which powerplant?

[seth247]

Very true low rpm torque is my goal. What are the good ways for raising the compression onthe 5.0. Unfortunatley I don't know near as much about it as I do the 4.0

And would higher compression be friendly to my forced induction plans?

Ive been reading up on the bbk and it seams the main objection to it is that you can get the same flow for cheaper. But personally I'll pay it just for the look! Maybe I'll start off with the explorer intake and get the bbk once I win that lottery.

Thanks for the help guys I haven't found my motor yet but I'm holding off for more money right now.

As for settig a budget. Well this motor is gonna be in my garage for a LONG time. The budget is pretty much whatever it takes to get it exactly how I want it.

Not that I won't be spending wisely but if I have to save another month to get exactly the part I want thats what I'll do.

 

[seth247]

and who said anything about not going to the strip?

This won't be my daily driver forever and when it gets retired to special duty it will certainly see plenty of draging.

 

[CDW6212R]

That helps you, to say that it will see boost, and part time use. If you will really get to 10psi or more than the stock 9:1 compression is best. If you can hold it down below 9psi than you could use more compression. I've got a 9.65:1 347 coming, it should not see more than 9psi, I want 8-9 pounds of boost. Much higher boost can also demand a better block, as in $2000 extra. It may be best to start with a light boost combination, and work out the other parts before going for more.

The Explorer intake will flow about as much as you need for 5000-5500rpm use, given a ported lower. The BBK intake is great looking, but it's rpm band is similar. I think its goal was a broader torque curve in the same 2000-6000rpm range. It may do that very well, waiting till later is easy to do. The Explorer lower is a GT40 and other than the IAT sensor not being there, it bolts to any Mustang 302(easy to sell).

 

[seth247]

Your right I think I'll keep the boost light and bump up the compression.

Is there any particular reason you went with 9.65 instead of strait 10:1?

I'm planning on turbo charging the 4.0 and then using that same setup on the 5L once it gets in. Then once it gets retired to weekend duty I'll start looking into superchargers.

Mainly I want to explore the options on turbo charging as it seams cheaper than super's.

I want to get a cheap turbo off of ebay and see what I can do with it as an experiment for forum members. gonna do it remote mount like the STS stuff

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think the superchargers are expensive because they are mostly a bolt in kit. Turbos start to get expensive with all the add ons and machine, and fab work, and trial and error.

 

[CDW6212R]

Turbos are almost always more. Due to the rarity of kits for these trucks, the cost is related more to the fabrication needed, and any parts/labor deals you come up with.

I asked about the most compression I should run with the intended 8-9psi. The suggestions I received were basically what I was thinking, one came from my cam designer Jay Allen. The goal then was 9.5:1 to 9.8:1, and my talk with the engine builder came up with the 9.65 as the highest I could get with the available pistons and rods. With more money and even more special pistons, I could have achieved any compression ratio. The 9.65 falls right in the range that I wanted, so that's what I settled on. As you push the compression even higher, the PCM tuning becomes more critical, a does the camshaft, and boost control. This should do well normally aspirated for now, and hopefully I will get some boost later.

 

[seth247]

nice man. That 347 sounds great. Look forward to following the install.

I was planning on doing all the work on the turbo myself with some intercooler pipe off of ebay. And having a local shop do the exhaust work sincerhey gave me a great deal on my exhaust I want to throw them some more buisiness.

I'm planning on stikin the turbo under the car were the cats are maybe. And running intercooloer tubing to it and back. Try to keep it as cheap as possible and just get a few psi to help this poor 4.0 breath.

Hopefully I'll keep the expense under 6-700$ so any one in here can get that little extra top end.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hunt for the trucks of James and Jake, they both have turbos on their SOHC V6 Sports. You can learn a bunch from their examples.

 

[seth247]

well ive been lookin at heads and I think I'll take your advice and keep the gt40p's. This isn't gonna be a 10 second car.

So my focus has moved to valve train. Just making a list of stuff. What should I look for on bumpsticks? Biggest lift? longest duration? I know that there's a point where alot is Too much but what do you think?

What about springs? Rockers? Pushrods?

Am I correct in assuming that this Is a roller lifter engine? Not hydraulic.

 

[CDW6212R]

These are like all roller 302's, hydraulic roller cams/lifters.

If you are not going to sink a ton into bigger heads cubic inches and high dollar parts, concentrate on other things.

Roller rockers are a waste of money for a stock rpm engine, save the $150-$300 and spend that on a custom camshaft. The rockers might get you 5hp at redline, and the cam will get you maybe 20hp across the power band.

Spend the money on the best power items, for your budget. The camshaft is very important, rebuilding the longblock is also. If you can do that with all of the outside stuff, that will be a good start. See what that will cost, add in the trans and other little things that are part of a swap, then see what is left for other upgrades.

 

[seth247]

Ok to recap i need to look for a late '97-98 5.0 explorer/mounty. With the gt40p. Which has staggered round intake runners right?

How do I get around the returnless fuel system? What is pats? What otherporblems will I run into?

 

[techieman33]

Ok to recap i need to look for a late '97-98 5.0 explorer/mounty. With the gt40p. Which has staggered round intake runners right?

How do I get around the returnless fuel system? What is pats? What otherporblems will I run into?

pats is the security system (chip in the key) it shouldn't be to much of a problem for you since it can be disabled with a computer tune.

 

[CDW6212R]

There are enough parts sources that all of the Explorer 302's can be used. Starting with a wiring harness and PCM from 96/97 gets the PATS out of the way to start with. If you get a 99-01 engine, finding a 96-98 set of fuel rails is no big problem. The GT40 heads are very good heads, as are the GT40P's, I would take either.

Worry more about finding a complete engine/trans with front dress, wiring, and PCM, for a good price.

 

[seth247]

Yep. Thanks guys.

I thought about stroking but all the kits are too expensive for me to justify. I guess I'll just bore it out and rebuild the whole thing with new bearings and a full gasket set while gasket matching.

How far do you suggest I bore? I was thinkin just .30 over. Don't want to thinthe walls too much.

Should i get the gt40p's ported?

I was also gonna have the rotating assembly balanced with the new rods.

Should I swap in a new forged crank? What is the stock made of?

Any thing else you guys suggest that I've forgotten?

Thanks

 

[seth247]

what the news on your 347?

 

[CDW6212R]

what the news on your 347?

I haven't heard from him still, and he doesn't answer the phone most of the time. I expect that when I do get to him(I'll email today), he'll be done and want shipping company suggestions.

For your engine the stock parts are very good for normal use. The hypereutectic pistons are not best for boost, NOS, or really hard use. Changing the pistons and upgrading with best gaskets and machine work will do for basic rebuilding. If you will push the engine beyond the stock or basic bolt on levels, then aftermarket crank/rods/pistons are the next level. The cheapest stroker kits are under $750 I think, and a custom cam at about $300 is wise for any real change of compression or displacement.

Plan a budget that covers all of the same exterior items that will need replacing. You can do basic price checks for machine work and have an idea of what a good rebuild will cost.

BTW, if you do look at a stroker, consult with a machine shop first about balancing. Almost all(likely all) stroker cranks will be 28oz. balanced, and the stock balancer is 50oz. Some people have managed to get the mix of parts balanced that way, I chose to have a custom balancer made from a stock 28oz. unit, about $330. I don't know how well the others have done with their special balancing using the stock balancers, it's a hard balancing process. Most machine shops will not do it. Regards,

 

[Turdle]

Yep. Thanks guys.

I thought about stroking but all the kits are too expensive for me to justify. I guess I'll just bore it out and rebuild the whole thing with new bearings and a full gasket set while gasket matching.

How far do you suggest I bore? I was thinkin just .30 over. Don't want to thinthe walls too much.

Should i get the gt40p's ported?

I was also gonna have the rotating assembly balanced with the new rods.

Should I swap in a new forged crank? What is the stock made of?

Any thing else you guys suggest that I've forgotten?

Thanks

If you are considering forged internal parts-please re consider the stroker combo. You'll get more torque for the same amount of fuel-
greater piston speed at the same vehicle speed = better economy.

Think of it like moving your hand farther out on a wrench-the same applies with .4" more stroke.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well said, that is what I've hinted at, but the cost side does amount to over $1000 more with tuning.

 

[seth247]

yeah I love the advantages of stroking but cost is high.

Im still considering it though.

 

[seth247]

ok after considering I am gonna spend a grand on intervals anyway, a stroker is in the mix.

I'm thinkin 331 cause the 347 kits interfere with the oil control on the pistons correct.

What's the stock crank made out of?
What should I get?

Is nodular iron good?

Cast?