Weird possible ABS/ Brake issue

[dersch6221992]

i dont know if this is the right section but here it goes.

this has been a problem with my 2000 mountaineer for over a year now. it seems at only low sleeps 15mph or less when i turn the wheel to the right (it rarely does it to the left) my brakes "lock up" the pedal starts to do the ABS pulsating and make that noise. which okay great right? well the problem is this usually gives the truck about 5-10 seconds of free flow which is scary cause i cant brake at this point.

the most common place it happens is when pulling into a parking space. i go straight then turn in just a smidge and brake then it does it. im guessing it has to be an ABS issue? brakes are pretty new and it still did it a while ago when i replaced pads/ rotors. so what do you yall think?
it also did it tonight when i pulled up at an intersection and i almost went into traffic

any advice? im just scared trucks going to completely give out on me.

 

[Sogsnakebite]

mine started doing this last year replaced the abs sensor on the one side fixed it would only happen at super low speeds or parking

 

[dersch6221992]

yea! how exactly did you replace the sensor? i also went to stop at a stop sign going straight and it did that and then kind of jerked to a stop...

 

[Sogsnakebite]

the sensor hooks up under the rad area just follow the cable back to the wheel hub theres 3 or 4 plastic clips and one bolt holding it onto the bearing hub. when you remove the sensor clean the hole it sits inside make sure it didnt leave the rubber sleeve off of the sensor in the hole.

i was lucky i knew which side was causing it so i only had to replace the one side

 

[dersch6221992]

the sensor hooks up under the rad area just follow the cable back to the wheel hub theres 3 or 4 plastic clips and one bolt holding it onto the bearing hub. when you remove the sensor clean the hole it sits inside make sure it didnt leave the rubber sleeve off of the sensor in the hole.

i was lucky i knew which side was causing it so i only had to replace the one side

thanks, i may look into doing this cause its making me nervous.

 

[Sogsnakebite]

yeah mine scared the crap out of me when it happened at an intersection its a simple repair if its an abs sensor issue

 

[DjDom]

the sensor hooks up under the rad area just follow the cable back to the wheel hub theres 3 or 4 plastic clips and one bolt holding it onto the bearing hub. when you remove the sensor clean the hole it sits inside make sure it didnt leave the rubber sleeve off of the sensor in the hole.

i was lucky i knew which side was causing it so i only had to replace the one side

Hold on, it's not that easy..
Don't you have to replace the entire hub in a 4x4 if the sensor goes bad?
How'd you get the sensor out of the front hub assembly?

 

[corkey]

sensors are bolted on, easy to change them,,

unless you got the cheapie hubs that the sensor is riveted on to,,

 

[dersch6221992]

sensors are bolted on, easy to change them,,

unless you got the cheapie hubs that the sensor is riveted on to,,

hubs are still stock... i will probably get to this in march when i go to my dads houses heated garage

 

[Sogsnakebite]

theu are easy to get out but they are prone to leaving the old sensors rubber sleeve inside the hub so need to dig that out and clean the hole other than that easy job

 

[dersch6221992]

theu are easy to get out but they are prone to leaving the old sensors rubber sleeve inside the hub so need to dig that out and clean the hole other than that easy job

Sounds good. Thanks guys

 

[Turdle]

Headsup.

The wheel bearing might be loose, allowing the tone ring to wobble in turns.

ABS light intermittent like this is a sure sign of bad bearing. Jack the wheel up, grab it at the top and bottom, then wiggle hard. The wheel should be rock solid with no movement at all.

If it does move, the wheel bearing is shot, unsafe to drive. You will get a new sensor with the new hub.

This also could cause an alignment rack issue. Bad bearings will show negative camber.

 

[dersch6221992]

theu are easy to get out but they are prone to leaving the old sensors rubber sleeve inside the hub so need to dig that out and clean the hole other than that easy job

Sounds good. Thanks guys

 

[dersch6221992]

Headsup.

The wheel bearing might be loose, allowing the tone ring to wobble in turns.

ABS light intermittent like this is a sure sign of bad bearing. Jack the wheel up, grab it at the top and bottom, then wiggle hard. The wheel should be rock solid with no movement at all.

If it does move, the wheel bearing is shot, unsafe to drive. You will get a new sensor with the new hub.

This also could cause an alignment rack issue. Bad bearings will show negative camber.

just saw this turdle. thanks for the heads up. i will have to do that later. when i took it to the shop for an alignment after UCA/ ball joints and TT/shackles they said that only the UCA were bad never mentioned hub, and they were adiment about not doing it till that was fixed. and my friend who use to be a mechanic shook it and looked at everything and said it checked out.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1192325&cc=1363991 is this the right part? it looks like it but can not tell.

 

[Sogsnakebite]

that looks right

 

[dersch6221992]

Okay one last question hopefully you see this.
Called some auto parts stores today most don't carry it???? But the one store has a new.hub assembly that comes with the sensor for $70.00 a piece.
1. I have 150k on the truck original hubs and just replaced some really bad upper ball joints. Is it worth replacing? Rock auto wanted $30 a piece for just sensor. Plus someone above mentioned it could be a hub...
2. How difficult are we talking for changing out hubs on a 2nd Gen?

 

[Turdle]

150k on original hubs is pushing it IMO. I know it is easy for us to spend your money, but in this case I would like to prevent you from going through all this again soon.

You really should try to find Timkin brand hubs, if not Ford hubs. Inexpensive units bearings are usually inferior quality. Since the weight of the vehicle is supported by them, it really isn't a part to skimp on.

Timkin SP450200 is the part number to look for.

found it here, 105.XX shipped.

http://www.stockwiseauto.com/produc...rce/googleps?gclid=CI_vuLb1wrUCFQ3znAodlDoAVQ


True, this adds 70.00 to the pair. The weight of the truck is supported by these. If they fail, all kinds of bad things can happen. Timkin seems to be the trusted bearings.

 

[Turdle]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1499806

 

[dersch6221992]

thanks turdle! i think i will do the more expensive ones plus they have warranty

 

[dersch6221992]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119335&cc=1363991 $102.00 at rockauto... only 12 mo warranty but are these them?