Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.

 

[FIND]

That looks delicious! What did you end up going with for specs?

 

[Dono]

Here's the specs:
4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet 72mm turbine got the f1-68 compressor blade, 3 inch exhaust outlet, t4, journal bearing.

The compressor maps posted on the first Page. Physically its pretty big. It is just might have to go where my spare tire is.

And, Tim, notice there is only one.

 

[FIND]

That is big. That's going to push a lot of air.

I don't know why I didn't realize that you posted all that in your first post. That sucker's gonna put a big smile on your face once you get into boost.

 

[jd4242]

When do you think your start making boost? Being so big and rear mount, I would think it will have a ton of lag.but idk

 

[vroomzoomboom]

And, Tim, notice there is only one.

yea, how come you didnt take a pic of the other one.......or the nitrous

 

[Dono]

JD, from what I understand with the turbo's is that its the angle of the blades that determine how fast the turbo spools up. The lower the AR, the faster the turbo spools.
This one has an AR of 68, which is right around what STS uses on their kits. This should be perfect for rear mount and making boost around 2000-2500rpm. This turbo isn't going to give me the 'off the line' boost the M90 did. Top end is way stronger as a rule though.

2 small turbo's would spool faster, but way more piping. Besides, Tim found this one locally from a guy that decided to go a different route with his project car. This meant a better price on the turbo, no taxes, and no shipping costs. Still expensive, but a top notch turbo unit.

 

[jd4242]

JD, from what I understand with the turbo's is that its the angle of the blades that determine how fast the turbo spools up. The lower the AR, the faster the turbo spools.
This one has an AR of 68, which is right around what STS uses on their kits. This should be perfect for rear mount and making boost around 2000-2500rpm. This turbo isn't going to give me the 'off the line' boost the M90 did. Top end is way stronger as a rule though.

2 small turbo's would spool faster, but way more piping. Besides, Tim found this one locally from a guy that decided to go a different route with his project car. This meant a better price on the turbo, no taxes, and no shipping costs. Still expensive, but a top notch turbo unit.

O that's not bad at all then.yea idk crap about turbos so im going to ask some stupid questions I'm sure.along for the ride and knowledge

And here is one....so you had the turbo built or the guy you got it from had it built? Its not like a off the shelf or off a vehicle?

 

[Dono]

The guy I picked it up from had it built by turbonetics with the specs he wanted.

I don't know much about turbo's either, but it seems this is the fastest way to learn.

 

[jd4242]

The guy I picked it up from had it built by turbonetics with the specs he wanted.

I don't know much about turbo's either, but it seems this is the fastest way to learn.

O gotcha. That was a good find then

 

[Dono]

As Im working thru the oiling of what I think will be a remote mount turbo right at the back of the truck, Im still thinking about getting the oil to the turbo.

t the very least I will have to tap in to the engine oil at the oil pressure sending unit with a T, and drill a hole in the valve cover for oil return using a pump....or....

Get a tank I can use for oil (Really, how big does it need to be? 1 litre??) Id need a oil pump anyway, so I'd just use it to pump back in to the top of the oil reservoir. I guess I'd need a small radiator to run the oil thru also. Then there is filling concerns, as it would have to be reasonably easy to re-fill the resevoir after draining it.

Ok, I think I just talked myself out of the separate oil system. On the outside, it seemed easier since I'm not running oil lines to the back of the truck, or tapping in to the motors oil system, but I think the radiator and re-filling the oil makes it too complex.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[Dono]

Ok, not the best idea. reading about this, the issue is that the oil takes too long to heat up.

 

[jd4242]

how about one of those remote oil cooler adapters? Think you still need to run a pump tho if its that far away, think I saw that somewhere.

Obviously its a ohv but the thing where the oil filter goes

 

[jd4242]

As Im working thru the oiling of what I think will be a remote mount turbo right at the back of the truck, Im still thinking about getting the oil to the turbo.

t the very least I will have to tap in to the engine oil at the oil pressure sending unit with a T, and drill a hole in the valve cover for oil return using a pump....or....

Get a tank I can use for oil (Really, how big does it need to be? 1 litre??) Id need a oil pump anyway, so I'd just use it to pump back in to the top of the oil reservoir. I guess I'd need a small radiator to run the oil thru also. Then there is filling concerns, as it would have to be reasonably easy to re-fill the resevoir after draining it.

Ok, I think I just talked myself out of the separate oil system. On the outside, it seemed easier since I'm not running oil lines to the back of the truck, or tapping in to the motors oil system, but I think the radiator and re-filling the oil makes it too complex.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Ok, not the best idea. reading about this, the issue is that the oil takes too long to heat up.

Which idea? It takes to long to heat up? Don't really understand that, how does that work?

 

[willzilla]

Just T it off the oil sending unit run a line to a rear mounted STS oil pump, and then return line connect into the oil fill neck. Have the pump run for 3-5 minutes after you shut off the truck to prevent oil coking in the turbo.

 

[Dono]

Just T it off the oil sending unit run a line to a rear mounted STS oil pump, and then return line connect into the oil fill neck. Have the pump run for 3-5 minutes after you shut off the truck to prevent oil coking in the turbo.

I can't imagine you have the size of the T fittings?
Would make my life a lot easier.

 

[willzilla]

I can't imagine you have the size of the T fittings?
Would make my life a lot easier.

Nope, sorry :-/

I can't even reach the damn thing, lol. I may be able to get it out once I finished ripping apart my truck and could measure it then if I can remove it... No idea how long before I get to it though.

 

[Dono]

I havn't looked at the oil sender unit yet. It doesn't sound fun to get out.
What I will do is pull my sender, and go to the hardware store to match up a T and fittings.

edit: Found the size, care of Rock Auto: NPT: 1/4" x 18 Thread

 

[Dono]

For My records, as much as for the next guy doing this, here is the oil feed T threads required. I'm going with 4AN for the oil feed, as there is no real reason to go larger as too much oil for the turbo is not good either.
The return oil feed will be larger (10AN). Also, a check valve in the return to prevent oil backup.

 

[Dono]

more oiling head scratching

So I found a kit that cxracing on ebay has all the 4an oil feed connectors, and 10an oil return connectors and a bit of oil line. Adding up all the parts individually, this makes sense, so I bought it.

Next head scratcher is where to feed the oil back to the motor.
The kit comes with an adapter that will allow you to tap in to the oil pan, but you need access to the inside of the oil pan for the nut. Im not doing that. Period.
I don't see why I couldn't use that same adapter on a valve cover though. A valve cover doesn't look easy to pull off, but quite possibly its way easier than it looks.
The 3rd option is to do it the way STS does it. Using a 10an quick disconnect on the oil fill cap. This option is not cheep, but it is easy. Also, if for some reason the turbo needs to come off, you just replace the oil fill cap and your done. I'm betting this alone will cost close to $100.00, I'll keep looking for one thats used, of being blown out at a great price. If I can't find one cheap, then hole in the valve cover it is!
Here's a pic.

 

[dropdtop]

Why not drill and tap the oil pan just like Vortech makes the mustang guys...

My prob with the oil cap thing is the PCV tube also connects there possibly causing oil vapors to end up in the TB/Tube