to purchase the new servos. the 280$ on the solenoid pack plus added cost of 5-7 quarts of fluid and a filter is enough investment for this week as I have been already putting more money into my most expensive free snowmobile than I should be doing, besides the fact that the mountaineer just got new tensioner pulley, belt, water pump, dorman intake and thermostat in the past two weeks. luckily I am experienced enough to do all the work myself after hours and get all my parts at costa nd not list

 

[DickyDanger]

never mind I just watched the video on the web site. i'm going to talk to the gf and see if I can get these ordered this week and put the whole mess behind me. get my truck back to how it should have been from day one.